What To Do When Your Horse Pulls

give — Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Or more accurately, what to do when he "pushes down" on the reins.

First off, let's be clear on the definition: if there is any pulling going on, it's the rider's responsibility! So even if you are convinced that the horse is the one who is pulling on the reins - either forward and down, or sideways away from a turn - the pulling is happening because you probably don't want to, or can't, let go. Or the horse is off balance and there's something you are doing, or aren't doing, to allow it to happen.

It is a good thing to look at the problem from the perspective that it is you who is pulling. Then, you can do something about it. "Pulling" is something that is absolutely under your control and something you can change if you focus on your aids and timing.

Previously, we've talked about what to do if the horse is "rooting" the reins or reaching down heavily. Here, we will discuss another idea for a similar problem.

Break It Down

There are usually four reasons for pulling.

1) The horse is on the forehand.

A horse that is moving heavy on the front legs is going to be heavy on the reins. Kinder horses learn to brace in their jaws and necks and work through the increased pressure with little complaint on their parts. Less tolerant horses might slow their legs, alter their rhythm or balk to the pressure. You might notice ear pinning, teeth grinding or tail swishing at times.

Tension appears in both the horse and rider, even if it doesn't look like there is a lot of pressure on the reins. What happens is that the rider feels increased tension on the reins and many bear that weight through their arms, shoulders and backs. The tension becomes evident in tighter, more jarring movement. You might notice your hands "bouncing" or your seat leaving the saddle. Your legs might "sway" back and forth especially in the canter.

2) The horse is moving too slow.

The slow-moving horse is often on the forehand by virtue of lack of hind end engagement. Just because he takes shorter strides, or feels less bouncy because of less movement through the body, doesn't mean that he is moving well. These horses often become dull or "feel like cardboard" especially when it comes to responding to the reins. The back might feel long and flat as does the movement.

3) The horse is moving too fast.

The opposite can be the culprit as well. Charles deKunffy has been saying this for years and reiterated it just a few weeks ago: "Speed is the enemy". In my own words, the horse that is moving too fast is automatically put to the forehand and needs to brace his way to balance (to avoid a trip or fall). Once again, the weight on the reins are increased as the horse is put in the position of having too much weight to the front.

4) The rider initiates the pulling.

This happens to all of us, especially early in our riding career (but later on as well). We might even be unaware that we are doing the pulling ourselves. We are used to doing everything with our hands, so the first thing we do is grab for more pressure. Sometimes we pull back to counter our own falling-forward weight. Sometimes we want to influence the horse using more hands and not enough body. Finally, many of us just feel more confident with more pressure than is necessary - it's just hard to let go and be responsible for our own weight and balance.

Regardless of the reason why there is pulling going on, there is a four-step sequence of aids that might help you alleviate pressure on the reins and weight on the forehand. If you feel that your main problem is #4, additional work on developing your seat and core muscles might make a huge difference as well.

Here are the aids:

1. Give - only 1 inch.

Soften your elbows just a tiny bit forward. Don't just open your fingers or let the reins out. Instead, control the rein length and actually advance both your hands forward, keeping the contact even and consistent.

Don't let the give be much more than that initially. It should be just enough to give the horse a feeling of freedom without being "thrown away" or to the forehand.

If you are working on one side of the horse on a turn, you can give only the one elbow. If you are working straight ahead, you can give both elbows.

2. Activate with your seat and legs.

Some horses go with a forward thrust of just the seat bones. Other horses might need one or both legs (depending on the problem) to support the seat. In any case, you might feel a sudden surge in energy. Be ready and go with the movement. Make sure you don't get left behind when the horse responds with increased impulsion and maybe a larger stride length. This is especially useful for the pokey horses.

3. Finish with a half-halt.

Depending on the riding problem, you might want to use a half-halt or two after the moment of activation. If you allow the horse to lurch ahead with nothing to contain the energy at the end, the horse may fall to the forehand or just speed up. Always use a half-halt to "recycle the energy" and help the horse develop a more uphill balance. This is especially important for the horses that are too fast.

