Horse Listening

A (Not So?) Surprising Benefit of Horsin’ Around – Regularly

ride — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

This week, I learned once again all about the benefits of regular riding.

I have been making extra effort to spend enough time with the horses, whether while riding, or doing something in-hand, or even just grooming.

I did something almost every day.

And so, I was scheduled to ride Cyrus today. But the weather had plans of its own. The stunningly beautiful sun-shiny morning morphed into cloud-covered, threatening-to-rain afternoon sky. The cold front had met the warm front and we were suddenly in the middle of a weather-changing windstorm. Trees leaned left and right. Leaves flew first up ever so high, before landing on the grass. A dark puff of cloud headed over the riding ring, threatening rain.

Undeterred, I thought I'd give it a good go. If nothing else, I'd give us a chance to squeeze in a quick workout - either in saddle or not - and call it a day. I put my imaginary bubble around us and got into the saddle. As Cyrus sauntered off into a calm, soft walk, I knew I'd be able to ride today.

I expected Cyrus to spook.

I expected him to get all excited, to throw in a buck or a sidestep in response to the sound of the gusts as they whistled in our ears.

I expected him to move with tension, jigging the walk or bracing the back. Instead, he was the picture of reliability. We walked, trotted and cantered without one false step.

Turn left? OK. Canter right? No problem. Work on the pattern? What fun!

Once again, I was reminded how horses, like humans, enjoy attention.

The more I do with Cyrus, the more he wants to do. So today, although I could see the weather approaching, I didn't want to leave without a quick ride. And I was rewarded with such a great time!

I guess it goes without saying that the more we do, the better the horses become. We already know that every major goal begins with a first small step. Even if a single ride doesn't go as well as we'd hoped, each ride adds up. Assuming we follow a set plan with a sound lesson and training strategy, we can make progress step by step, day by day.

Today's fantastic ride was a delightful surprise and made me realize yet again how important it is to find a regular riding routine. Stick with the plan, and give it all you've got! Because the horses are truly worth it.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – Book 4: 20-Minute Exercises To Add Variety To Your Riding Routine

Horse Listening Book 4: 20-Minute Exercises To Add Variety To Your Riding Routine is a compilation of the best patterns that have been shared on the Horse Listening Blog. The book is divided into five sections: Warm-Ups, Left and Right, Straightness, Suppleness and Collection. Each section has specific exercises and theory based on its topic.

But there's more!

There is a Special Center Section dedicated to only Transitions - something that we can all work on throughout our riding careers. And finally, scattered throughout the book are chapters that clearly explain theory, technique and skills that can help improve the featured exercises of teach Section.

Available as an eBook or paperback.

7 Ways to Listen to Your Horse

Listening to your horse is such an important part of riding and horse ownership. In fact, the rider who is ignorant of the messages her horse sends is missing out on sometimes vital information. Knowing how to understand and correctly interpret the signs and behaviors of your horse allows you to know when something is off. The feedback you get from your horse can inform everything from general health care, to training and conditioning programs, to your horse's mental well-being.

How can you learn to listen effectively, in a way that positively affects your horse? Here are a some ideas.

1. Body Condition

When you become familiar with the way your horse looks, you will notice very small changes in your horse's body condition - even from one day to another. Does your horse's body look a little lean? Maybe it's time to increase hay or grain just a bit. Is your horse a bit rolly-poly? Cut back! How about when you notice super tight muscles? Maybe you'll be in for a bit of a wilder ride that day! Is the horse tucked in the flank area? That can be a warning for gut problems or some sort of discomfort. Consistently evaluate your horse's body condition to identify how he feels and what he needs - on a daily basis.

2. Herd Dynamics

Take a few minutes when you go to catch your horse, or alternately, when you turn him back out into the herd. How does he interact with his herd mates? Does he have any favorite pals that he spends time with regularly? How does he negotiate his way around the herd hierarchy?

Once you know what "normal" is, you will be able to tell when something just doesn't seem right. If your horse is usually a member of the crowd, finding him all alone at the back of the field might indicate that something is just not right.

3. Weather Conditions

Does your horse turn on his "inner stallion" when the temperature drops 20 degrees overnight? When you head to the barn, do you notice his that ample topline muscles dissolved overnight thanks to the chill in the air?

