Horse Listening

Focus on Transitions – Week 2

Last week, we started with three forms of transitions: change of direction (bend), change of gait (walk-trot-walk) and change of circle size (20m and 10m circles). The idea was to negotiate those changes as smoothly and balanced as possible through the circle exercise.

This week, we're going to work on straight lines moving to a circle back to a straight line. In general, straight lines are even harder to do well than bends because true straightness means being equally able on both the left and right sides. Both horse and rider must become straight even on turn lines or bends, but on a straight line, lack of straightness is easily evident.

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Purpose:

Walk-Trot-Canter-Trot-Walk Transition, Straight Line to 15-m Circle, Counter Canter

Although we are still working on progressive transitions (up and down transitions that occur in order of gaits), this exercise is somewhat more challenging than Week One. You can accommodate for young/untrained horses or beginner riders as indicated at the bottom.

Goals:

Balance
Impulsion
Straight line to bend or circle
Corners
Accuracy of 15-m circle
Maintenance of rhythm through all changes

Aids:

This time, we are going to transition between all three gaits, upward and downward. See the specific aids for a walk to trot and trot to walk transition in last week's article.

I'm including a detailed analysis of the trot-canter aids as well as the canter-trot aids below. Scroll down to the exercise if you are already familiar with the trot-canter and canter-trot aids.

Trot-Canter Aids

I'm reprinting the trot to canter aids from my previous article, 7 Essential Aids For An Epic Canter Transition. I feel there is sufficient detail in this description to give you a good idea for the upward transition.

1. It All Starts With the Seat

Well, we already know this. But how does the seat exactly play into the transition? First off, your seat should be trotting when the horse is trotting. So if you are sitting the trot, your seat bones are actually moving in the rhythm of the trot. Be sure to promote a strong but not fast rhythm – one that your horse finds easy to move in while remaining supple.

If you are posting the trot, sit the last few strides before the canter. Use your seat to draw up the horse’s hind legs, asking for more impulsion.

2. Use the Inside Leg/Outside Rein

The inside leg has a very important job in this moment. Apply the whole leg (from ankle up) at the girth to ask the horse for a mild bend to prepare for the inside lead. If your horse has a tendency to lean in just before the transition, your inside leg becomes even more critical in helping the horse maintain balance by not allowing him to drop his rib cage toward the middle of the ring.

The outside rein does little except to act as a “neck rein” – the one that sits onto the horse’s neck and prevents him from drifting to the outside. It also can work during the half-halt aids before and after the departure.

3. Half Halt Preparation

Do one or two or three half-halts before the transition. We often tend to “throw everything away” (as in, lengthen the reins, take the legs off the horse, fall to the horse’s front) as we head into the gait change. Fight that impulse and instead, keep the horse together. Falling to the forehand and trotting faster before the canter almost always ensures a low-quality canter gait. Although the horse might transition, he will likely be on the forehand, braced in his neck and jaw and hollow in his back.

Instead, after you ask for impulsion, half-halt the horse to balance his weight to the hind end. Keep your legs on for impulsion.

4. Use the Outside Leg – Ask For the Lead

The outside leg initiates the lead. Some people call it a “windshield wiper” motion: swing your lower leg behind the girth to ask for the first stride. The horse’s outside hind leg should strike off into the lead as your leg reaches back.

5. Canter With Your Seat

So far, your seat should have been trotting. Now, it needs to initiate the transition. So you go from two seat bones moving in tandem with the horse in the trot, to a canter motion with the inside seat bone leading (to allow for the horse to take the inside lead). Your seat now needs to promote the canter movement – swinging back and forth thanks to your supple lower back. Keep your shoulders fairly still by moving through your back. The swinging movement allows for the illusion of your shoulders staying still while the horse is moving.

6. Use the Half-Halt Again

Just because the horse is now in canter doesn’t mean that you should stop riding! Many of us tend to freeze in our aids, opting instead to just hang on to the increased movement of the canter. Well, as soon as you have enough balance and are able, go to riding actively again.

Half-halt – once, twice, three times maybe – in the rhythm of the canter. This helps the horse to stay “together” after the transition. The sudden surge of energy needs to be controlled so that it doesn’t just fall on the horse’s shoulders and forehand.

7. Canter on!

Now all you have to do is commit to the horse’s movement. Your seat should allow the movement that your horse offers, and it’s your job to not let your upper body fall forward/backward/sideways while your seat follows, follows and follows (unless you do another half-halt).