4. Take the reins back.

This last step is key. The idea isn't to just lengthen the rein out a little at a time, because that will only help your horse get longer and flatter and more strung out. So after you give a little, take a little. Keep the rein length essentially the same but do the give and take mainly through your elbows. If you do give rein length, this is the time to shorten the reins again.

End with what you started, only hopefully, this time, there is less pressure because the horse was given some freedom, some "oomph" and then some re-balancing. Remember that we are always working toward consistency - that is, we don't want to lengthen the reins, shorten the reins, move left or right, etc. In our dreams, we want to do as little as possible and look as quiet as possible.

Try this over the next while and let us know how things went in the comments below.

Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

Just as with all the Horse Listening Collection Books, this book is focused on helping the rider improve for the sake of the horse. But this book goes deeper into the best training articles from the blog - horse-centered theory, strategies and ideas you can try with your own horse.

The book begins with the horse's hind end (!), considers the horse's back, moves on to rider development, and fills it all in with the fundamentals of horse riding so your horse can be:

happier in his body

happier in his "work"

better balanced all-around

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Horsey Word(s) of the Week: Ground Work

Ground Work

Noun

something that is done at an early stage and that makes later work or progress possible

____

Ground work can be art work in itself.

For most of us, ground work is a path to getting to know our horses better, without riding. There are unlimited types of ground work, starting from simple lunging to work without the rider to the "high school" movements of the classical variety.

I used significant ground work techniques when my horses were too young to ride. From just getting them used to being handled, to developing communication, to in-hand work to introduce them to the bit, to ground driving, to trailering practice, to "round penning", to walking over tarps and de-spooking - I did it all. Then before their first ride, I used lunging to get the horses moving well without a rider in the first place. We worked on developing gaits, conditioning and voice cues before I ever leaned over my horses' backs for the first time.

But that's not all I use ground work for. I've had people ask me to ride their horses for them even though they hadn't ridden in months . Though I knew the horse had been ridden in the past, I used ground work to "meet" the horse and see what he knew and how he was going to respond.

I love ground work for the excited or nervous horse. I am always cognizant of my surroundings and try to maintain a high level of safety for both myself and the horse. So if there is a horse that seems out of sorts, I go right back to ground work to settle him while allowing him to move

And finally, I have used ground work to develop myself as a rider. You can do so many things on your own two feet that replicate what you need to do on horseback, but you still have balance standing on the ground. In particular. I've explored and developed my hands and quality and feel of contact while working with the horse on the ground.

Ground work is not only for beginner horses or riders. In fact, many of the "masters" use increasingly intricate ground work exercises to develop their horses mentally and physically throughout their education. Learning the higher level movements takes time and experience and the guidance of a good instructor. Just as with anything else, becoming effective at ground work takes dedication and repetition.

What have you used ground work for? How does it complement your riding life? Comment below.

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New! Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

Available as an eBook or paperback

More Words of the Week:

Horses for Courses

Conditioned Response

Gallop

The One Answer to Most Horse Riding Problems

There are a lot of problems that can occur when riding a horse. Although they all end up looking like different issues, if you think about it carefully, you might notice that there is one common denominator. Click on the image to see a mind map of behaviors that can be improved using one back-to-basics technique, in any discipline and riding style.

Please note: ALWAYS check with your vet and other professionals first to clear out any health or tack-related concerns.

Riding_Problems (1) — Click on image to enlarge

All of these riding problems have many possible solutions and if one technique doesn't work, it is your job as the rider to find out how to approach it from a different direction. However, there is one solution that will improve if not completely resolve the issue - whether it be straightness, slowness, speed, or any of the other problems listed above.

