What To Do When Your Horse Gets Excited

buck
Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

As riders, we need to decipher between which response should be most beneficial in the various situations we find ourselves. Ideally, we would train both ourselves and our horses to create conditions where problems never happen in the first place.

However, we know that especially in horse riding, unforeseeable events occur. We need to be prepared with several different tools, so that we are prepared for most scenarios.

Please note: the assumption here is that there are no tack or otherwise physical or mental discomfort producing the unwanted behavior. 

* Safety first! As per John Lyons, here are three rules to live by to keep you and your horse safe through any training session:

- You can't get hurt.

- Your horse can't get hurt.

- The horse is better at the end of the training session than at the beginning.

Assuming all those parameters are in place, here are some suggestions on how to train your horse through the rough times:

1. Stay On

It's often tempting to bail when your horse starts bouncing around and forgetting about your aids. Assuming you are safe enough, do your best to stick through it. Always err on the side of safety and do get off if you feel that you're safer on the ground - but then do some ground work that stays on the same topic as what you were doing under saddle.

Better yet, get someone to help you out, if possible. You could have a ground person walk near your horse to calm him down, or put you on a lunge line to help make better conditions for you to work through any problems. Getting off might reinforce your horse's behavior. Instead, ride through his exuberance to let him know that you are still there at the end of it. As soon as you have good enough balance, go right back to what you were doing, without any indication of emotional upheaval on your part. 

2. Stay Cool

Nothing screams 'not leader' more than losing control of your emotions. Assuming that the horse is already in a mental conundrum, getting mad/even/scared/tense will only feed his confusion and result in more of the same. Be calm, ride it out and then get back to the topic at hand.

3. Ask Again

Some horses are over-eager to the point of getting worked up when something new or challenging is presented to them. In this case, it is wise to just quiet your aids until the horse settles down. When you think the horse can respond to you, simply ask again. Stay on topic and don't waver when your horse spots the horse-eating monster in the corner of the arena. Wait through the next confusions and then ask again. Staying calm and consistent can help many a horse become more reliant on you as the herd leader.

4. Change the Topic

Sometimes it is easier to completely change the topic. If you are asking for more throughness and you meet even more resistance, skip the forward and go to a  lateral exercise. Asking for something different often gives the horse a different feel and something new to focus on.

5. Go Forward

Bucking/rearing/side stepping... they all start with a lack of 'forward'. If you allow the horse to stop his legs (even momentarily), you will effectively be asking for him to get creative. If at all possible, teach your horse to respond to moving his legs when you ask him to, so that when you're in a bind, the muscle memory is already in place and will overtake the mind. Just move. It may resolve many situations before they even have a chance to develop.

6. Focus on Straightness

When things start falling apart, the first thing to go is the horse's straightness. Although it seems that the horse loses straightness as an avoidance strategy, the resulting imbalance is often disconcerting for horses. Do your best to encourage the horse to step underneath his body, staying straight even if on a turn. Keep the shoulders in the body and the hips in line with the shoulders.




7. Be Prepared to Stay For the Long Haul

This is when stubborness is useful. Sometimes, you have to demonstrate to the horse that you will stick with the program regardless of how long it takes to achieve some level of calmness.

8. Finish As Soon As You Get A "Yes"

Other times, or when you are able to settle your horse, quitting while you're ahead may be just the ticket. Be sure to always finish on a good note - when the horse is calm and after even one step in the right direction.

There is no one-size-fits-all in riding. Though we'd love to have that perfectly compliant horse all the time, the reality is that even the sweetest horse finds something to say once in a while. If you know your horse well enough, you can get through the dicey situations in a way that helps you reach your training goals sooner than later.

Your turn: What do you do when your ride isn't going exactly as planned?

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

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Goal Setting For The Equestrian
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⭐Now is the time to re-evaluate your goals and path to riding success!⭐
If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look our Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.
Included in the book:
➡design your overarching goals
➡long- and short-term planning,
➡debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
➡reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
➡sample goals and pages
The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.

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Why You Should Ride the Left Side of Your Horse Going Right

Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography
Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

When you ride your horse, do you notice if your horse is stiff to one side? Like people, most horses have a dominant and non-dominant side.

Funny enough, the side that the horse feels stiffest on is his stronger side.

For the purpose of examples below, we will assume our horse is stiff going to the left.

Feel the Different Sides

People often refer to them as the stiff side and the hollow side. The stiff side feels just like the description - there is more tension in the body. The horse's jaw and poll is tighter and more resistant. The body might feel like one giant slab of plywood!