Canter-Trot Aids

The aids for this downward transition are similar to the upward transition aids.

1. Seat

Your seat should be in canter mode at this time. However, you can use a resisting seat aid in tandem with your upcoming half-halts to prepare for the downward transition.

2. Half-Halt

This half-halt can start with the seat and be followed up with the hands if necessary. I've tried to describe the various versions of half-halts in this article, Where Does Your Half-Halt Start? Here Are Four Suggestions. Use your leg aids at this moment to help keep your horse's energy flowing forward even through the downward change of gait.

3. Trot

Now, your seat should be in trot. If your horse "drops" heavily into the downward transition, be sure to use your leg aids to urge him to press on in trot. Ideally, his first few trot steps should be strong and energetic.

You should also be there right on top of him, ready to move boldly forward into the trot. Don't get left behind or jolted out of your saddle. You can go into a posting trot or continue sitting if you are able.

4. Hands

We are usually taught to pull the horse into the downward transition, especially as new riders. Once you can reliably get the change of gait, start to work away from pulling at all for a downward transition.

The half-halts should be adequate to prepare your horse for the transition, and then to establish the trot. See if you can maintain an even pressure with your reins. Avoid both extremes - throwing them away or pulling back.

Exercise:

This exercise can be done in a large or small ring. It is drawn here using the letters of the large ring for easier reference.

T2-1 — Transition Exercise #2. © Horse Listening, 2015

Start on the right rein at E, at a good, strong, marching walk.

Transition at S to trot.

Do a "good" corner before heading to C, still in trot.

Transition at C to canter. Do a 15-metre circle. Be sure to stay off the rail through the whole circle. Use your outside aids to guide the horse on the circle.

Continue to the corner, still in canter.

Complete the corner and head on a diagonal line from M to V, still in right lead canter.

Continue in right lead canter from V to K. This requires the horse to maintain a counter canter for a few strides just before the trot transition.

Trot at K. Head into the corner at trot.

Finish the second corner and transition to walk. Finish the exercise in walk to B.

Now, if you like, you can continue the same exercise on the opposite rein starting at B. If not, go back and do it again from E.

If you have a young or untrained horse, or a beginner rider, you can make a few changes that will help them be successful. Take the transition in the corners instead of at the letters on the rails. The corners help the horse maintain balance better. You can make the circle a 20-metre circle, which will help the horse that needs more room. You can also trot the diagonal line rather than negotiate it in canter/counter-canter.

Try this exercise a few times this week. Let us know in the comments below if you have any questions, suggestions or accomplishments that you would like to share.

If you like this sort of pattern work, join my Practice Sessions Premium Membership. The Practice Sessions are a complete program beginning with exercises like the one above, designed to improve specific aspects of the horse and rider. All set up and ready to go, all you have to do is watch the video, print off the pattern PDF and head to the barn!

But there's so much more! There's quality of movement exercises, theory "Mini-Classes" on specific aids and figures, a fantastic group of riders who motivate and encourage each other, and so much more! Click here to learn more.

Disclaimer: Use this as a guideline but you might need your instructor to respond to your individual needs. By using information on this site, you agree and understand that you are fully responsible for your progress, results and safety. We offer no representations, warranties or guarantees verbally or in writing regarding your improvement or your horse’s response or results of any kind. Always use the information on this site with a view toward safety for both you and your horse. Use your common sense when around horses.

14 Ways To Have A Great Ride

This is for when your riding is in full swing. The horses are fit and the riders are well into a routine, achieving personal goals and heading out on trails. Here are some quick ideas to add to your normal repertoire of horsin' around activities.

1. Enjoy a good groom before you ride. Find your horse's itchy spot and scratch it! You'll both feel better after a thorough clean up and check.

2. Change things up. A switch-up can be just the change you need! Take a lesson, ride the trails, go to a clinic. Do something out of the norm and enjoy the fresh perspective you get from it.

3. Play with transitions. Don't force them, but put in more than you usually do.

4. Build up energy. Don't get humdrum about your ride - go to it like it's the best part of your day (it is)! Think impulsion and engagement - from both you and your horse.

5. Ride with friends. Your horse likes it as much as you do - just limit "hanging out" and socializing until after the ride. While you're on your horse's back, ride with a purpose - together.

6. Do something new. Set up a new obstacle or jump. Or ride around the clump of grass. Here's one: weave through two barrels (or pylons or jump standards) - backward! Look for something different to do.

