Horse Listening

14 Ways to Communicate While Riding Your Horse

How do you communicate with your teammate when you ride?

Athletes from other team sports learn to communicate with each other as an essential part of their activity. Hockey, soccer, basketball, cricket - or any other game where players rely on each other - requires excellent communication between players. Regardless of the rules and the playing field (or rink), athletes coordinate with each other through voice, signals and body language. In fact, you could say that communication is the single most important factor in a team's success aside from raw talent.

Horseback riding is unique among team sports precisely because of the horse that becomes your athletic partner. The difference between other sports and ours is that we must learn to communicate to our teammate in less obvious ways.

We need to learn a language that relies on physical movement and feel - something very alien to people who don't have to interact with a 1200 pound partner. Want to improve communication with your horse? Use these "natural" aids in rhythm with the horse's movement, at the right moment within the stride, and see how you can speak in full sentences through the body.

Seat

The seat is where all riding starts. Without a stable, balanced seat, you will always have trouble staying with your horse. But more than that, you can communicate so many things through your seat that you can make your hands and reins become the icing rather than the cake.

Calves

Soft, "breathing" calves can communicate confidence and reassurance to the horse. Use a stronger calf aid to ask for bend or reinforce a two-track movement but then release again to reward and reinforce your horse's response.

Lower Back

Although the lower back is technically part of the seat, it can send distinct messages through the seat that are not necessarily connected to the buttocks. Brace with the lower back to resist the horse's forward movement, or release and follow to amplify it.

Knees

The knees deserve to have their own section here because they have their own effect on the horse's movement. Often, riders release their seat only to pinch with their knees. The resulting conflicting messages could cause the horse to hollow his back or slow down despite the seat aids. Release the knees moments at a time and see how your horse responds. If he gives you rounder, bolder movement, you know that you have been gripping too tightly with the knees. Keep them soft (but not so soft that you lose balance) and see what your horse thinks.

Thighs

The thighs have a similar action. You can grip through the thighs to resist and restrict movement or you can soften, which will allow your seat to move along with the horse. The thighs also help the rider in finding a deeper balance in the saddle by settling into the saddle. Finally, they can reinforce your bending aids so that there is contact with your horse's side from the seat, through the thigh, to the calf and foot. This is the imaginary "wall" we speak of when we want to create an aid that the horse will step away from to create the bend or lateral movements.

Shoulders

Your shoulders hold more power that you can imagine! If you lean back within the movement (ie. don't stay leaning back), you can influence your horse to shift his weight further to the hind end without jerking the bit in the horse's mouth or causing him to hollow his back.

Head

The average head weighs 10 pounds! Use your head purposely and it can also act as an aid, and influence your other aids. In general, keep your head up and eyes looking slightly ahead of your horse. If you want a bend, turn your head slightly toward the bend - but don't overturn your head or it will encourage an overbend in your body as well as your horse's!

Buttocks

Yes, these can also "talk" either in conjunction or not with the seat. Squeeze the gluteus maximus and lighten the load on your horse's back. Soften the glutes and become heavier in order to deepen your seat aid or reinforce your rhythm.

Feet

The feet factor into communication as well. Keep your feet parallel to the horse's side to follow and "breathe" along with the calves. Turn the toes out to create more of a wall especially for a lateral movement. Alternately, take the foot off to invite the horse's rib cage into that space.

Fingers

We always teach that the fingers should be closed in a soft, light fist so that the communication going to the mouth is consistent and steady. Sponging the reins can wiggle the bit in the horse's mouth and conversely, closing the fist can keep the horse from pulling the reins out of your grasp. Some moments might require a more solid feel while other moments can be "butterfly" soft. But in all cases, avoid opening and closing the fingers.

Elbows

We've spoken about the effect of the elbows before. In general, the effect of the elbows can be similar to the fingers. Keep a soft bend so that you can follow the horse's movement. Momentarily hold them on your sides to resist for a half-halt.

Eyes

The eyes deserve their own section here because they can control so many aspects of your body. If you can find your "soft eyes" (a term first taught by Sally Swift), you can communicate softness through your skull and shoulders, which then can influence the rest of your torso and aids. Use "hard eyes" when you want to abruptly influence the horse (say, during a sideways deek when you were asking for a turn) but return to soft eyes to resume going with the horse.