Forward

Not the running faster kind, but the kind that allows the horse to move into strong balance. While you need to encourage the horse to move on, first from your legs and seat, you also should help the horse develop his balance through half-halts so that you don't inadvertently just push him too fast and down on his forehand.

With a combination of energy activation with your seat and legs, and well-timed half-halts, you can encourage (or allow, if your aids have been too tight) the horse to better stride underneath himself and use his own strength to balance.

A truly forward horse doesn't rush. Rather, it feels like he has all the time in the world for his legs to come through for each stride. For the observer, it appears that the horse is in animated movement but it is supremely balanced and in control of his energy.

Just by virtue of moving with energy and impulsion, he straightens out. His legs stride straight ahead. His shoulders and back swing in rhythm with his animated steps. He stops drifting because he uses both sides of his body effectively. By moving "forward", you can dramatically reduce or eliminate his balking, stopping and running backward.

The Result

He has no need to buck, rear or kick out simply because he is confidently moving ahead. The tension in his body dissipates and his ears soften. Because your aids continually give him space to move into, his jaw and poll soften and he begins to respond with increased trust in your aids. He becomes less distracted by objects or other horses and has little to be concerned about other than feeling good in his body and moving.

Suddenly, you discover that your "behind the leg" horse is maintaining his own activity and you have to learn to give him the freedom to move rather than constantly nag with your aids.

Getting There

One of the first things we teach a young horse is how to go forward. But it doesn't stop there. Developing true "forward" (not just forward as in moving ahead) is a lifelong, developmental process that we have to come back to time and again, every time we explore new movements or skills.

Moving truly forward is something you have to work on during your whole ride. It isn't a button you can just press on your horse! Not only do you have to carefully promote it in your horse, but you also have to learn to do it yourself, all the time!

Initially, it seems like an awful lot of work. You might have to become more aware of what you are doing than you have ever been. The tasks of keeping the horse going and then going with him, yourself, are challenging enough to begin with.

As time passes, you become more used to the forward feeling and so does the horse. You both will have an easier time maintaining it especially in the movements that you have mastered. But beware! Every time you learn something new, you need to develop the forward inclination all over again.

Now I'm not saying that forward is the answer to all riding problems. There is so much more to it than the few words I can write here, or anything you might be able to see on a video. But moving in a forward manner is one of the most fundamental aspects of riding.

Developing a true forward feel can only be done with a good instructor who can teach you, give you feedback and then teach you even more after you gain some mastery! But if you give it a try, you might be pleased to see the results - in any riding discipline and style. And most importantly, your horse will thank you.

How do you interpret "forward"? Please comment below.

Stop printing off the articles! Your favorite training articles are compiled in this beautifully bound paperback book. Have everything at your fingertips - this book can be taken to the barn as a quick refresher or leisurely read at home.

From Horse Listening Book 2: Forward And Round To Training Success:

"Regardless of discipline, what would be the most significant effect a rider would want to have on her horse?

We all want our horses to improve in their athletic

development, skill acquisition and connectedness. Much of our rider development and training efforts go into working toward our show or personal goals....

But the best riders aspire to do one essential thing each and every day, regardless of goals and lesson plans: they work hard to improve their horse’s way of going.

Because proper balance and weight carriage is essential to a horse’s longevity. Each and every minute of each and every ride has the potential to contribute to your horse’s health and well-being.

Or not."

The book begins with the horse's hind end (!), considers the horse's back, moves on to rider development, and fills it all in with the fundamentals of horse riding so your horse can be:

happier in his body

happier in his "work"

better balanced all-around

Click here for more information:

Available as an eBook or paperback

Horsey Word(s) of the Week

Horses for Courses

Idiom

› used for saying that it is important to choose suitable people for particular activities because everyone has different skills

_____

There is truth to the phrase, "There are horses for courses." Although in the real world, they use this expression to indicate that a job is suitable for one type of person or another, you can take it literally when referring to horses.