7. Set a goal. Work toward something that is achievable and sets you up for success. Transitions, anyone? But do more than just that (see #5).

8. Let your horse take initiative. Encourage your horse when he does something well, even if you weren't asking for it. For example, if you asked for increased energy at the trot and he did a wonderfully balanced canter transition, go with him for a few strides. You can always go back to the trot again and continue to work on the energy level.

9. Have a quick celebration! Every horse has a favorite movement. After a series of "work" movements, have some fun time. My horse LOVES to lengthen or stretch - I use them as mini-riding-parties every ride.

10. Give your horse a pat. With your inside hand, so you can give an inside rein release at the same time.

11. Work on your half-halt. Find your horse's happy place with effective, well-timed half-halts. Balance is where it's at - for both you and your horse!

12. Keep you and your horse straight - even on a circle! Straightness is key to help your horse carry you around with as little damage to his body as possible. Constantly work on keeping the horse "between the legs and reins".

13. Go splash in a puddle. Literally! Use every puddle as an opportunity.

14. Hose your horse off at the end, especially if it's hot outside. There is nothing nicer for a horse than a cool (or lukewarm) shower after exercise. Washing the sweat and grime out from under the coat is a great way to end a great ride!

Focus on Transitions – Week 1

Active, balanced transitions are among the most fundamental parts of riding. Transitions are like a pass in hockey, a volley to your teammate in volleyball, or the skate-up to a jump in figure skating. Without a good transition, the horse will be unable to balance into the next movement, no matter how hard he scrambles after the fact.

On week one of our Focus on Transitions, we're going to focus on walk/trot/walk transitions as well as left/right changes of direction.

I'll go over the aids for both the up and down transitions and then you'll get our exercise of the week. We'll also go through the three types of transitions. All three types can be included in our exercise. Please feel free to let me know how things go in the comments at the bottom of the page.

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Purpose:

Walk-Trot-Walk Transition, Change of Direction and Change of Circle Size (Bend)

Due to the 10m circle, this exercise is suitable for horses and riders with some previous training. You can simplify it for young horses or beginner riders by working on 20m circles only.

Goals:

Balance
Impulsion
Beginning of topline use
Beginning lateral suppleness
Maintenance of rhythm through the changes
Accuracy of circle size, 20m and 10m

The walk-trot-walk transition is a basic movement but don't be fooled by its simplicity! Many horses, trained or not, have difficulty managing a balanced, energetic transition in these gaits. We will work on the preparation to each transition to help develop impulsion to, through and after each gait change.

Change of direction and circle size is also added in this exercise to help the horse (and rider) develop a beginning level of suppleness and balance.

Aids:

Please note that these are general aids that do not necessarily resolve specific problems.*

Trot Transition From the Walk

Start with a good walk.

Prepare to trot.

Trot.

Go!

Half-halt.

Start with a good walk.

As in, don't just drag your horse into the trot. Get a good march, preferably on a large circle with a mild bend. Establish a strong walk rhythm before heading into a trot.

Prepare to trot.

Use a mild half-halt two or three strides before the transition. Keep the strong, forward walk footfalls right to the transition (as in, don't allow the horse to slow down or conversely, speed up the last couple of strides).

Trot.

Start with your seat. Trot in your seatbones.

Add legs - even pressure on both sides. Use as little as you need, but as much as you need.

Maintain your rein length.

Don't get left behind when the horse trots off. Do you best to not pull back on the reins through the transition (we all do this even subconsciously). However, also do your best to not let the reins out during the transition. We also do this when we're trying to not pull!

Go!

After the legs change, ask for a couple of steps of increased impulsion. This might sound counter-intuitive until you realize that the horse should have increased energy to allow the hind legs to come deeper underneath the body just as the trot is beginning. Let the horse give you this slight energy surge and ride it through. Don't block with your hands through this moment.

Half-halt.

This is like the icing on the cake. In order to help your horse maintain balance through the gait change, you still need to "recycle" the energy back to the hind end. Some horses need very slight half-halts (maybe even just from a little finger squeezing on the reins) while others need a true rebalancing from the seat. You might even have to adjust your half-halt strength in different times for the same horse. Again, stick to the same rule - use as little strength as you need but as much as you need.

Walk Transition From the Trot

Start with a good trot.

Prepare to walk.

Walk.

Go!

Half-halt.

You might be noticing a pattern in the transition aids.

The down transition aids are pretty much the same as the up transition aids. I won't repeat everything I already said above for the walk/trot transition, but all the explanations would be the same - just with opposite gaits.