Breath

Many people write about the breath as it relates to horse riding. It is essential to breathe uniformly while you move with the horse. If you find that you hold your breath at times, break the pattern by singing (even under breath - no one needs to hear!). Find a fun song that you know well and sing in rhythm with your horse's movement. You'll find that your body releases without any forcing on your part.

Voice

You probably know from experience that voice can be a huge support to your body aids. If you can teach your horse certain words or sounds, you can give him a heads-up while you apply your body aids or even before. Just remember to keep it quiet if you enter the dressage ring!

*****

Of course, as we all know, there is no such thing as riding with aids separated from each other. Although you can learn to develop arms and legs independent of the seat, and we can dissect each body part to the core, the secret to riding is that everything you do is received by the horse in one moment. So it is more of a holistic exercise that involves the whole body, than moving a hand or a leg or sitting in a given position.

But by breaking down the aids, we can isolate the ones we need to develop. Then we can go back to putting it all together again - when we are on the horse's back!

Can you think of an aid to add to this collection? Please comment below.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – Book 3: Horses. Riding. Life.

In this third book of the Horse Listening Collection, Kathy Farrokhzad takes you on vivid “ride” through the three fundamental aspects of the sport: horses, riding and life. Thoughtful and practical, the tips and ideas will support your personal and riding goals so you’ll establish an even better relationship with your horse.

40 chapters (196 pages) take the reader through an introspective journey designed to ultimately benefit not only the rider, but the horse. Learn about:

horse ownership and horse care
the theory behind the riding strategies
goal setting for the rider
specific rider skills

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Where Does Your Half-Halt Start? Here Are Four Suggestions

The term "half-halt" is used in the English riding disciplines, and the Western folks call it a "check". In both cases and regardless of bit type and rein length, the feeling that goes through your body is the same. Because under most circumstances, the half-halt shouldn't start from your hands.

What it's not:

- a jerk

- a strong and steady pullback

- a taking up of rein followed by a full drop of rein

- a sideways movement of the reins either left or right or both

- a turning of the wrists downward

Technically, it's not something done by the hand. Although the hand certainly plays a role in the end of the sequence of aids, it shouldn't be where the aids begin. And it can't be active through the beginning, middle and end of the half-halt.

Because just messing around in the horse's mouth isn't where the riding's at! (Click here to tweet if you agree)

The Whole Body Half-Halt

Good riders ride from the body.

They use their seat, their torso, their abs, their legs. They stay tall and supple in their position, and rather than allowing the horse to carry their weight in the mouth (through an unreleasing rein aid), they influence their horse through every other aid possible. The hands become the icing on the cake after the body has done the talking.

In all the cases below, the hands strive to do nothing but stay lightly closed and steady. They should take up the rein contact so that the horse can feel some pressure, but they don't use pressure to cause pain in the mouth. Instead, they work with the torso to send one collaborative message to the horse. The elbows should be on the body, softly bent and allowing or resisting as needed. The rein and the bit in the horse's mouth should be the last part of the aid sequence.

Since we've already talked incessantly about the half-halt, go here to find out what it is and here to figure out how to say "go" and "no" at almost the same moment.

Before we can talk about how to do the half-halt itself, be sure that you do, in fact, have some "go". You can't use any of the aids below if there is no energy forward to start with. So first, "go".

Then, let's take a closer look at where the half-halt actually originates.

1. The Seat

Most half-halts will originate at the seat. This is the area that is in direct contact with the saddle, and the root of our balance and position. By resisting the horse's movement through your seat, you will bring the horse's energy and weight more to his hind end and therefore off his forehand.

So as he goes along, you can either flow along (release) or resist (brace) to stop his forward (and maybe downward) energy. You can tighten through your legs, your thighs and "grip" more with your rear end (!!).

In any case, the horse will feel this through the saddle. His response will come from his back rather than his mouth. Beware of using too strong a seat and stifling the horse's flow of energy. You want to resist for a few strides, in rhythm with the horse's movement, and then release.