The horse tends to lean into the stiffer side, falling into a circle or making tight and abrupt turns. You might think that the horse disregards the aids more to the stiff side.

On the other hand, the hollow side often feels like there is no resistance. You have to work to maintain contact on the hollow side because the horse has a tendency to give in to any pressure so deeply that there is no weight on your reins or legs.

When moving in the direction of the hollow side, the horse will want to drift to the outside, often bent (or over bent) in the direction of movement.

Three Common Causes of Stiffness

1. Left or Right Handed?

It might seem counter-intuitive to think that the right-handed horse is stiffer to the left side. But the right-handed horse is stronger in the right hind leg. Therefore, the horse will be stronger moving to the left (ie when the right hind is working on the outside of the body). When moving to the left direction, he can brace easier, support our weight easier, and balance better. He will also usually have an easier time picking up the left lead.

If the horse is right-dominant, he will generally be stronger moving to the left and therefore have an easier time resisting your aids! Surprisingly, although the tension is there, most movements will feel stronger and more coordinated going left.

2. Uneven Muscle Development?

Another cause of stiffness may be due to contracted muscling on one side of the body.

The horse that is stiff to the left will be contracted in the muscles of the right side of the body. However, the muscles on his left side will be over stretched. That is why he will want to move overbent to the right. It is simply easier for the horse.

3. How About the Rider?

Let's not forget the rider in the equation. Some horses travel stiffly to one side because their rider is contracted to one side. Do you collapse easily on your left side? Many right-handed people do. Many of us pull back with our left hand and push our right side forward. Needless to say, our one-sided-ness often starts at the seat. If your seat is lopsided to the left, you will invariably and unknowingly be affecting your horse's ability to move correctly.

Regardless of the reason for the stiffness, all stiffness is demonstrated through crookedness.

Obsess Over Straightness

Sometimes, it's ok to be a little obsessive. You can never overdo straightening your horse.

Like so many other components of riding such as developing an effective seat or learning a true half-halt, developing straightness in your horse will take years to accomplish. Each time you think you are on the right track, you will discover yet another "problem" that needs to be mastered in order to encourage true ambidextrous movement.




Work the stiff side in BOTH directions.

Most of us work with what we have. If the horse is moving to the right, we work the right side of the horse. We know we should bend into the direction of movement, and therefore, we apply our inside aids and ask for the bend to the right.

What we may not realize right away is that due to lack of straightness, the horse is already bent to the right.

In order to help straighten the horse (and elongate the muscles on the right, and help the horse bear more weight on the left hind leg), we need to work on the left side going right. In other words, we need to apply our left aids to help keep the horse straight when he wants to hollow to the right. This will also help us maintain better contact with our inside aids.

When you have a horse that is stiff on one side, ride that side in both directions. (Click here to tweet that if you agree.)

Going Right

Explore with putting more weight into your left seat bone. Ask for a mild left bend (which will only result in straightness) starting from your seat.

Keep a straighter and possibly stronger left rein. Keep a more supportive left leg on the horse - either behind the girth to prevent the hind end from drifting out, or at the girth to keep a straighter rib cage. Maintain contact with your right rein - even if your horse wants to bend in so deeply that he can completely eliminate the contact.

Try to keep your horse's hind legs tracking directly into the front legs. This might require a mild haunches-in so that the hips are in line with the shoulders.

It might take a very long while for your horse (and you) to develop the even muscling and strength that is required to be truly ambidextrous. However, if you address stiffness at every turn (pun intended!), you will be surprised at how much your horse can improve!

Which side is you horse stiff on? How do you address the problem?

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the new Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

Horse Listening Book 2
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https://www.horselistening.com2011/11/15/ways-to-unleash-the-power-of-your-riding-seat/

https://www.horselistening.com2012/11/21/drawing-a-circle-in-sand/

https://www.horselistening.com2012/09/15/rarely-considered-often-neglected-lunging-to-develop-the-riding-seat/

https://www.horselistening.com2012/12/11/4613/

Stop Kicking the Horse!

Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography
Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Too often, riders are determined to make their horses go with a swift kick or two (or three). At best, the horse lurches forward with arched back and raised neck, scrambling to get his legs underneath him despite being thrown to the forehand. At worst, the horse becomes resentful of the leg aid and learns to resist or even demonstrate his discomfort by kicking out, rearing or bucking.

Did you know that leg aids are used for more than just "go"? Leg aids are such an integral part of your ride that you simply can't do without them!