Use your seat the same way (switch from trot to walk), use your half-halts in the same way, and use the Step #4 "Go" the same way, after your horse is walking. Do use your leg aids as you prepare to walk. Keep your legs on in the transition.

What you shouldn't do is use your reins to pull your way into the walk. Half-halts should do nicely and then your seat can take over from there.

Exercise:

T1d — Transition Exercise #1 © Horse Listening, 2015

We'll start with a variation on regular figure eights.

This first diagram is drawn on a large 20x60 metre ring. The second diagram is drawn for a smaller, 20x40m ring. Unless you're using these exercises for show preparation, the size of your ring doesn't matter as much as the accuracy and consistency in size of your circles.

Let's say you are starting the exercise at C, going left.

Start with a 20-m circle to the left, at the trot.

You will go around the circle one and a half times. So, you start at C but finish on the opposite end of the circle at #1.

Transition to the next circle to the right. The catch here is that the right circle is going to be half the size of the left circle: only 10m.

T1a — Transition Exercise #1, smaller ring © Horse Listening, 2015

Go around that circle one and a half times to #2.

Transition to the next 20m circle, going left again until you get to #3.

Finish with a 10m circle going right.

At the end of the pattern, continue on the rail going in the same direction as the last circle (right). This will take you back to C, going to the right.

You can run through the pattern 4 times to practice each side twice.

Transitions

There are three types of transitions in this pattern.

Each circle requires a change of direction. The repeated left and right changes will help to supple your horse laterally. Remember to use your inside seat and leg aid in preparation of the new direction.

The change in circle size helps your horse bend more on the smaller circle, thus requiring a deeper stride from the inside hind leg. Then the next large circle allows the horse to use that increased engagement into a more forward, powerful stride using a smaller bend. See if you can develop a steady tempo in both the large and small circles.

Once you have a good handle on the figure, add gait changes within the circles. Start at the trot and do a walk transition at each midpoint of the circle. You can make it easier for your horse by walking 5 strides. Or you can increase the level of difficulty by limiting the walk to only 3 strides. Just make sure that you do get a walk, and that the walk is at a good marching pace. Then go back to the trot.

Try this exercise a few times this week and see what you think. Does it help your horse develop better suppleness left and right? Do the 10m circles encourage your horse to lighten the front end a bit? Do you run into any problems through any of the transitions? Let us know in the comments below.

Disclaimer: Use this as a guideline but you might need your instructor to respond to your individual needs. By using information on this site, you agree and understand that you are fully responsible for your progress, results and safety. We offer no representations, warranties or guarantees verbally or in writing regarding your improvement or your horse's response or results of any kind. Always use the information on this site with a view toward safety for both you and your horse. Use your common sense when around horses.

How To “Allow” A Lengthening

It isn't easy to work your horse into a true lengthening. That is because most horses tend to increase their leg speed when asked for "more" by the rider's aids. Invariably, we speed up our posting tempo to mirror the horse's and soon enough we are going faster-faster and then the horse switches into a canter.

If the horse doesn't speed up, he might stay in the same trot. So in effect, there was no lengthening at all.

What is a lengthening?

The key to a true lengthen is in the horse's body. The leg speed has nothing to do with the movement (other than in horses with suspension, the tempo might actually slow down a touch). Instead, the horse should stretch in the body from hind leg to front leg, allowing the stride to open up and the body to lengthen. The head can be held high and the nose on or ahead of the vertical.

There should be a feeling of uphill movement and quite a surge of energy (impulsion) as the horse gets into full swing.

Why lengthen?

There are so many reasons to add the lengthen to your daily riding routine. First, it helps strengthen the hind end by asking for the hind legs to come deep underneath the body to start the initial push of energy. Second, it strengthens the topline by allowing the opening of the body and transferring energy through the topline, under the saddle and to the horse's neck and poll.

Third, it challenges the horse to increase energy without losing balance. This is a prerequisite for higher level movements such as the medium or extended trot. Fourth, when done right, it just feels good! Some horses (and riders) lengthen just to feel the freedom of power that it allows.

Use a lengthen after (basic) collected work and see how fun it is for the horse to "go big" after some carrying work.

What not to do.

We'll start with what you shouldn't do to help eliminate the common problems from the get-go.

Don't kick the horse faster. You need seat and leg aids, but you don't need to stun or rush a horse into a lengthen.

Don't grab a hold of the reins and pull the speed back. Use half-halts before, through and after the lengthen. But do your best to allow the horse as much freedom as possible without coming to the forehand.