Then today might be the day that you should lunge him before you ride! (Trust me - I have the T-short on this one!) Or conversely, what happens to your horse with a 20 degree increase? Does he want to have nothing to do with exercise while he's sweating just standing still? Maybe this is the day you hose him off after a shorter ride and leave him inside during the highest heat of the day.

4. Distractibilty

Some days, your horse might want to do more "TV watching" than ride. Rather than respond to your aids, he's looking left/right/straight - focussing attention everywhere except where you want it! In this case, you might need to change your riding plans. Do more "pop quizzes" and be more active in your own riding. Insist on more suppleness. Slow down his leg speed if he is running. Do something different to challenge him and get his attention.

5. Body Language

Horses rely mainly on body language to communicate with each other. The signals are fairly consistent among all horses, so if you can learn to understand the behaviors, you will know exactly where you stand in your mini-herd of two.

For example, if you approach your horse and he turns his head away, you know that he isn't completely comfortable with your approach. When you notice him getting out of your space, step back and invite him back. Given enough repetition and time, your horse will learn first, that you have no aggressive intentions when you walk up to him, and second, that he can step into your personal space. This fairly simple exchange develops your horse's trust in you.

6. While Riding

After you ride the same horse for a while, you get to know how he feels under regular conditions. So if one day you get on, and all you get is tail swishes or reluctance to move forward, you know this is a sign that he isn't quite right. Maybe your gelding was running around in the field yesterday and is muscle sore now. Or maybe your mare is in heat and not able to move as well as usual. Regardless of the reason, there is no need to push a horse that you know would normally be forward moving and willing. Always consider unusual discomfort as a sign to look into the horse's physical (or mental) needs.

7. Eating Habits

What are your horse's normal eating patterns? Does he wolf his feed down, or does he pick daintily at each and every oat kernel? It is important for you to know these things, because a change in eating behavior is a huge indicator of other impending problems. When you notice something abnormal, be ready to analyze everything from the feed itself to the horse's physical health and mental well-being. Narrow it down by starting with the most obvious first.

These signs are only a few ways that you can learn to "listen" to your horse. The more time you can invest into getting to know your horse, and the more you can educate yourself about riding, horse health and body language, the more you will be able to almost literally understand about your horse. The concept of "horse listening" begins with the human. If we can improve our own knowledge and behavior, we will invariably be able to support our horses so they can be happy, healthy and active well into their old age.

How do you listen to your horse? Comment below.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

From the first book in the Horse Listening Collection: Horse Listening, The Book

"There are many reasons why we enjoy riding horses. Maybe one of the most appealing facets of riding is the sense of freedom: freedom from our own limitations, freedom from gravity, freedom to (literally) roam the Earth. Time stands still while we have the privilege of feeling movement from the back of our four-legged friend. Riding gives us the place to just be.

Of course, there are other purposes too. Some of us revel in the challenge of learning the skills required to becoming a good team member of this unlikely duo. Riding is like no other sport or recreational pursuit simply because of the equine partner that must not only carry us, but also do so effortlessly and gracefully. As we develop our specific skill sets, we also grow as human beings in character, emotional maturity and mental acuity.

But there is one other motivation that drives some of us to persevere in the never-ending learning process that is horseback riding: improving the horse. As your own skills develop, you begin to realize that not only can you meet your own needs through riding, but also that you can even become an instrument of benefit for the horse."

And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.

This book is geared toward the rider:

- the rider's motivations

- the essential skills for the rider

- some specific strategies

- solutions to common problems

- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience

Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!

Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

How to “Fill Up” Your Outside Rein for a True Neck Rein

"Use your outside rein!"

"You need a better neck rein so you can balance the horse better."

"Half-halt/check with the outside rein."

In any of these three scenarios, your instructor is letting you know that your outside rein is either not being used correctly, or it isn't active enough to be helping your horse. However, a neck rein isn't an outside rein that is simply pulled backward.

We often rely so much on our inside reins that we tend to forget the purpose and use of the outside rein. We can apply the outside rein as a direct rein, or a neck rein. Although both work to achieve better balance and communication with the horse, there are significant differences to each. Today, we will talk about why and how to create an effective neck rein.