2. The Lower Back

You can focus your attention a little higher in your back, to the lumbar area. Rather than gripping with your seat, your back does most of the resisting. In making a slight backward motion in rhythm with your horse's strides, the lower back can send a softer, less demanding half-halt.

Use this starting point for a "ballerina" horse - the one that doesn't need much input and responds quickly and honestly.

3. The Upper Back

This half-halt helps the horse lift the front end more than the others. If you begin your aid from just behind your shoulder blades, you can influence the horse's head height and the amount of weight he is putting on his front legs.

Use this starting point for the "rooters" - the horses that grab the bit and plow down to the ground. It gives you a nice alternative to just slamming the horse in the mouth with the bit. This way, he learns to actually rebalance himself rather than having to deal with pain in his mouth.

4. The Hands

Did I just say that the half-halt shouldn't start at the hands? Well, there might be one time when you can use just finger strength (although your arms are still part of your torso as you move along with your horse).

If your horse is already on your aids, and he feels soft and supple and is confidently moving along, you might want to just not stop your communication with him. You might want to keep the flexion of his head, or softly touch his tongue to prepare for a transition. You might want to just continue "talking" to him so that he doesn't end up tuning you out.

Use your fingers. Keep the same lightly-closed fist, but soften and tighten your fingers within that fist. Some people call it "squeezing a sponge" because that's what it should feel like. Pay close attention and see if you can literally feel the horse's tongue in your fingers.

Just remember that you can't do even this lightest of half-halts without the seat and the body. The hands must be a part of the body's communicating aids and not acting on their own.

So there you have it. I use these half-halt locations interchangeably, depending on the horse and how he feels. I find it helps to zero in on the specific body parts so that you can intentionally send the message you want to send.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

From the book:

"There are many reasons why we enjoy riding horses. Maybe one of the most appealing facets of riding is the sense of freedom: freedom from our own limitations, freedom from gravity, freedom to (literally) roam the Earth. Time stands still while we have the privilege of feeling movement from the back of our four-legged friend.

Riding gives us the place to just be.

Of course, there are other purposes too. Some of us revel in the challenge of learning the skills required to becoming a good team member of this unlikely duo. Riding is like no other sport or recreational pursuit simply because of the equine partner that must not only carry us, but also do so effortlessly and gracefully. As we develop our specific skill sets, we also grow as human beings in character, emotional maturity and mental acuity.

But there is one other motivation that drives some of us to persevere in the never-ending learning process that is horseback riding: improving the horse. As your own skills develop, you begin to realize that not only can you meet your own needs through riding, but also that you can even become an instrument of benefit for the horse."

And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.

This book is geared toward the rider:

- the rider's motivations

- the essential skills for the rider

- some specific strategies

- solutions to common problems

- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience

Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!

Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

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The Art of Slowing Your Horse’s Leg Speed Down Without Losing Energy

Many horses tend to just go faster faster when you ask for more energy. They translate leg aids to leg speed, thereby coming more to the forehand, heavier on the reins and less balanced.

We often talk about how good tempo is one of the most basic aspects of good riding. When you find the "right" tempo for your horse, you might be pleasantly surprised to discover that the balance and weight can improve with little effort on your part. Your reins lighten up. You stop feeling like you're on a roller coaster going down.

In our previous article, we talked about why you should help your horse slow the legs down. Now, let's see how you can establish a calmer, more reasonable tempo that will allow your horse to swing more through the back, stride deeper under the body and carry the rider's weight with better strength.

1. Slow Down the Legs

Sounds easy and fairly obvious. First off, just get the horse to stop the leg speed. Do this fairly quickly. In other words, don't let the horse go around the ring a few times before you start to ask him to slow down.

As soon as your horse speeds up, slow him down. It is your job to be as clear as you can be in your aids. Explain to him that your impulsion aids do not translate into leg speed. Teach him that he can accept your aids without feeling like he has to brace, go faster, or otherwise become uncomfortable.

Some horses need more convincing than others to slow down. It depends on how sure they are about running "away" from your aids - if you have been letting them run for a long time, you will have to repeat and be patient. Do as much as you need, but as little as possible to get the legs to slow down. This is the first step.