As you become a better rider, you will discover that the legs have so many messages to communicate other than "go". 

Talk to different riders and they'll tell you the various uses of leg aids. Here are a few examples:

1. Impulsion

The most important result coming from your leg aids is impulsion. Ideally, the lightest lower leg squeeze should communicate an increase in movement from your horse. Two legs squeezing at the same time ask for a "scoot forward", causing the horse to tuck his hind under and releas a surge of energy forward. Physiologically, the horse's hind legs should step deeper underneath the body and allow the horse to begin the process of carrying more weight in the hind end.

2. Stride Length

Ideally, a deeper reach should mean a rounder back and an increase in stride length. Paired with half-halts, the energy obtained can be redirected in many ways - to a longitudinal stretch over the back, to a higher head and neck elevation and/or to more animated action through the entire body.

One leg can be used to create a deeper hind leg stride on that side of the horse. Theoretically, you could influence just one hind leg with the corresponding leg aid.

3. Bend

Use of one leg aid should encourage your horse to move away from that pressure. True bend (i.e. not a neck bend) should always begin at the seat, be reinforced by the leg, and then be contained with the reins.

4. Hind end position

Using your leg behind the girth should indicate that the hind end steps away from that pressure. Use of your outside leg behind the girth encourages the horse to move into a haunches in ("travers") position. Using your inside leg behind the girth is the key to the renvers (counter-bend), when the horse bends to the outside of the direction of movement.

5. Keep Moving

Two legs used at the same time could mean "keep doing what you were doing". This understanding is essential for movement such as the back-up, where the reins should be the last factor in the movement, and the legs (and seat) the first. Ideally, the horse should continue backing up without increased rein pressure until your legs soften and your seat asks for a halt.

6. Lift the Back

A gentle heel or spur lifting action underneath the rib cage should encourage the horse to lift his back. Of course, this aid is used in conjunction with the seat and hands but the legs can be an effective motivator for the horse to lift his rib cage and "round" in the movement.




7. Lateral Movement

The positioning of your inside leg at the girth and outside leg behind the girth should combine to indicate a lateral movement. Where your seat goes and how your hands finish the movement will differentiate the shoulder-fore from the shoulder-in from the leg yield from the half-pass.

With the exception of the leg yield, your legs position in a way that encourages inside bend and catch the outside hind end (from swinging out). Finally, the horse will proceed to step in the direction of movement if that is required.

Give Up On Kicking!

Kicking your horse only stuns, disturbs, imbalances, and hurts. Although kicking might be a useful way to start out for a beginning rider, once you have better balance in your seat and a more consistent contact with the bit, aim toward using your legs with more refinement.

Learn how to use your legs in the rhythm of the movement. Working against the movement only serves to irritate the horse because he simply cannot respond if the timing is out of sync with the footfalls. Good, effective leg aids work within the movement and are generally not noticeable. Great legs look like they are doing nothing at all.

In all cases, the essential thing you need to do is to keep soft, loose legs draped gently on your horse's side. In this manner, the legs are kind, responsive, clear and secure. The horse knows he can rely on the communication he is receiving from the leg aids, and with repetition, will know just what to do when!

Are there any other uses of the leg aids that I'm missing in this list? If so, please comment below!

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions.

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

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Would you like to be the rider that all horses dream of?
By following simple, useful exercises, you will be able to develop a better understanding about many topics including:
- the rider’s aids
- the use of the seat
- the half-halt
- accurate turns and circles
- transitions
- horse ownership and horse care
- goal setting for the rider
- rein lameness
… and much more!

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100,000 Thank-Yous…

Thank you

Yesterday, the blog reached 100,000 visits!

Just wanted to send out 100,000 thank-yous for commenting, liking, sharing, tweeting, following, critiquing, discussing, encouraging and especially reading. 🙂

Stay tuned for much more to come in the future! 

How to Make Horseback Riding Particularly Difficult!

We all know people who seem to try to make riding difficult on themselves - maybe without even knowing it! The problem is that these challenges won't go away on their own, no matter how hard they try to ignore them. In the end, the truth will prevail - positive or negative.

Photo credit: NBanaszak Photography
Photo credit: NBanaszak Photography

How many of the following have you seen or done yourself?

1. Don't take lessons.

... because a) they already know everything there is to know about riding, and b)  they could use that money for show fees.