We use the neck rein in all disciplines. Regardless of the style of riding, the neck rein can and should be used for basic communication. Using a snaffle bit, the outside rein is generally shorter and used with contact. Using a curb bit, the rein is longer and ideally used with less contact. However, in general, the neck rein is used in the same manner in all disciplines and for the same purposes.

What Is A Neck Rein?

This specific type of rein aid is identified by the way that it "wraps around" the outside of the horse's neck. In general, it sits gently along the horse's neck and is always available to act within the right moment in the horse's stride.

Why Use A Neck Rein?

The neck rein acts as a powerful communicator. Used with contact, it can help the horse maintain balance by half-halting the energy as it comes to the forehand. Too much energy left unchecked will cause the horse to fall forward onto the front legs. The neck rein can prevent the fall before it happens and help the horse maintain more weight on the hind legs. In this manner, when used at the end of a sequence of aids, the outside neck rein is a main actor in creating and maintaining collection.

Once you become more adept in using your body aids, the neck rein also can become the initiator of a turn. Rather than pulling on the inside rein, the horse learns to move away from the neck rein. So if you want to turn left, you apply the right neck rein and use your seat/leg/torso aids to indicate the direction. The horse feels the "wrapped around the neck" rein pressure and steps away from it. This way, you can limit the use of the inside rein to just maintaining flexion (so that you can see the corner of the horse's inside eye). The by-product of less inside rein is that you will not restrict the inside hind leg from reaching as far as it should to balance around the turn.

"Filling Up" the Neck Rein

I use the term filling up because the neck rein isn't about just pulling backward. In fact, the ideal situation is to hold the rein at the desired length you need for the moment, and then to "push" the horse into the rein. The horse steps toward the rein, feels the pressure and then responds.

- Use your inside aids to bend the horse.

Starting with your weight on your inside seat bone, then leg, then upper body, push the horse to the outside of the circle. As your horse gets better, and your timing gets better, your push will become lighter. But at the beginning, you may need a fair amount of pressure to be clear in what you want.

- Inside rein is for flexion.

The only thing your inside rein should do is to maintain the flexion in the horse's head - that is, to keep the horse looking to the inside of the turn. Otherwise, it should be softly fluttering in and out of contact as needed. What it shouldn't be doing is maintaining a rigid pressure on the horse's mouth.

- Maintain a steady outside rein

If you can keep your outside rein at a consistently "good" length (depending on your discipline), you will begin to feel the horse as he steps to the outside, thereby filling up the outside rein.

At this point, you will have the neck rein positioned and the horse stepping into it. Now, it is up to you to use it to your advantage. As mentioned above you can use it to rebalance the horse, or use it to initiate a turn. As your horse begins the turn, you can keep the neck rein in light contact, being fairly inactive, unless you need to as again.

Once you discover the power of the neck rein, you'll wonder how you ever rode without it. Using an effective neck rein is one more step in the direction of becoming more subtle and harmonious with your horse. Not only that, but it will also allow him to move with a straighter body and spine.

How and why do you use a neck rein? Comment below.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Buy the books for many more riding tips! Horse Listening Book Collection.

Personally signed books available! Just send me a message.

Would you like to be the rider that all horses dream of?

By following simple, useful exercises, you will be able to develop a better understanding about many topics including:

- the rider’s aids

- the use of the seat

- the half-halt

- accurate turns and circles

- transitions

- horse ownership and horse care

- goal setting for the rider

- rein lameness

… and much more!

Click here to learn more: horselistening.com/book

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Why Interrupting A Horse’s Stride Might Be Just the Ticket for Better Balance

Does your horse push down on the reins, getting heavier and heavier with every footfall? Does he fall to the forehand, seemingly oblivious to you, the rider, at the end of the reins? Maybe his legs move faster and faster, rushing through your requests and leaning heavily onto his shoulders. Maybe he communicates discomfort through pinned ears, grinding teeth or tension.

If your horse has moments where he feels like a tank running through everything in his way, don't despair. Many horses (and riders!) go through a pulling phase at some point in their development. Rest assured, he likely doesn't want to pull you around the ring. But because of either the rider or the horse or both, he ends up sending most of his weight and energy to the front legs. The result is a pulling contest between the horse and rider, the kind of which never ends in a win for anyone.