Don't fall behind the horse's movement. There should be an energy surge as the lengthen develops. Make sure you keep your upper body on top and in center of the saddle. If the horse does in fact lengthen the stride, you'll cover more ground than usual. Be there!

Don't let you reins go. This is the opposite extreme of pulling on the reins. If you let the reins get longer through the movement, the horse will have nothing to support him and will likely fall to the forehand. So it's not exactly a free-for-all in rein length. Keep the reins the same length before, during and after the lengthen.

What to do.

It's easiest to introduce the lengthen to the beginner horse or rider on the long side of the ring. Use the rail to help guide your horse for the first while so that you can focus on the stride length and your own aids and body. Graduate to a diagonal line only after you have some success on the rail.

Use the short side of the ring to prepare for the lengthen. You could do a 15-m circle at A or C to prepare. Develop a good working trot in the circle. Work on rhythm, a nice controlled tempo, and suppleness both laterally and longitudinally. You can post or sit, but if either of you are new to the lengthen, it's generally easier to post while you and the horse develop your strength.

Take that good trot out of the circle and into the corner.

Half-halt into and out of the corner. Make sure your corner is forward and energetic, but the trot stride should still be the horse's normal working trot length. Pump up the energy through your seat and leg but don't let it out yet!

Develop the lengthen.

One of our most common mistakes we make in teaching and/or learning the lengthen is to think that we have to take off like a cannon ball out of the corner. This is how horses learn to stiffen, fall to the forehand and learn not to use their backs.

Instead, come out of the corner as if you're still in your working trot. Then a few strides at a time, "allow" the energy out. If you did your homework in the circle and corner, the horse should be almost exploding with energy and now has a chance to let it come through.

Remember to keep the same rein length and keep your body on top of your horse (don't lean back or get left behind). Just ride as you normally would ride the trot.

Your post might be a touch longer in the forward and back phase if the horse does lengthen the stride. If you are sitting the trot, your seat will have to follow the bigger strides. Half-halt before the next corner, readjust your seat to a regular stride length, and half-halt coming out of the corner.

What usually happens.

Chances are, your horse either speeds up or doesn't make any change at all.

In both cases, don't worry too much. Instead, go into the next circle, go through the set up and try again. The key is that you have to learn to do the allowing, and your horse has to learn to accept it. Many horses don't even recognize the allow initially. It takes time to learn how to let go.

There is also the strength factor in both of you. Your horse might be able to really give only a handful of lengthen strides before falling to the forehand or scrambling faster. You might fall behind the movement and inadvertently pull or interfere in some way.

It takes time for both of you to develop the core muscles necessary to lengthen. So don't be too hard on yourself or your horse. Whatever happens, just make a mental note and come back to it next time you ride. Don't expect it to happen overnight.

A good lengthen feels effortless. The strides bound down the rail and you can feel the surge of energy coming from the hind end. The horse should be forward-feeling, uphill and energetic. Bonus points if his ears are pointed forward and he calmly comes back to a working trot at the end!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

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Would you like to be the rider that all horses dream of?

By following simple, useful exercises, you will be able to develop a better understanding about many topics including:

- the rider’s aids

- the use of the seat

- the half-halt

- accurate turns and circles

- transitions

- horse ownership and horse care

- goal setting for the rider

- rein lameness

… and much more!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Feedback Results and Thanks

Just wanted to write a quick note to let you know that I truly appreciated everyone's feedback in regards to my "transitions" idea. Your comments were helpful and clarified my direction for the near future on this blog. I was amazed that so many people took the time to comment on the idea and let me know what they were looking for.

Many people thought that 12 weeks on one topic is too long for a blog forum. Upon consideration, I do agree with that. So I've decided to do a four-week focus as well as my usual single-topic posts each week.

For those who wanted more - I'm going to take this four-week focus and turn it into a 12-week paid program. Some people suggested videos, others wanted a forum to share ideas and questions, and some were interested in personal feedback. I'd like to address these needs for the people who want them. Look for more info in a few weeks.

Thanks again, and as usual, thank you so much for your readership and comments.

Kathy Farrokhzad,

www.horselistening.com

17 Things I Learned While Developing My Seat

Recently, I was inspired to think about my "journey" in discovering an effective (enough) seat that has allowed me to progress further than I ever thought possible in my own riding. I've harped on riding from your seat before (see the links at the end of this article), but thinking back, I remember how I went through so many realizations as I progressed.