2. Accept Under Power

The next thing that usually happens is that the horse thinks that he has to stop everything. Maybe he breaks to a walk or halt. Maybe he just does this low energy, super strung out under power trot.

But there is more to it than that. Because if you just slow the legs down, you will likely lose a lot of the energy at the same time. In that case, the horse moves his legs slowly, but continues to arch his back and drop his neck because he has to. There is no energy available for him to lift his back to carry the weight of the rider.

So it isn't really only about slowing the legs.

The key to finding the horse's ideal tempo is to slow the legs while maintaining energy.

If, after you slow down the legs, you feel like you and your horse have fallen into quicksand, and each step feels like it has to drag to the next step, you know that's not what you wanted.

Here are the steps to finding energy while slowing down.

3. Gently Allow More Energy

If you soften your body and begin to move along with the horse, he will often offer more energy once he settles into the rhythm. You should just ride when he offers an increase in impulsion. Pet him lightly when you feel him take initiative.

If the horse doesn't offer, then ask in increments. When the horse goes to speed his legs, half-halt to slow down again. Ask for more energy but half-halt the speed. Do this over and over again until the horse maintains the leg speed but starts to engage through the hind end.

Keep in mind that you are part of the equation here too. If you ask for energy but then speed up your posting rate, then the horse will automatically speed up his legs to keep up. So when you ask for energy, make sure you "hover" on the forward phase of the post just a split second longer. Don't fall back to the saddle - carry your own weight down slowly enough to not disrupt the horse's speed.

4. Find the Balance Between Slow But Strong

Sometimes, the horse might slow down and not even know that he can increase his energy. This horse needs gentle encouragement to allow the energy through his body.

Other times, the horse might fluctuate between fast/slow/fast/slow. In this case, it's your job to be the metronome for the horse, and to dictate the slower leg speed after you ask for more energy. This horse might become confused because he is sure that your leg/seat aids mean faster leg speed. You have to take the time to change your "language" so that he understands that increased energy does not mean increased leg speed. This horse might need weeks of practice before he is convinced that leg speed is not what you're after.

5. Ride With Commitment

Once you find the energy, you have to ride differently. You can't just push him along and let him brace. So you have to hold your own weight, release a little more through your own back, control your post in the slower rhythm, and basically "be there" with your horse in an energy-but-not-speed feel.

It's Easier Said Than Done!

As with most things in riding, changing your internal speed, increasing your internal energy and putting it all together can be quite the challenge. Because, as with all things riding, it starts with you. But it is possible and even if you've never thought about the horse's leg speed, you can do it with some intention.

You know you're on the right track when your horse takes his first few "swinging" steps in slowness. You can feel it through the saddle, with a sudden trampoline-y feeling that many riders describe as a "swing". Maybe your horse arches his neck a bit, lifting the base of his neck and stretching over the top.

You know you're getting it when he gives you a snort, and his expression softens or his ears point softly forward.

And you're definitely there if you find your reins just got longer miraculously on their own, because the horse just rounded and let his energy travel over his topline. (In this case, gently take up the loose rein because you don't want the bit to suddenly move in the horse's mouth.)

How do you slow our horse's legs down? Let us know in the comments below.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

From the first Book:

Riding gives us the place to just be.

And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.

This book is geared toward the rider:

- the rider's motivations

- the essential skills for the rider

- some specific strategies

- solutions to common problems

- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience

Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!

Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

5 Reasons Why Most Horses Should Slow Down

trot — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Most of us face this problem at some time in our riding careers.

When you put your leg on, your horse only goes faster. Instead of lengthening his stride, or using his back better, he goes faster faster faster. You follow his lead - you post faster just to keep up. Or you ride the increasing canter speed.

It turns into a vicious cycle. He goes faster so you go faster so he goes faster. Sometimes, you might just learn to expect this and think nothing of it. Other times, you might not be happy with the increasing speed but still not know what to do about it.

If those scenes sound familiar, you might want to slow your horse down. Here's why.