Many people fall into this riding pattern, not sure of what to do when their horse "roots down" and leans into the bit. Try interrupting his movement as one way to help him rebalance.

What Not To Do

Kick the horse on.

Although it's true that we always speak of "back to front" when it comes to energy, adding more oomph in this instance will only result in more weight coming to the forehand. This is one case where activating the hind end will only serve to be counterproductive. Keep working on establishing your horse's best rhythm, but don't let the legs go faster faster faster.

Pull harder on the reins.

While it seems that taking a stronger hold of the reins would be the most reasonable thing to do, your horse will likely be able to pull longer than you can and maybe even harder. So avoid the pulling match and look for a way to solve the balance problem instead.

Let the reins out.

Although grabbing the reins won't work, you will soon realize that a complete release of the contact won't help either. If the horse is already on the forehand, and the reins are lengthened, the horse will also lengthen in the body and then become "strung out" - a case where the hind end does not engage and the hind legs do not have the opportunity to step under the horse's body. Some horses might also stumble or fall if the rider drops the reins, especially if they are used to having someone literally holding them up.

Now, let's look at one way you can help your horse gain better balance without making a fuss. I call it an "interruption" because it helps me remember that all I want to do is stop what is happening, but not long enough to lose momentum and energy.

3 Steps to "Interrupt"

First off, don't change anything much. So avoid lengthening/shortening/speeding/slowing down. Instead, focus on improving the horse's balance using an interruption. Just like you might need to interrupt someone to get their attention, do the same with your horse. Just do it physically, through your body while you ride.

1. Do a "Full" Half-Halt

In other words, do a downward transition. If you are at trot and your horse pulls you down to the ground, lean back, sit into the saddle and make your half-halt strong and long enough to get the horse walking. If you are at canter, bring the horse to a trot.

Develop control over the horse's legs - stop them for just a moment and help the hind legs come underneath the body.

The idea here is to get the horse to use the downward transition to shift back the overall balance in the body. You want to shift your weight as well as the horse's toward the hind end. In rhythm with the stride, lean back (just slightly), half-halt through your body and hands, and interrupt your horse's stride.

But don't stop there and rest.

2. Set up better balance.

As soon as you get the downward transition, you may need to "fix" a few things. Check the horse's bend. Check that you have an outside neck rein. Allow the horse to round over the topline so that he can work toward a better contact. Make sure he is moving straight - as in, develop a shoulder-fore if necessary.

But don't stop there either!

3. Then, go right back to the original program.

This step is critical if you want your horse to begin to understand what he needs to do, and to help him find his happy place while being ridden. As soon as possible, go right back to what you were doing. If you were originally cantering around a 20-meter circle, then transition back to the canter and continue on the circle.

Do not change the program.

The only point of this technique is to interrupt the pull-down (whether caused by the horse or the rider). By transitioning down a gait, you help the horse shift his weight back and get his hind legs underneath him. But then you must go again! If not, you will end up disengaging the hind end and causing the energy to fizzle out. Stopping energy flow is never the solution to any problem.

But controlling the energy and directing it where we want is exactly what riding is all about.

If your horse lightens on the reins, you know you are on the right track,

If you feel a better uphill balance, you know that you're helping your horse develop his strength and balance.

If you discover that your horse suddenly begins to offer you the lighter contact and uphill balance while doing the movement you were working on, you know that this was exactly what you needed to do.

Just ride on, then thank your horse for his efforts.

What do you do to prevent a heavy forehand or too much pulling?

One Simple Way to Quiet Your Hands While Riding Horses

Cantering — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Well, by now, if you've been reading my articles fairly regularly, you might already know that when something is "simple" in horse riding, it isn't necessarily easy! Quieting your hands falls into this category.

What is this simple way? Well, stop using your hands!

It's pretty simple to not use your hands, but it might not be so easy to increase the use of your other aids in lieu of the hands.

If you're anything like me, and you developed the habit of controlling pretty much everything from the horse's mouth long ago, then you know how difficult it can be to reduce your reliance on your hands.