Here are some of the lessons learned over the years as I focused on developing my seat.

You use muscles you didn't even know you had.

I'm not exaggerating! If you're not used to riding from the seat, the muscles you might feel the next few days are deep in your lower abs. Hard to access but evidently clear after a good ride!

Your seat is more than just your "seat".

The seat includes everything from above your knee to your hips. Your lower back helps a lot too.

The lower back is essential in freeing up your seat.

Speaking of which, if you have a stiff lower back, you'll tend to have a hard time using your seat effectively and in control. Place one hand in the small of your back to help isolate the region which needs to release and contract as your horse moves.

You can develop nerve endings in interesting places.

As you become used to riding from the seat, you will develop an ability to "feel" the horse - his back, the movement of his hind legs, how round or hollow he is, and even the quality of your contact. Don't ask me how it happens. I was as surprised as you will be!

Your seat bones can be awfully strong when used correctly.

Try putting a hand under your seat bone while your horse is walking. First off, you'll know if your seat bone is really moving with the horse. But also, you might actually feel the effect of your seat bone. Dressage saddles are designed to help your horse feel the seat bones through the tree, but really, all the saddles will allow similar communication regardless of style.

You can walk on your seat bones much like you walk on your legs.

Have you ever tried that? As the horse walks, "walk" on your seat bones. Don't sway your hips side to side though - step forward and back in each seat bone in rhythm with the horse's belly swing.

The horse really appreciates being ridden from the seat.

My mare, Annahi, was the first horse to "tell" me about it. She changed so much, so dramatically, after my first few attempts, that I was sold immediately. In those early stages, "finding my seat" was quite difficult though, so I would be effective for a few strides and then not again for quite a while.

You can see the results of the effective seat more than you can see the seat being used.

The seat aid is mostly a feeling between you and your horse. While it is a definite aid and you certainly can use it intentionally, it would be difficult for an observer on the ground to actually see what you did with your seat. However, the horse's response is clearly evident when you know what to look for.

The seat aids must follow and reinforce the leg aids.

If you're used to using your legs and then waiting for the horse to respond, you'll find it difficult at first to activate your seat. But if you work at it, you'll see that your seat has the ability to embellish your leg aids like nothing else.

There is more than just one way to use your seat.

There is the passive seat, the driving seat, the restricting seat, the light seat, the heavy seat, the inviting seat. I'm sure there's more. Each takes time to develop.

You can shape your horse's outline from your seat better than from your hands.

It doesn't matter how hard you pull or crank or grab with the hands - the "roundness" of a horse comes from your ability to shape the horse's energy - you guessed it - through the seat.

The seat can control the horse's tempo in a given gait.

It's not about the hands. (Did I say that already?) Regulate your horse's footfalls by either going with the horse or resisting for just a moment longer to slow the legs. You'll be amazed at how easily a horse will respond if you can be aware of your own tempo.

You can use both seat bones together at the same time, or alternate left-right, or focus mainly one just one.

Well, this took me about two years to master well enough to be able to do it at will. I'm not sure if it takes everyone that long, but it took a lot of concerted effort on my part to be able to "separate" my seat bones at the right time, in the right way. But I'm here to tell you that it can be done, and both you and your horse will be happier for it. Then your communication can be even more precise.

You can invite your horse to swing in the back by lifting your seat.

If you swing in your back, your horse will have an easier time swinging in his back. I'm not sure if "lifting your seat" is the best way to describe it, but it isn't exactly like you lighten the seat (as in, perch or hover over the top of the saddle). You actually suck your seat up into your body in such a way that you invite the horse's back to come up and forward with the energy created by the hind end. Difficult to learn initially but again, you will reap rewards once you find it.

The seat helps you maintain quieter aids.

The more developed seat is the one that can balance the rest of the body as the horse moves. People often speak of developing an "independent seat" - which means that it can "talk" to the horse without causing a disruption of the other aids. Developing a quiet and independent seat is a prerequisite for being able to turn down the strength of your hands, legs and upper body.

There is no replacement to being lunged to develop a good seat.

I hate to tell you, but this is the truth. There's a reason that the "famous" riding schools lunged their students on experienced school masters. We don't get to see much of lunging these days, but if you are lucky enough to have a horse and instructor willing to do it, jump at the chance! You should be able to develop a basic, secure seat with just one lesson a week over a six month period. It's that powerful. If you can do more, it's time well spent.

You can never finish developing your seat.