1. On the Forehand

You probably notice your horse coming more to the forehand. He can't help it - his legs are moving so fast that he HAS to catch himself on the front legs in order to avoid falling. We know that horses (usually) don't literally fall just from a speed increase, but nevertheless, they do have to carry more weight on their front legs to counter the effects of gravity.

2. Stiffness

Maybe he starts leaning on the bit, getting heavier or stiffer in the jaw. You might notice his movement becoming harsher, with shorter strides that require faster leg movement. Your contact might become heavier and you notice that you have less communication with the horse through the bridle. He cannot bend laterally and there is less and less roundness in his overall outline.

3. Tripping

Maybe his movement becomes so heavy that he trips here and there. You'd like to blame it on his feet, but you know that your farrier just came out a while ago. You'd like to blame it on a physical problem, but your vet has given you the all-clear.

And still he trips.

If your horse is on his forehand, moving so quickly that he has to scramble to keep his balance, and he moves along in tension, there is a good chance that the odd trip, especially with the front feet, is happening because he simply can't finish the stride in this quick rhythm.

4. Hollow Back

It is logical that he will hollow his back in order to keep his balance. If the horse is already on the forehand, hollowing the back will allow him to counter gravity. His head will rise, the base of his neck will drop, and his bracing back will send tension through the spine. He will develop a thicker "underline" - rather than sending energy over the topline, he will muscle up the belly area, leaving a flat, unmuscled topline where the saddle sits.

5. Stress/Frantic Feeling

Not all horses display this. Some cope quite well, and just truck along with the tension peacefully and with little regard. Those horses are the ones that always have a "hay belly", regardless of season, corresponding with the unmuscled back (not the same as the obese or wormy horse).

But the more sensitive horses cannot be so quiet. They are the ones that communicate the tension: teeth grinding, dry mouths, pinned ears, wild eyes, and some even hold their breath, letting out gasps every now and then. Most of them continue to move along, obedient to the rider. However, the tell-tale signs are there, if you know what to look for.

It's hard to believe that just running fast could cause all these problems in a horse. You can probably imagine it yourself if you're a runner. What would it feel like if you had to run out of your comfortable rhythm, all the time? Can you imagine the tension that would perpetuate in your body if you had to shorten your stride length and move your legs even faster?

What To Do?

Well, the simple answer is to slow down.

The very first thing to do is to not accept the speed. Half-halt the speed and encourage your horse to slow his tempo. He may not even know that he can.

Conversely, when you put your leg on, don't let the horse speed up.

But there is more to it than that. Because if your horse just slows the legs down, he may also let all of his energy "out the back door," thereby reducing his ability to use his body effectively do that he can carry your weight.

Then all you have is slow legs on an equally tense and braced horse!

Our next post will go into more detail about how to slow the horse's legs down without losing energy.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – Book 4: 20-Minute Exercises To Add Variety To Your Riding Routine

Stop wandering round and round aimlessly!

Horse Listening Book 4 is a compilation of the best patterns that have been shared on the Horse Listening Blog. The book is divided into five sections: Warm-Ups, Left and Right, Straightness, Suppleness and Collection. Each section has specific exercises and theory based on its topic.

But there's more!

There is a Special Center Section dedicated to only Transitions - something that we can all work on throughout our riding careers. And finally, scattered throughout the book are chapters that clearly explain theory, technique and skills that can help improve the featured exercises of teach Section.

Use these 20-minute exercises!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Book Signing This Saturday!

I just realized that there are only two more days till the books signing at Bahr Saddlery! If you are already heading out to their big Anniversary Sale, or going to be in the area, be sure to drop by, say hi and get a book.

I'll be there from 9am till 4pm. I'd love to see you there!

On Slobber, Snorts and Sheath Sounds – 3 Ways to Your Horse’s Back

slobber horse — Photo Credit: J. Boesveld

Everywhere you look, people are missing out on three significant "happy horse" signs. I'm not talking about the perky-eared cute faces looking for treats, or the mutual grooming kind of affection horses share with each other. This time, I'm talking about signs you can see while the horse is being ridden.

It is a fact - horses who move well and freely have a better time during the ride. They learn to look forward to their time in the saddle, and they even improve physically and mentally.