However, I'm here to tell you that it can be done. It is possible to go to your other aids and save your hands for only two things: the end of the half-halt (in order to help with re-balancing the horse) and straightness/flexion.

The hands do play a role in the half-halt. I've explained it in detail along with the other aids here and more of a basic description here.

They also can maintain the horse's straightness, especially in the shoulders, especially when you are on a bend or turn. They also can help with maintaining the flexion of the jaw (usually in the direction you are going).

Other than that...

... the hands should and can sing poetry in the horse's mouth and help him develop confidence and strength within his own movement.

The rest of the body can take over much of the in-movement communication with the horse. And this is where the difficulty comes in for some of us. It takes a quite a lot more coordination and core strength to aid your horse through your seat, legs and body. But with practice and guidance, it can be done. Only then can your horse lighten on his feet and carry you with more comfort and strength. And for the rider, there is a sense of freedom that comes along with the reduced reliance on the hands.

4 Aids to Use in Lieu of the Hands

The Seat

The rider's seat is the root of all good in horseback riding. Not only does the seat keep your balance and allow you to move in harmony with your horse, but it also sends an almost unlimited amount of communication to your horse.

Because, you see, the seat is the largest area of contact with your horse, and it sits (pun!) literally in the middle of the horse. From there, you have such an opportunity to send almost invisible signals to your horse. And he will likely respond easily just by virtue of the fact that it is easier for him to move from the middle of his body than the front.

The Weight

The use of weight is an off-shoot of the use of the seat and they work together in tandem. You could ride with a balanced seat that isn't indicating anything in terms of weight, or you can use your weight to your advantage. Let's imagine a turn - if you can weigh your inside seat bone into the turn, you will invariably help your horse turn easier and with better balance. How about a leg yield? Use your weight aid to invite your horse into the direction of the movement.

The Legs

The legs are critical for clear communication. The inside leg works on bend and keeping the inside shoulder moving straight. The outside leg is responsible for asking the hind end to stay in line with the front end (and not swing out, for example). It also is the main initiator of bends, shoulder-ins/haunches ins, canter departures and turns.

You can also "step into the stirrups" to support your seat aids, or to create a stronger leg if the horse is moving into it. The more educated you and your horse get, the more meaning you can offer through your leg aids.

The Voice

Especially at the beginning, either for a novice rider or horse, the voice can be a welcome reinforcement of the body aids. If the horse is young or relatively untrained, voice cues might not initially carry much meaning, but they can serve to calm the horse or conversely, add a little "spice" into the horse's movement (if you need increased energy).

Voice cues can be words or sounds, depending on how you want to develop them. You do not have to be loud to be effective. Use consistent voice cues and your horse will in fact be able to understand and predict what you want.

Well, there you have it! Riding with less emphasis on the hands is possible and highly recommended, not only for your pleasure, but for your horse's comfort as well. Although it might take more time than you might initially want to invest, developing your other aids to the point of clarity is well worth the effort.

Buy the book *for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book:Stepping Forward to Effective Riding***

From Horse Listening, The Book:

Riding gives us the place to just be.

And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.

This book is geared toward the rider:

- the rider's motivations

- the essential skills for the rider

- some specific strategies

- solutions to common problems

- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience

Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!

Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

9 Amazing Effects From Activating the Horse’s Back While Riding

The active back is something we all strive for regardless of our riding disciplines. In theory, we know that it is a good thing to encourage the horse to "work through his back." We know that the hollow back is detrimental in more ways than one, and we regularly continue to use our aids in a way that encourages the horse to use his back through movement.

But what exactly is the result of an active back? What does it look and feel like?

Here are some ideas. Although it is easier to feel these results in the trot, you should be able to get similar feels in the canter.

1) "Swing" Through the Back and Shoulders

When the horse uses his back, he is engaging his abdominals more, which in turn allows the legs to flow better in the movement. Through the back's lifting and falling, the horse's legs seem to be freed and suddenly, the movement becomes looser and bouncier. If you can't feel the swing in your horse's back, you might be able to see the shoulders take rounder, more lofty strides.

2) Steadier Rhythm

An active back helps to stop the staccato sewing machine trot and because of the increased swing, allows a more relaxed, purposeful rhythm. The strides feel more balanced and controlled. They tempo settles and the legs seem to have more time to come through during each stride.