Pick a breed and you'll probably be able to identify the characteristics that it was designed for. Most of our present-day horses trace back to a particular purpose - whether for work, for flashiness or for speed. Some horses are high-stepping, others are great pullers, and others are designed to move over ground with a low center of gravity. I imagine that as time passes and we continue our breeding programs into this era where horses are now generally bred for rideability (recreation), there will be more commonalities between breeds than there were in the past.

My horse, Kayla Queen (now 33 years of age) is a prime example. She was my dream-come-true horse, and as a Standardbred, taught me things that horses from other breeds never could. At 14.2 hh, she could keep up with the walking stride of a 17hh warmblood horse. In fact, she outwalked most horses and therefore was always in the lead during a trail ride.

Because of her desire to "just go", she taught me to enjoy the thrill of pure movement. Her steadfast personality meant that she rarely slowed down or spooked (she would look at something and just go by) and that allowed me to become a super confident, trusting rider during my most important early riding experiences.

Best of all, she is a free-legged pacer. That means that when other horses would trot or canter, she would pace. She also sported a wonderful high-stepping trot but would switch over to pace after a certain speed.

So I learned to sit the pace, enjoy the speed, and wave buh-bye to my friends as they switched to canter just to keep up! The "course" that Kayla was made for was definitely the speed course, and so we ended up conditioning for and then competing in long distance trail rides. That was her area of strength and what she enjoyed the most.

Kayla also spent many years taking me through my rider lessons and fun shows, but her way of going was not suited for things like collected canter or flying changes. And so in her years after retiring from competitive trail, we always headed for the trails even after a ring session.

Kayla taught me all about horses for courses.

How about your horse? How is your horse suited for a particular job? Let us know in the comments below.

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horse logos 1

New! Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

Available as an eBook or paperback.

More Words of the Week:

Conditioned Response

Gallop

Horsey Word of the Week

Gallop

NOUN

[IN SINGULAR]

The fastest pace of a horse or other quadruped, with all the feet off the ground together in each stride: the horse broke into a furious gallop

____

The difference between a canter and a gallop lies in the footfalls. The canter is a three-beat gait with the outside hind being the "strike-off" leg, then a diagonal pair of footfalls landing at the same time, then the inside front leg landing before the moment of suspension.

The gallop has four beats while all four legs strike the ground separately. It also has a moment of suspension.

Race horses gallop at full speed on the track.

Our less speed-inclined horses probably rarely gallop, if at all. Most of the time, they canter bigger or faster. But in order to gallop, the footfalls actually have to change to 4 beats.

When I was younger, we had a "racing stretch" where my friends and I would head to for a fun run. It was a straight, flat quarter mile and the horses were all familiar with with the lay of the land. Some of my best memories are of the times spent on that racing stretch. We never forced the horses to run hard - just as fast as they wanted. Even then, I doubt that the horses really broke into a gallop. They just cantered merrily along until the end of the stretch and then we walked them out on the way back to the barn.

How about you? Have you ever galloped on a horse? Tell us about it in the comments below.

Want to advertise your business on Horse Listening? Click here for more info.

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New! Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

Available as an eBook or paperback.

More Words of the Week:

Conditioned Response

6 Ways to Know Your Horse is Comfortable – While Riding

Your horse is healthy and sound. You've checked the saddle. The bit and bridle fit and your horse works well in them. You've got everything you need for your horse to be comfortable while you ride.

Now the rest is up to you.

Is your horse really comfortable while you ride? If you listen carefully enough, he will tell you using his own form of communication. How can you tell? Here are six ways to gauge your horse's level of comfort - while you ride.

Snorts

This is number one. In the old days, my friends and I used to have "snorting" contests - as in, the first one to get the snorting horse was the winner. It was a fun way to really focus on our horses - and get them to work well and powerfully with looseness and comfort.