2. Ignore warning signs from their horse.

It's been there for some time. Maybe their horse is showing physical signs of discomfort. Perhaps there are mental indications - ear pinning, tail swishing, hopping in the movement. Regardless of what it is, if they don't know the warning signs, they might miss the clues before they compound into something  much bigger.

3. Use poorly fitting tack - for them or their horse.

A saddle that is too wide/narrow for the horse will limit his movement and comfort. A saddle that is too small/large for the rider will affect her balance and capacity to follow the horse.

4. Ride inconsistently.

Horses need routine and consistent training to be at their best. Occasional rides just make everything harder on the horse - and the rider will know it!

5. Let the horse be the alpha while they groom before the ride.

Yes, what they do on the ground really does make a difference once they're in the saddle. If they like letting the horse know he's boss while they groom, they shouldn't be too surprised when he wants to keep telling them what to do once they've mounted. 

6. Hand feed treats without setting ground rules.

Only subordinate horses move away from their feed in the herd.  Every time a person offers food to the horse, they are putting themselves in a lower herd position. Some horses might truly believe the dynamic they set and do not differentiate once they're riding.

7. Step out of their horse's way while leading.

Again, this sends the message that they are not a herd leader. Their work will be doubly difficult once they've committed themselves to their horse's four legs.

8. React to the horse's bucks or rears emotionally.

They forget their role as trainer/teacher when their  horse misbehaves and let him set the tone of the ride. They are reactive rather than proactive.

9. Look out for the spook corner - themselves!

They let the horse know that there is definitely something to be afraid of in that corner - even if he didn't think so in the first place! 

10. Do the same thing louder - especially when they already have resistance from your horse!

More, faster, stronger, harder - the horse will give in at some point.

11. Make riding all about their own ego.

If things go well, it's because of them. If things don't go well, it's because of the horse! 

12. Do all the talking - and avoid listening!

Not knowing what the  horse is saying - good or bad - can have so many repercussions in the saddle.

The more people can correctly interpret the signals and communications the horse demonstrates, the easier they will be able to respond to situations, eventually correcting them before they arise. Of course, experience is the greatest teacher, and as we make these mistakes, we will begin to narrow down the root of riding problems. Eventually, we will know how and when to set up a situation so we can dramatically reduce the number of times we react - and develop into a proactive rider!

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More articles on similar topics:

Take the Credit, Bad AND Good: In our quest for balance (not just on the kind on the back of the horse), it is essential for us to look at our achievements from both angles.

Doing It Because It Makes You Feel Good: Have you ever done something around/with/for your horses in a “feel-good” way for YOU?

Ten Habits of Competent Riders: This is our most popular post by far. What do great riders have in common that makes them appealing to watch, steadily develop their riding skills and become role models for others to aspire to emulate?

Finding Your Comfortable Un-Comfort in Riding: Being uncomfortable is often a good place to be in riding.

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Why Would You Bother to “Scoop” Your Seat Bones?

We often talk about using our seat in horseback riding, but explaining exactly how to use the seat is not always explained in a clear manner. It's a difficult topic, but I'll take a stab at it. If nothing else, maybe the discussion here will motivate you to dive deeper into the topic with your instructor.

Scoop your seat bones
Dining room chair - how did Kitty get in the pic?

Why would you bother to learn to move the seat bones, you ask?

The seat is the most essential of all riding aids. Everything depends on the seat - your balance, your capacity to use your rein and leg aids, your coordination in following the horse's movements, even your ability to calm a nervous horse. Without a deep, effective seat, your hands and legs will never become "independent" of the torso, and thereby they will always unintentionally interfere with the horse's movement.

The topic of the seat is long and complex. Learning to use your seat effectively should take a lifetime to develop, so we will begin with just one basic aspect: how to move the seat bones.

Well, it's simple but not so easy at the beginning.

Go Grab Your Dining Room Chair and Learn to Scoop 

Do this off the horse: go grab one of those flat wooden chairs. Sit forward a bit on the edge of the chair, and work on tilting the chair forward so that it comes off its two back legs.

The action required to get the chair to tilt is a "scooping" forward of the seat bones. 

Can you tilt it with both seat bones? Can you tilt it with just one seat bone?

It may seem fairly easy to tilt the chair. Practice a bunch of times so your body can be blueprinted for the movement. Then, let's take that technique and head off to ride your horse. Now, you must scoop in the same way while the horse is moving! 🙂

On Horseback

When you are sitting on the horse, try for a moment to ignore your legs that are gently hanging on the horse's side. Keep your feet in the stirrups, but just let your legs hang and take your focus to your seat bones.