3) Deeper Stride

As the rhythm settles, the hind legs are freer to reach further underneath the body. The hind end tucks under, allowing more weight to be carried toward the hind end. The horse's balance improves and perhaps even the level of your contact improves.

4) More Ground Cover

A deeper stride generally translates into increased ground cover. If you notice that the horse seems to be travelling further without moving his legs faster, you have probably lifted the horse's back.

5) Release of Tension

All this improvement in balance translates into a softness that can become a release of tension. With improved swing, the horse might stop bracing through the shoulders and then the neck and jaw. He might start breathing deeper and eventually let out a body shaking snort. At this point, if you can keep the hind end active, you will be able to influence a continued release of tension which originates in energy coming from the hind end.

6) Rounding

As the horse releases and develops a better balance, he begins to round his back. His neck arches and his poll and jaw soften - with little effort on your part. This happens as a side-effect from impulsion and subsequent release.

7) Better Lateral and Longitudinal Suppleness

Release from tension allows the horse to be more limber, both over the top-line and side to side. So if you can get the horse to engage his back, you might also discover that bending left and right becomes much easier. If you can clearly position yourself into the bend, the horse should have an easier time following your lead.

8) Soft Eyes/Ears

Don't be surprised if your horse seems to relax into a soft-eared happy place as he begins to enjoy the tension releases. If you can encourage this feeling often enough, the horse will learn to enjoy your rides and release sooner in the ride.

9) Slobber

And this is the final pièce de resistance. As we already know, slobber is connected to the swinging of the back. Even if you can't tell whether your horse is "through" and active in the back, you will certainly notice the "white lipstick" as it develops in the corners of the horse's mouth.

How to encourage the horse to lift his back

Well, this one is a little more difficult than just reading an article. You probably need feedback from your instructor to learn to really feel the active back and recognize the above signs. However, I can give you a place to begin.

Start with the leg, then seat, then half-halt combination. I know that I keep mentioning the same aids but pretty much any balancing or rebalancing starts from these aids.

Then add transitions. Start with progressive changes of gait - trot/walk/trot or trot/canter/trot. Allow the increased energy to flow over the horse's topline by moving your seat in harmony with the horse's increased impulsion. Stay in the middle gait (walk or canter) only for a few strides.

You are using the transitions for better use of the hind end, so come back to the trot within three or four strides and work with the resulting energy to improve the horse's movement. The active back happens as the energy begins to travel over the horse's topline.

If you have a chance to try this, leave us a note in the comments to let us know how it went.

On Bubbleneck and Marshmallow Contact

As you probably already know, just when you think you know something, you realize that there is so much more left to be learned. Recently, this epiphany happened to me (yet again) and this time, it was about developing a better contact. Somehow, just when I finally felt that my contact was becoming soft and supple and kind, I discovered yet another deeper level of contact that blew away what I thought I knew.

Of course, it was just a momentary tease. When these new, exhilarating feels saunter into your world, they rarely stay around long enough for you to be able to really get a good sense of what just happened. You're lucky if you can even just recognize (and maybe memorize) the feel before it flits along on its way.

And so it was that as I thought I was teaching Roya something, she ended up teaching me something right back. Please bear with me as I use these "fluffy" words to try to describe feels and visuals.

Bubbleneck

Next time you have a chance, watch some horses as they're ridden in the ring. Look at their necks as they go around. Are they "filled up" - topline muscles supple and bouncy in the rhythm of the movement? Or are they flat and almost cardboard-like, not responsive to the movement, braced and stiff and still?

Bubbleneck is a term I came up with to describe what the neck looks like when energy is flowing over the topline as the horse moves. The muscles at the top of the neck bulge and ripple under the skin, working in tandem with the rhythm of the legs.

In contrast, the braced neck shows the exact opposite - the top of the neck is thin and unmovable (and the horse likely moves stiffly left and right) and the "underneck" bulges. Over time, the muscles under the neck might overdevelop. Or, your horse might be naturally predisposed to developing an underneck, due to conformational reasons.