Check it out yourself. When you ride, pay close attention to when exactly your horse snorts. What is the circumstance? Sometimes, it's because he did something (like canter on) that made him breathe deeper and have opportunity to move. Sometimes, it's after a correction - for example, fixing crookedness in the horse's body with your aids. Horses always feel better when they move straight - and the snorts roll out right after it happens.

In all cases, the snorts come with deeper breaths. There is something nice about breathing - both by you and your horse!

Slobber

There is a good kind of slobber that indicates a soft jaw, an active back, and this feeling of looseness in the body that indicates comfort and relaxation in the horse's body. It's not about the bit or the nose band - it's about how the horse feels inside.

If your horse never develops a "white lipstick", there's a chance that he is tight-jawed or tense through the body. If he leans on the bit, or is resistant to your rein aids, you might need to look for ways to communicate other than just through the hands.

Use half-halts to keep your horse well balanced. Work towards using your seat more than your hands. Follow the horse's movement with your lower back when he offers impulsion. All of these skills help to develop a soft, well moving back that allows for better movement and ultimately, comfort.

Swing

A horse cannot swing if it is uncomfortable in his body (well, it is true that the best conformed horses have an easier time even when they are tense). But for most horses, tightness anywhere in the body will prevent the "bounce" - the movement feels flatter and the stride shorter. I think of it as a "cardboard back" - the rigidity resonates most in the back and I can feel the immobility and increased concussion through my seat.

I often write about an increase in "bounce" in the horse's way of going, but it's really more than that. Swing is a full-body movement, combining suspension, ground cover and looseness in the entire body. The back moves up and down in a clear, well maintained rhythm.

Floppy or "Light" Ears

You can tell a lot from looking at the ears. Perky ears are usually a sign that the horse is looking at something. Although looking around may be fine during most of your riding, the horse is externally focused. Pinned back ears are a clear sign of discomfort. Stiff, unmovable ears indicate tightness somewhere in the body.

The horse that is truly "in the zone" has different ears - they are soft and not directed at one particular focus point. The ears may flicker back and forth as they horse pays attention to you and what is around him, but they remain light and mobile. Even when the horse notices something around him, he only pays slight attention while he passes by the object.

Some horses can develop floppy ears. If you can ride your horse in comfort most of the time, you might be able to find those floppy ears! In general, horses that flop their ears in rhythm to their strides also demonstrate all the other signs discussed in this article. Full body comfort and release shows up in the ears.

Body Shape

They often say that the outside of the horse mirrors how the horse feels on the inside. So if you can encourage him to take a balanced, uphill, engaged outline, you can help him become more confident mentally as well. Conversely, the horse that moves with the hollowed back, moves in a crooked manner and carries his neck in an uncomfortable way will often be as tense and tight mentally.

The horse that moves with a round, swinging outline (that is not maintained through force but rather through tactful, educated aids) is the horse that feels good on the inside.

Confidence

In general, a happy, comfortable horse is also a confident horse. He is sure of his environment and of his rider. He moves boldly without a second thought. He has this "watch me" attitude that can't be missed.

Confidence can be seen, but it can also be felt. If you are lucky enough to ride a confident horse, you might be bolstered by his attitude. Even as you guide him along the ride, he will help you achieve your highest goals.

It is possible to develop confidence in the horse. Over the years, through repetition and positive riding experiences, your horse may change little by little until one day, you realize that he takes things in stride (pun intended!) and seems to enjoy his accomplishments as much as you do.

Let's face it. Pretty much anyone can tell a happy horse, even under saddle. He is the one that is bounding along, bright-eyed and bushy-tailed (yes, that's where the expressions come from), and just overall looks like he loves what he's doing.

And when that happens, you can't help but become infused with that same sense of enthusiasm.

How do you know your horse is comfortable while you ride? Comment below.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening Book 2 - Forward And Round To Training Success

Stop printing off the articles! Your favorite training articles are compiled in this beautifully bound paperback book. Have everything at your fingertips - this book can be taken to the barn as a quick refresher or leisurely read at home.