Ask the horse to walk and now, pretend that your seat bones take the place of your legs. In other words, start walking on your seat bones, in rhythm with the horse's movement. Use your seat bones as you would your legs - move them forward and backward as needed to follow the horse's stride. 

If you want to walk on your seat bones, you have to "find the feel" of how to scoop forward and up with each seat bone at the right time.

The trick is to identify which seat bone needs to move when. Scoop the left seat bone forward, then the right seat bone, then left-right-left-right and so on.

After you have tried this at the walk, try it at the sitting trot. The advantage of the trot is that it is only a two-beat movement and your seat bones can move forward together at the same moment (that you would have posted forward if you were posting). The disadvantage is that it is a quicker movement so your seat has to "scoop" forward/backward faster.




The canter has a serious scooping action. You might in fact have an easier time using your seat bones in the canter because it has a slower tempo (in general) and so you can follow easier and stay in the movement. 

If you find your seat staying in the saddle more regularly, you know you're on the right track.

If you get tired after just a few minutes of riding, you know you're definitely on the right track!

If your horse suddenly snorts and loosens through the back, you can begin to celebrate! 

Again, I know it is very difficult to explain a feel, never mind try to teach it in words. I hope this article helps you just a little in the quest for the perfect seat!

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

Horse Listening The Book
Click to learn more.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Find more about the seat and effective riding here:

https://www.horselistening.com2012/09/15/rarely-considered-often-neglected-lunging-to-develop-the-riding-seat/

https://www.horselistening.com2011/11/15/ways-to-unleash-the-power-of-your-riding-seat/

https://www.horselistening.com2012/07/18/three-ways-to-use-your-seat-in-horseback-riding/

https://www.horselistening.com2013/01/13/how-to-ride-your-excited-horse-in-5-easy-steps/

https://www.horselistening.com2012/10/27/breaking-the-cycle-it-might-not-be-what-you-did-do/

 

 

 

Luvin’ the Reader Love!

versatileblogger111

In my little world, there is only one thing almost as good as listening to horses - and that is reader love!

Horse Listening has recently been nominated for not only one, but TWO, "Versatile Blogger" awards. This award is nominated by readers (and writers) themselves (which makes it an incredibly meaningful award).

So thanks go out to:

Sparrowgrass, who has been a regular reader for some time now and has made very kind comments in the past. Her blog can be found here.

Kathryn Mattson, writer of the blog, Unbridled Bliss.

Thank you so much for considering my blog to be worthy of notice!

In receiving the Versatile Blogger Award, I must tell you seven things about myself.

1) I love all things riding and writing.

2) I own four horses, all of which have been featured in pictures on the blog.

3) An elementary school teacher in my "real life", I write only in my "spare time".

4) Horses became my LIFEstyle after I bought my first horse at the age of 21. Over the years, I have been a boarder, student, instructor, trainer, breeder, and barn manager. I've competed in competitive trail and endurance events, all sorts of Western and English performance classes, and most recently, Dressage.

5) I still have my first horse, Kayla, who just turned 31 years old and still kicks it around with the young 'uns like there's no tomorrow!

6) I believe in the saying, "The more you know, the more you know you don't know" - particularly where horses are concerned. I continue to get lessons from my own instructor regularly, although not as often as I'd like. I am keen to learn from everyone in all disciplines.

7)  I am truly amazed at the response that the blog is receiving.

Kayla Queen
Kayla Queen

Although the Versatile Blog rules ask for a list of fifteen blogs that I like to read, I have to disappoint as I regularly read only eight. 

1. Goins, Writer: Jeff Goins writes about all things writing, and even more about just life in general.

2. The Write Practice: This is a community of writers and the subject is writing - skills, techniques, styles, even word studies. And yes, I do practice (as in, post some pieces there) but not as often as I should.

3. MindBodyGreen: This site has never-ending posts about everything and anything to do with health: healthy eating, exercise, yoga, meditation, weight loss... you name it. I find myself regularly reading their well-researched topics.

4. Writability: This is a blog written by a Ava Jae, a writer. She explores all sorts of topics related to writing.

5. SnarkyRider: I go here when I want a good laugh about all things horse-related.

6. Becky Hart Horsepro: Becky Hart is a long distance rider heroine of mine. I've known of her for years and was thrilled to find her blogging her endurance riding adventures here.

7. Horse Junkies United: There are a group of writers that post for this blog. They go personally to events and write their impressions for their readers. I regularly enjoy their insights and news from equestrian events around the world.