I guess it's like anything that takes a lifetime (or two) to master. You will happily celebrate each level of achievement as you develop your seat, but deep down, you'll realize especially as you become better that there is so much left for you to learn and discover.

This last point is probably the most important. Like many other things related to horses, there is no end to the levels you can get to, especially when it comes to riding with the seat. I know I'm at a certain level of effectiveness when it comes to riding from the seat. I also know that I have a whole lot more to learn. (Can I have the second lifetime after I'm done with this one??). I've watched even Grand Prix level riders improve in their seat over the years - I don't think you ever stop learning.

Do you have anything to add to the list? Where are you in your "seat journey"?

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Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success provides practical and theoretical suggestions to improve the training of both the rider and the horse.

From the book:

"Regardless of discipline, what would be the most significant effect a rider would want to have on her horse?

We all want our horses to improve in their athletic

development, skill acquisition and connectedness. Much of our rider development and training efforts go into working toward our show or personal goals....

But the best riders aspire to do one essential thing each and every day, regardless of goals and lesson plans: they work hard to improve their horse’s way of going.

Because proper balance and weight carriage is essential to a horse’s longevity. Each and every minute of each and every ride has the potential to contribute to your horse’s health and well-being.

Or not."

Just as with all the Horse Listening Collection Books, this book is focused on helping the rider improve for the sake of the horse. But this book goes deeper into the best training articles from the blog - horse-centered theory, strategies and ideas you can try with your own horse.

The book begins with the horse's hind end (!), considers the horse's back, moves on to rider development, and fills it all in with the fundamentals of horse riding so your horse can be:

happier in his body

happier in his "work"

better balanced all-around

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Horse Listening Wins An Equestrian Award!

I'm thrilled to let you know that Horse Listening is one of 13 award winners being given the awesome title of "Most Enriching Equestrian Blog of 2015" by the Animal Health Company, based out of the U.K.

It's so rewarding to be recognized as a top blog on the international scale, and especially being in the mix of the other high quality websites that "give you the resource, tips and insight to fully understand the world of horse riding and the equestrian lifestyle as we know it."

Trot on over and check out the other blogs that have also been recognized!

Thank you so much for reading and commenting and making this blog such a great site. Looking ahead to new blog ideas as we ride on through 2015.

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Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Other awards and recognition:

Horse-Eating Monsters: 4 Steps To Controlling The Spook

bend away from spooky object — Bend away from objects and go! Photo Credit:NBanaszak Photography

You're probably familiar with that horse-eating monster in the corner of the arena. You know - the invisible one that pops up even after passing that spot for the 100th time!

Or it might get even better. After going by without a thought for the past fifteen minutes, your horse suddenly decides that the invisible monster just showed up this moment! And you're stuck riding the spook rather than riding your plan (hopefully, you are riding and not on the ground).

In any case, your horse might spook at imaginary objects. He might spook at real objects - as in, the jumps that were moved around and put back differently than the day before. Or he might spook at a sound - no object needed!

The spook can be a problem not only in terms of the potential danger it might cause to you and your horse. Even if it is just a mild side-step or a dropped shoulder to the inside of the ring, your ride can be affected as well.

Your horse will likely drop his back and increase in tension through the body. He might lift his head and look at the offending objects, or step away without even looking. The tempo might be affected and you might find yourself becoming more of a reactive rider than you would like, waiting to see what happens and then trying to fix it after the spook.

What to do?

*Always be safe! If you feel that you or your horse are not in a safe situation, take steps to de-escalate the situation. Tone down the ride, avoid the area, get off and work from the ground. Always be super-vigilant about safety for both of you. The solution below might not work for everyone in every scenario. Use your common sense or get help from a professional.*

The following solution is a long-term "fix". It is not intended to give you a one-off, on-the-spot result. The horse's response will take time to develop, but if you stick with this routine in every spook situation (assuming you are safe enough), you will actually be able to teach your horse what to do when he feels like he should scoot, balk or deke sideways.

Step 1.

Do not look at the offending corner or object!

Most of us tend to have our attention attracted to whatever the horse is looking at. As John Lyons has often said, you end up spooking right along with your horse, since now both of you end up looking at the horse-eating monster! Your horse says, let's get outta here! And your body says, wow that is a scary horse-eating monster! And you both end up feeding each other's spook.

So first off, assuming you know what your horse is looking at, look the other way - preferably to the middle of the ring, where there is absolutely nothing to gawk at and everything appears to be calm and boring.

Step 2.

Encourage your horse to do the same.