From the book:

"Regardless of discipline, what would be the most significant effect a rider would want to have on her horse?

We all want our horses to improve in their athletic

development, skill acquisition and connectedness. Much of our rider development and training efforts go into working toward our show or personal goals....

But the best riders aspire to do one essential thing each and every day, regardless of goals and lesson plans: they work hard to improve their horse’s way of going.

Because proper balance and weight carriage is essential to a horse’s longevity. Each and every minute of each and every ride has the potential to contribute to your horse’s health and well-being.

Or not."

The book begins with the horse's hind end (!), considers the horse's back, moves on to rider development, and fills it all in with the fundamentals of horse riding so your horse can be:

happier in his body

happier in his "work"

better balanced all-around

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Horsey Word of the Week

Conditioned Response

Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Definition:

noun, Psychology

1. a response that becomes associated with a previously unrelated stimulus as a result of pairing the stimulus with another stimulus normally yielding the response.

Here are some examples in relation to horses:

Leg Wraps = Trailer Ride

Once your horse starts trailering often enough, whether for shows or for clinics or trail rides, one of the things that happens is that your horse begins to relate shipping wraps to going on the trailer.

My mare knew right away, even without having to see the trailer. As soon as the leg wraps were on, she would be going for a ride.

Bucket Sound = Treats

You might be familiar with this one! It doesn't take long for a horse to "love" you enough to walk right up if you carry a bucket out to the gate.

Clucking Sound = Trot

(Or any alternate sound you use for each gait.) We don't often think of the theory behind this, but we are always using a conditioned response technique to encourage our horses to move from a voice aid.

Human Stepping Forward = Horse Stepping Back (or Sideways)

This is how you keep yourself safe as you stand beside a 1000-pound horse!

What other kinds of conditioned response situations can you think of, as it relates to the horse?

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horse logos 1

New! Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

Available as an eBook or paperback.

The Five Stages of a Transition

We can all use work on our transitions. I think even the most educated horse and rider can always develop better transitions. There are so many things to work on if you stop to really think about the different stages that horses and riders go through as they become more secure in their aids.

Whether you are working on upward transitions or downward, progressive or non-progressive, there are certain aspects to look for in every well executed gait change.

With young horses, you'll reward even a successful effort. Once your horse has developed enough strength and balance, you can have higher expectations. Some horse/rider combinations can go through the first three or four stages over the course of a few months. Others can take longer - it all depends on each partner. Irrespective of the time it might take to go through these stages, it's good to be aware of how transitions can progress from the basic to the more advanced.

Let's start at the beginning.

Gait Change

The first goal we have for young or untrained horses is to get the transition in the first place. At this stage, we should be working mostly on communicating that the horse's legs need to change gait when we ask for it. So if your horse does change gait, you let him know he's on the right track.

You don't really concern yourself with any bobbles or hiccups along the way. If he falls to the forehand or sideways, you accept it and help him rebalance a few strides after the transition. If he rushes into the next gait, you ride the rush and do your best to harmonize. If he throws his head up or down, you allow it as long as it isn't dangerous. He is putting effort into doing what you want and you don't want to stifle his attempts in any way.

You are only developing a method of communication at this point. Encourage him when your horse begins to understand.

Throughness

The next thing to work toward is how well your horse allows his (and your) energy to "come through" during the transition. So this is when fluidity becomes more of a factor. If you put energy in (through seat and legs), it should be transferred through the horse so that he can not only change his legs to the new gait, but also allow his hind legs to step deeper underneath his body, and his top line to round even just a little.

By allowing his energy through, the horse can begin to become more supple and less tense. At this point, doing the transition can improve all of his gaits, especially because he is becoming more "ahead of the leg" (which just means that he is able to allow his energy in the front end as in the hind end).

Make sure that you are ready for an energy surge. If your horse truly "amps up" his energy, you need to ride it, not get left behind. Go with him and teach him that it's good to reach forward, especially going into and out of a transition.