8. Hay-Net: Although not technically a blog, this is a website FILLED with horsey blogs! I post there and read other people's blogs too.

Thanks again for reading! esma top ten

If you don't already know, Horse Listening has also been nominated in the Top Ten Best Blog list for the 2012 Equestrian Social Media Awards. If you haven't voted for us already, you still have until February 8th. Please go here and select Horse Listening in Category 17. 

Horse Listening

Don’t miss a single issue of Horse Listening! If you like what you are reading, become a subscriber and receive updates when new Horse Listening articles are published!  Your email address will not be used on any other distribution list. Subscribe to Horse Listening by Email

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Horse Listening The Book

Other awards and recognition:

Horse Listening Receives An Award!

Horse Listening Wins An Equestrian Award!

OMG! HL is a 2014 ESMA Finalist!

HL is an ESMA Top Ten Finalist!

Luvin’ the Reader Love!

Why an Active Stretch is Nothing Like a Neck-Down

Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

In the beginning, if I could get the horse to drop his head even just below the withers, I thought I was getting a beginner sort of stretch. I was so pleased that I could influence the horse enough to get him to drop his neck.

Then as time went on, and with my ever-patient instructor at my side, I realized that just getting the horse to drop his neck actually had nothing to do with getting a stretch.

Why not?

Well, that was my burning question after about a month (or more!) of neck-downs and still no real stretch!

The Passive Stretch

In reality, the passive stretch is not really a stretch. It is more of a what I now think of as a "neck-down". The catch is that many people cannot tell the difference between a passive versus an active stretch, and therefore get caught in the passive conundrum without even knowing it.

When you are new to getting your horse to stretch, you don't know what a truly active stretch feels like. Initially, it can even be a little overwhelming to watch the horse as his neck goes down, down, down, seemingly into a never-ending abyss. It can even become a little uncomfortable to feel the imbalance the neck-down may cause, since the horse does in fact fall to the forehand in a passive stretch.

The neck-down comes from the reins. You learn that if you take the contact long enough, the horse will start looking for a release. At one point, the horse will drop his head and you will release. And so - as with anything (right?) - take more contact and the horse will quickly learn to drop his head even lower. Your release at the bottom will reinforce that he did the right thing.

And then your superstar fantastic instructor tells you that you are NOT doing a stretch!

😉

Problems

After many, many more tries, you might start to discover that the problem with the passive stretch is that it is merely a posture. Similar to reaching down for grass, the horse learns to reach down for the pressure release. If the back was hollow before the neck going down, it will still be hollow. If the horse wasn't properly using his hind end, the disengagement will continue and might even become more pronounced.

At the walk, it might not be much of a problem. At the trot, you can begin to really feel the horse leaning to the forehand. If you try a neck-down at the canter, you will really know what imbalance feels like! Beware - the horse may fall to the forehand enough to slip or trip.

The Active Stretch

The active stretch is different in so many ways.




1. It starts from the hind end.  The key is that there should be movement. So without initiating impulsion from the hind end, there will be no stretch.

2. The energy travels over the top line, and because of that energy, the horse reaches forward to the bit. If the horse is being truly energetic - from the rear - he will spontaneously want to round, release the tension in the top line, and begin the stretch.

You might feel a surge of energy (I think of it as a mild whip-lash effect) which ends in the horse's desire to reach forward and down. How far he reaches forward and down depends on the depth of your release.

3. Finally, the major difference is that your release of the reins encourages the horse to reach down even more. Therefore, other than the original level of contact, there is no more taking up of rein or tightening or pulling or moving your elbows backward.

During and After the Stretch

The other major difference between the active and passive stretch is level of activity. While the horse is stretching, he is still with you. In the passive stretch, you effectively drop the horse and let go. Then, you must "take up" again (your reins, contact, energy, connection).

In the active stretch, you are still there through the whole movement. You can half-halt through your seat and reins, you can use your leg aids and you can smoothly resume the usual riding outline once the stretch is over.

The reins are not loopy, or completely released.

There is always a light, effective contact between you and your horse, regardless of where the head and neck is. 

Begin to Float

You will know when you have found the active stretch. There is simply no comparison to the neck-down. You will feel:

- the horse's energy surge

- the back actually becoming rounder and stronger

- the strides become larger and bolder

- the body loosen up, the horse become enthusiastic and calm at the same time, and just this overall buoyancy that wasn't there with the neck down.

Combine all the above and you will begin to float, equine-style!

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