The key to developing a nice bubbleneck is to get the horse to lift the base of his neck. This lift allows the horse to move more freely through the shoulders and remain in better balance in the front end. Although the feel is initiated from the hind end, it's what you do with the energy in the front end that either drops the base of the neck or lifts it.

Now, some horses might have incredibly good conformation and front-end strength. They can almost always move with a bubbleneck no matter what you're doing. But many others, and especially those with a downhill conformation, will have more of a tendency to just brace, drop the base of the neck and move along on their forehand. In this case, what you do affects the horse either positively or negatively, depending on the result of your aids.

Marshmallow Contact

So while I was working on getting my horse to lift the base of the neck while moving in a steady, rhythmical and energetic trot, she suddenly took the bit and softened in every aspect. My fairly steady, fairly light contact morphed into something that I can only describe as "marshmallow."

It was soft, fluffy, malleable and yet springy like a marshmallow. It was also as crushable - so if my (always closed!) fist tightened just past the "too strong" threshold, the contact would squeeze away just like a marshmallow would collapse into itself with too much strength. And so Roya and I floated along during those precious few strides, with this marshmallow-y feeling, in balance and somehow NOT on the hands but seamlessly moving together in tandem, with much less emphasis on the hands for direction.

And then it all fell apart!

Of course, now I'm looking for both bubbleneck and marshmallow contact in all my riding, through all the movements including walk and transitions. I can find that feel much of the time, if not all of the time. But as I get better at asking for bubbleneck and allowing for marshmallow contact, Roya is having an easier time allowing it to happen.

How to Bubbleneck

Bubbleneck must come first. Because without the lifted base of the neck, the horse's balance is already affected negatively. Then "contact" can never get past a push/pull level. Here's a breakdown of what I think I'm doing.

Initiate Implusion

Squeeze with the lower legs, encouraging a higher level of impulsion and energy, and a lifting of the horse's back.

Follow With the Seat

Immediately allow the energy "through" with your seat. Encourage the horse's initiative to move forward. You might need to allow more movement than you're used to in your core and lower back to allow the horse to swing through his back.

Half-Halt

I know it always comes back to the half-halt! But you must half-halt at the end of the energy surge, or the horse will simply have too much energy and fall to the forehand.

Too little (or no) half-halt will just send the energy forward and down, putting the horse even more on the forehand and necessitating more bracing through the front end. Too much half-halt will stunt the energy and not allow it to "go through" enough, thereby stopping the hind legs from stepping under. So you have to fiddle long enough to find the just right amount of half-halt (all horses are different).

Find the Bubbleneck

Now you have to pay close attention to your feeling receptors. You can also probably see the topline muscles of the neck as they start to "bubble" (or not). Figure out what it takes for the bubbleneck to appear, and why it goes away.

Contact!

As you can establish a longer bubbleneck, you should be able to feel the change in the level of your contact. Finding marshmallow contact isn't about taking more or less pressure on the reins. It's more about creating and maintaining an ideal balance. Make sure you keep a steady contact and wait for the horse's change of balance to allow for the better contact.

Have you experienced something like this? How would you describe it? Let us know if you tried this and what the result was in the comments below.

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7 Essential Aids For An Epic Canter Transition

When you first learn to canter, it's about all you can do to get the horse to change his legs from a two-beat trot to a three-beat canter. You do pretty much anything you can to make the transition happen - lean forward, kick, kick harder, kick some more, let the reins go, use your voice....

You might feel like the canter is a huge speed-up from the trot, and when the horse finally does canter, the euphoric feeling of strength and power sends you into a rocking horse motion that just can't really be adequately described to the non-rider.

But then you get better at it.

You realize that the canter departure doesn't have to resemble a rocket launch. You develop your aids till both you and your horse look a lot more civilized - and a lot less frantic. At some point, you realize that you can trot, maintain the trot rhythm, and elegantly step into the canter. Your aids become invisible, prompting less educated onlookers to think that the horse is reading your mind.

So how exactly do you develop an epic canter transition? How do the aids become refined enough to create a smooth, balanced and active upward transition? In the following seven steps, I've tried to break down each component of the transition in order to explain the nuances that go into a split-second movement! Although it might seem a little complicated, I hope that it can describe each moment that goes into a better developed canter departure.