Balance

At this point, you can become more careful about your horse maintaining balance before and after the transition. In my opinion, doing this sooner in his education might cause him to become reluctant to go forward. So first make sure he is willing and confident in making the transition in the first place.

A good transition is done from the hind end. So now you can ask your horse to balance just a bit to the hind end before and after heading into the new gait. This is when effective half-halts become critical.

You can prepare for a transition with two or three half-halts (in rhythm with your horse's strides), do the transition, and then half-halt again once or twice to help the horse from falling to the forehand. So basically, you are asking for balance before the legs change and then balance again after the legs are in the new gait. As your horse becomes stronger, your balancing requests can become shorter and lighter, but you may need to be "there" for your horse in the beginning.

Precision

Once you have a forward, through and balanced transition, you can start to become really picky - and expect it to happen in a specific place. So let's say you are on the rail and you decide the transition should happen in the corner before A (this is an easy way to start with a young or inexperienced horse). So give yourself three to five strides to get the transition, while you ride through that corner.

Another time, try it coming out of a corner. So you pass A and give yourself three to five strides for the transition. Try to prevent your horse from falling in off the rail at this point - you just want a leg change without a deek or a dive or a fall to the forehand.

As your horse becomes more proficient, you can start asking at a letter. For example, pick the letter A and make your transition as your leg and shoulder passes the letter. Prepare ahead of time and then ask as you go by. Then pick another letter further down the rail for another transition. Turn it into a game and see how accurate you both can become.

Finally

This last stage is really just the icing on the cake. Once you have precision, you can really get down to working on becoming invisible. It's all well and good to be able to be effective, but you can't stop there. If you haven't already developed super quiet aids in the process, now is the time to learn to "whisper". By now, your horse is on your aids, willing and confident, round and balanced, and working with you on a moment's notice.

There really should be very little that onlookers should be able to observe. No pulling, no loss of balance, no flailing legs, no falling of the upper body, no boisterous voice command - nothing. If they watch you ride, they see nothing - except, of course, that the horse made the transition beautifully, seemingly on his own accord. Just plain, simple harmony.

Well, that is what we're all aiming for anyway. I do know it can be done, but I also know it might take some of us years to accomplish consistent, accurate, soft transitions. But isn't this why we're in it for the long haul? There is always something more to learn and another goal to reach.

What stage are you and your horse at in your transitions? Is there anything you can add to the above system? Please comment below.

Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

Available as an eBook or paperback.

From the Book:

"But the best riders aspire to do one essential thing each and every day, regardless of goals and lesson plans: they work hard to improve their horse’s way of going.
Because proper balance and weight carriage is essential to a horse’s longevity. Each and every minute of each and every ride has the potential to contribute to your horse’s health and well-being.
Or not."
Just as with all the Horse Listening Collection Books, this book is focused on helping the rider improve for the sake of the horse. But this book goes deeper into the best training articles from the blog - horse-centered theory, strategies and ideas you can try with your own horse.
The book begins with the horse's hind end (!), considers the horse's back, moves on to rider development, and fills it all in with the fundamentals of horse riding so your horse can be:

happier in his body

happier in his "work"

better balanced all-around
Available in eBook or paperback.

Horses. Riding. Life.

Author: Horse Listening

What To Do When Your Horse Pulls

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

Horsey Word(s) of the Week: Ground Work

New! Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

The One Answer to Most Horse Riding Problems

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Stop printing off the articles! Your favorite training articles are compiled in this beautifully bound paperback book. Have everything at your fingertips - this book can be taken to the barn as a quick refresher or leisurely read at home.

Horsey Word(s) of the Week

New! Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

Horsey Word of the Week

NOUN

New! Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

6 Ways to Know Your Horse is Comfortable – While Riding

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening Book 2 - Forward And Round To Training Success

Horsey Word of the Week

Conditioned Response

New! Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

The Five Stages of a Transition

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success