This is where your bend aids come handy. Turn your own body to the inside. Use your inside seat bone and leg to ask for the bend. You can even do a small leg yield out (yes, in the direction of the monster) assuming that your horse is looking to the inside away from what he is scared of.

Take up just enough contact so that you have clear communication, and so that you can stop any dangerous movements. Try not to pull back. Stabilize your elbows so you don't pull, and keep your rein length consistent as you bend your horse.

Use your inside rein to help with flexion and get the horse's eyes looking toward the middle of the ring. Use your outside rein as a neck rein to prevent the horse from drifting too far out.

Step 3.

Go straight.

Well, straight on the turn or bend. So the body stays bent, but the front legs should only go straight forward. No side stepping. No stopping. Just GO!

Give the horse a way out - straight ahead.

You can give an inch in your elbows to free the horse's front end slightly (not a lot, especially if he feels like he is going to fly sideways) to encourage the forward movement.

Step 4.

Half-halt.

Here comes the half-halt! Just as in any other movement or transition, use the half-halt after the "go" to control the amount of leg speed and impulsion. Make sure you are committed to the horse's movement. If the horse lurches forward, go with him and then control through the half-halts. Do everything you can to not pull on the mouth or jerk the reins or in any way cause discomfort to the horse's tongue or bars of the mouth.

The resulting picture should be that the horse stays on the path you sent him on. He might spook up a storm, but his legs keep going exactly where they were going in the first place. The horse might tense a bit but as you bend him toward the middle of the ring, he should calm down and settle in his gait. If he learns to go when you ask him to, his rhythm should stay even and his pace should stay unhurried.

And then it looks like there was no spook at all. In the long run, your horse might even learn to not spook because there is nothing to spook at in the first place.

Remember that this is a lesson - it's a learning process that will take many repetitions for both of you to master, especially if your horse is used to spooking fairly regularly. It's not a quick fix and there is a fair amount of learning that must take place on your part until you can communicate it effectively to your horse.

At the beginning, accept any reduction in the spook as an improvement. Over time, you can expect less and less evidence of a spook. Always encourage your horse with your voice, a light pat with your inside hand, or a change of topic after passing the spooky area.

Good luck and remember to be safe!

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Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

Stop printing off the articles! Your favorite training articles are compile
d in this beautifully bound paperback book. Have everything at your fingertips - this book can be taken to the barn as a quick refresher or leisurely read at home.

Signed Author Copies available - perfect gifts!

From the book:
"Regardless of discipline, what would be the most significant effect a rider would want to have on her horse?
We all want our horses to improve in their athletic development, skill acquisition and connectedness. Much of our rider development and training efforts go into working toward our show or personal goals....
But the best riders aspire to do one essential thing each and every day, regardless of goals and lesson plans: they work hard to improve their horse’s way of going.
Because proper balance and weight carriage is essential to a horse’s longevity. Each and every minute of each and every ride has the potential to contribute to your horse’s health and well-being.
Or not."
Just as with all the Horse Listening Collection Books, this book is focused on helping the rider improve for the sake of the horse. But this book goes deeper into the best training articles from the blog - horse-centered theory, strategies and ideas you can try with your own horse.
The book begins with the horse's hind end (!), considers the horse's back, moves on to rider development, and fills it all in with the fundamentals of horse riding so your horse can be:
happier in his body
happier in his "work"
better balanced all-around

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Horses. Riding. Life.

Author: Horse Listening

Focus on Transitions – Week 2

Purpose:

Aids:

Exercise:

Horse Listening Book Collection - beautiful paperbacks with all the excellence of the blog - in your hands! Click on the image for more information.

14 Ways To Have A Great Ride

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

New! Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

Focus on Transitions – Week 1

Purpose:

Goals:

Aids:

Trot Transition From the Walk

Start with a good walk.

Prepare to trot.

Trot.

Go!

Half-halt.

Walk Transition From the Trot

Start with a good trot.

Prepare to walk.

Walk.

Go!

Half-halt.

Exercise:

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – Book 4: 20-Minute Exercises To Add Variety To Your Riding Routine

How To “Allow” A Lengthening

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Feedback Results and Thanks

17 Things I Learned While Developing My Seat

Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success provides practical and theoretical suggestions to improve the training of both the rider and the horse.

Horse Listening Wins An Equestrian Award!

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Horse-Eating Monsters: 4 Steps To Controlling The Spook

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

The same excellence as the blog - but in your hands! Buy Now.

Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success