Although we often talk about the hind legs being the "engine" of good movement, it is the back of the horse that is the key to all things great in riding. Think about it - picture the horse with the swaying, supple back and you will almost always recognize the beauty and harmony depicted in the horse's overall way of going. It doesn't matter the discipline - a good back means good movement and long-term health of the horse.

Read on to find out all about slobber, snorts and sheath sounds, and how they relate to the horse's back.

Slobber

Why do some horses have a white lipstick when they're being ridden?

Some people say that slobber happens when a horse has his neck so short and the reins are so tight that he can't swallow. They argue that the horse would be able to prevent drooling if only he could open and close his mouth. Maybe his head and neck is positioned in a way that he can't swallow. Or the problem is the bit that is in his mouth; the piece of metal makes the horse unable to close the lips and swallow.

The reasons go on and on.

But surely you have seen a (maybe nervous or tense) horse ridden with no contact and/or no bit, yet still a dry mouth for an entire ride.

And quite possibly, you've seen the exact opposite:a horse lunged with no side reins or any contact whatsoever, carrying his head any which way he pleases, developing a line of foam in the corner of the mouth and around the lips.

What of the western horse being ridden in a snaffle bit (or any variation of bitless bridles) with very infrequent contact, dripping drool like the highest level dressage horse?

It's All About the Back

I've seen and ridden these horses and experienced their variations of slobber. And I've come to one conclusion: that slobber is connected not so much to the mouth, jaw or swallowing - but to the back of the horse. Develop movement from the hind end, get a nice rhythm and back swing, and presto: discover the path to slobber.

If you think about it, the root to all good in riding rests in the back. If you can encourage an elastic, round, swinging back, you know your horse is on his way to riding pleasure. Not only does he benefit from the work, chances are, he might actually be enjoying it.

However, don't stop there. It's not only the horse's back you have to consider - think about your back too. Because your back can be holding your horse's back back (did you follow that?), which results in tension all around. If your back is resistant or unmoving, the same will happen to your horse. He won't be able to carry your weight effectively, nor will he be able to let the energy flow through his topline. So freeing your back up and developing more mobility will also lead you to slobber from your horse's mouth.

Snorts

Happy horse sign number two is the snort.

Physically, the snorts happen when the horse takes a deeper breath. He might reach farther underneath the body, work straighter and therefore more through the abs or put in a sudden moment of effort. For whatever reason, he then has to take a deeper breath and then he lets it all out in a body-shaking snort. Sometimes, the snort is accompanied by a neck arching or reaching forward that might catch you off guard if you're not expecting it.

In any case, the snort is a releasing/ relaxing/ letting go of tension and yes, you might notice the horse's eye soften or his gait become more buoyant. Watch a little longer and you might see him settle in his work, find his rhythm or soften in the mouth. You might also see some accompanying slobber!

Sheath Sounds

Now this one is the clincher. Of course, if you ride a mare, you miss out on the most obvious, tell-tale sign of a tight back. In geldings, the tight back causes a tight sheath area, which then results in air movement - that sound you hear EVERY stride the horse takes.

People often say that the sound is caused by a dirty sheath area. But if you own or care for a gelding regularly, chances are that you can honestly say that the sheath has been cleaned and yet the sound continues. So what gives?

Yes, folks, it's all about the back yet again.

Try this: when you hear the sound, go for a 3-5 stride canter from the trot. Then trot again. Make sure you half-halt the trot as you come out of the canter, so that the horse doesn't just trot faster faster faster. Rather, you want to use the canter to add more impulsion to the trot. Feel for more bounce, more air time between strides. See if you can get a snort. And notice if the back starts to swing in the trot movement. Once that back starts to move, the sheath sound should reduce if not go away altogether. The more relaxed back results in a more relaxed underline (sheath area) of the horse.

Maybe it stops for a few strides. Maybe it isn't quite as loud. Or maybe it goes away altogether. If you "listen" carefully enough, you will begin to recognize a pattern to what causes the sound.

Maybe you can make it go away for only a couple of strides. Pay attention to what caused the sound to go away. Then try to duplicate it. Maybe your horse is too tense for the sound to ever go away. But give it a good try, every ride. Eventually, you might be able to make it go away just using your riding skills. And you'll know that your horse is using his back in a healthier manner.