Once you know each part that goes into the one movement, you might be able to problem-solve your departures with your horse and focus on one or two aspects as needed.

1. It All Starts With the Seat

Well, we already know this. But how does the seat exactly play into the transition? First off, your seat should be trotting when the horse is trotting. So if you are sitting the trot, your seat bones are actually moving in the rhythm of the trot. Be sure to promote a strong but not fast rhythm - one that your horse finds easy to move in while remaining supple.

If you are posting the trot, sit the last few strides before the canter. Use your seat to draw up the horse's hind legs, asking for more impulsion.

2. Use the Inside Leg/Outside Rein

The inside leg has a very important job in this moment. Apply the whole leg (from ankle up) at the girth to ask the horse for a mild bend to prepare for the inside lead. If your horse has a tendency to lean in just before the transition, your inside leg becomes even more critical in helping the horse maintain balance by not allowing him to drop his rib cage toward the middle of the ring.

The outside rein does little except to act as a "neck rein" - the one that sits onto the horse's neck and prevents him from drifting to the outside. It also can apply the half-halt aids before and after the departure.

3. Half-Halt Preparation

Do one or two or three half-halts before the transition.

We often tend to "throw everything away" (as in, lengthen the reins, take the legs off the horse, fall to the horse's front) as we head into the gait change. Fight that impulse and instead, keep the horse together. Keep yourself together!

Falling to the forehand and trotting faster before the canter almost always ensures a low-quality canter gait. Although the horse might transition, he will likely be on the forehand, braced in his neck and jaw and hollow in his back. He will also likely fall back to the trot sooner than later, no matter what you do to keep him going because he simply can't maintain his balance.

Instead, after you ask for impulsion, half-halt the horse to balance his weight to the hind end. Keep your legs on for impulsion after the half-halt.

4. Use the Outside Leg - Ask For the Lead

The outside leg initiates the lead. Some people call it a "windshield wiper" motion: swing your lower leg behind the girth to ask for the first stride. The horse's outside hind leg should strike off into the lead as your leg reaches back.

5. Canter With Your Seat

So far, your seat should have been trotting. Now, it needs to transition. So you go from two seat bones moving in tandem with the horse in the trot, to a canter motion with the inside seat bone leading (to allow for the horse to take the inside lead). Your seat now needs to promote the canter movement - swinging back and forth thanks to your supple lower back.

Keep your shoulders fairly still by moving through your back. The swinging movement allows for the illusion of your shoulders staying still while the horse is moving.

6. Use the Half-Halt Again

Just because the horse is now in canter doesn't mean that you should stop riding! Many of us tend to freeze in our aids, opting instead to just hang on to the increased movement of the canter. Well, as soon as you have enough balance and are able, ride actively again.

Half-halt - once, twice, three times maybe - in the rhythm of the canter. This helps the horse to stay "together" after the transition. The sudden surge of energy needs to be controlled so that it doesn't just fall on the horse's shoulders and forehand.

7. Canter on!

Now all you have to do is commit to the horse's movement. Your seat should allow the movement that your horse offers, and it's your job to not let your upper body fall forward/backward/sideways while your seat follows, follows and follows (unless you do another half-halt).

* * * *
When you first start paying attention to each of these aspects of the canter transition, you might need to actually think through every part, talking your body into the necessary activity while negotiating the canter movement. But rest assured - with practice and time, things become more and more automatic, and then you can focus more on your horse's specific needs.

Though we are talking about so many steps all subdivided here, in reality, it all comes together within a few seconds - from preparation, to the request, strike-off and follow-through. Eventually, it happens so seamlessly that the departure becomes just a quick thought - one that transpires between both you and your horse in an epic, seemingly mind-reading fashion!

How do you ask your horse for the canter? Let us know if there is anything missing in the comments below.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

From the first book in the Horse Listening Collection: Horse Listening, The Book

And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.

This book is geared toward the rider:

- the rider's motivations

- the essential skills for the rider

- some specific strategies

- solutions to common problems

- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience

Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!

Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – Book 4: 20-Minute Exercises To Add Variety To Your Riding Routine

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book:Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Recent Articles:

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Recent Articles:

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Buy the book *for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book:Stepping Forward to Effective Riding***