*****

So there you have it: three sure-fire ways of knowing if your horse is actually loose in his back!

What do you think? Let us know in the comments below.

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Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Available as an eBook or paperback.

If you enjoyed this article, you might also like these ones:

How Do You Know Your Horse Is Using His Back? In the long run, our primary motivation for self-improvement in riding is for the sake of the horse’s health. We want horses that live well, staying strong and vigorous long into their old age.

In Praise of the (Horse Riding) Hand: How to develop hands that sing poetry in your horse’s mind!

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Why An Active Stretch is Nothing Like A Neck-Down: The problem with the passive stretch is that it is merely a posture.

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4 Mutual Grooming Strategies For Your Life

It's mutual grooming madness back at the ranch! Every morning, as soon as they are turned out, Roya and Cyrus take many moments not to munch on the freshly growing grass, but to say a good morning "Hi" through a wonderfully peaceful mutual grooming ritual. I imagine that they are celebrating the finally warm weather and blanket-less mornings in the summer sunshine.

After many minutes of massage, they finally wander off to graze the long growing grass in their pasture. While I watch them absorbed in their blissful morning, I think of all the different ways we could follow suit and metaphorically partake in mutual grooming through our own paths in life. Here are four ways we can mutual groom (without actually doing it)!

1. Pay It Forward

We often hear about paying it forward, and although it really is a cliche and maybe the fad of the day, the heart of the saying is valid enough to be included in our mutual grooming session. Because if, just for a moment, we could set aside our needs, desires and wills, and go ahead and do something nice/supportive/encouraging/helpful for someone, without thinking about how it should or could affect us, the world would simply be a better place.

Next time you see an opportunity, do something kind for someone - not for any personal reward, but just because the moment arises and you can.

2. Helping In A Time of Need

We can't do everything all alone. Some things just need a friend (or two) to give us the boost we need.

Have you ever watched horses start their mutual grooming? One horse inches up a little at a time and takes a little fur-fluffing tooth-touch on the other horse's wither area. This is just the invitation - do you want to scratch my back if I scratch yours? Usually, the other horse enjoys the nibble so much that they start edging their body sideways up to the first. One nibble becomes two and soon enough, they're both going at it in a sort of rhythmical exchange. First one, then the other, back and forth. In the case of my two horses, this can go on for minutes on end. If one stops, the other starts up again!

Helping others is exactly the same process. First, you ask - are you willing to give me a hand? Hopefully, they reach out to you and give you the support you need. Then, you do the same for them when necessary. It's a win-win!

Collaboration is one of the most important social skills - not only for friendship but also for every avenue of life. Next time you notice someone needs help, don't walk away. Turn to her and offer a lending hand.

3. Including Others

In general, horses that mutual groom get along well with each other. They socialize with most members of the herd, but they tend to seek the special one out when back scratching is in order. In a sense, they get a feeling of belonging in their own mini-herd.

We all have a need to feel included, especially when it comes to people we like or admire. In our hectic rush here-there-work-home-can't-pause-for-a-moment-to-catch-your-breath... stopping for a few minutes to include someone in a conversation can go a long way to making meaningful and lasting human connections. If you notice someone off on her own, invite her to join your group. Involve her in your activities. You'll be glad you did!

4. Lend a Listening Ear

I can watch horses mutual groom all day. Besides the soothing rhythm of their ministrations, I can see the interaction that goes on within the grooming. First, one horse nibbles, then the other. It goes on like a tooth-filled dance - first him, then her, then him, then her. They take turns. They contribute.

When your friend needs to say something, just stop. Look her in the eyes and give her your attention. Even just being there to lend a listening ear might make a huge difference in someone's life. If you can reach beyond listening and respond to her concerns, you can help her problem-solve through a troubled time, or give her some insight she might not have ever thought of.

When you think about it, mutual grooming can be interpreted as a significant act of generosity. If we would just take some notes from the Book of Equine, surely we could each make positive, lasting impact on other people's lives.

What does mutual grooming represent to you? Write your comment below.

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