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Which starts with the the hind end: impulsion, engagement, "stepping under".
In case you haven't seen this video yet on my Facebook page, I thought I'd post it here.
This has to be one of the most informative videos I have seen about how riding affects the horse's back. There are visuals, radiographs, an instructor's perspective, as well as veterinarian explanations. The video is 18 minutes long, so save it for when you have enough time to sit and really watch.
One of the riding recommendations is to use the stretch as a way to help the horse develop his topline and strength over the back. I've written quite a bit about this over the years, and I'll attach links below. Needless to say, I'm a "stretchy fan" - if you're familiar with my writing (and riding) - so I am thrilled to see this information presented so clearly.
Of course, I'm not saying that you should go around in a stretchy all the time - just as a way to develop strength, suppleness, "forward", and comfort for the horse - especially in the early years of training. You can start with a stretch, take a break with a stretch, finish with a stretch. Intersperse it through your whole ride.
I'm hoping you'll find some nuggets of useful information here. Enjoy!
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"Bend" in horse riding can be explained fairly easily: the horse bends his body into the arc of the circle that he is travelling in. Think of the curve of a banana as an image in your mind.
Although it's not possible for the horse to actually bend his spine (the way you see in drawings showing a horse along an arc of a circle), the horse can bring both his hind end and his front end "in" (toward the inside of the circle). This allows him to maintain better balance as he negotiates the curve of the circle.
Sounds pretty simple, right? Then you get to work on it and discover the seemingly endless things that can go wrong.
Bend is something you can start fairly early in your riding career (or your horse's training career) but you'll notice that it's one of those things in horse riding that never really becomes perfect. Just when you think you've got it, you'll discover something new that will make it easier, softer, bouncier, looser... and you will just keep dipping deeper into that proverbial well that is "bend".
Not a bend.
Let's start with what isn't a bend.
The Neck Bend
We often think that pulling on the inside rein will get the horse bending. So we pull away, and the horse bends... his neck.
This causes the horse to send his neck into the direction of the turn, but his body doesn't necessarily follow. Instead, he now has to negotiate balance without the use of his neck (which is essential for balance). His inside hind leg is also blocked by the pressure on the inside rein, which then forces him to disengage in the hind end. This causes further balance problems.
Haunches-Out
Sometimes we can keep the front end on the arc of the circle, but leave the hind end to itself. In this scenario, the horse travels along the circle with the haunches trailing off the arc. While the front end looks like the horse might be on a bend, the awkward hind end means only one thing: not bend!
Flexion
Other times, rather than pulling the neck around, we ask only for the horse's head to turn in. We leave the neck straight(ish) but instead, ask for the horse to look in the direction of the turn. So while the horse's head is directed into the turn, his body may be straight or even mildly counterbent as he moves along the circle.
While flexion is a component of bend, it is not enough.
What a bend really means.
A true bend is a combination of the head, the front end of the horse and the hind end. It's a whole-body position that requires suppleness throughout the body.
First, ask for flexion. The horse looks in the direction of travel.
Second, bring the front end to the turn. Use your inside leg to push the horse to the outside rein. Your leg is responsible for the control of the inside shoulder. Even though the inside shoulder is coming toward the arc of the circle, make sure that the horse isn't just "falling in" - cutting the turn so that you end up coming off the circle onto a sort-of diagonal line.
The outside rein (often called a neck rein) maintains the arc of the front end. Not too much arc but not too little - just enough for the circle you're on. It also acts as the turn aid when you want to move into a turn.
Third, bring the hind end to the turn. The haunches can come in "just enough" to maintain the arc through the body. This job goes to your outside leg, which encourages the horse to bring the hind end off the straight line and into the turn. It also prompts the horse step underneath better with his inside hind leg, which will help him have better balance through the turn.
This is the overall picture.
Let's say you are travelling down the rail to the right and you have a 20-metre circle coming up at E. You move along the straight line (probably in a small shoulder-fore as you set up for the turn). Then as you pass E, you start heading into the circle.
Get the flexion even before you leave the rail - so the horse is looking into the direction of travel. Front end comes into the turn and the hind end follows, with the haunches also on the arc of the circle.
*** At first, you might have trouble coordinating all the aids - inside leg, outside rein, outside leg. You might get one aspect of the bend but not the other two. Your horse might be stiff in the front end, the hind end or both.
Then you might get a bend but it feels like you're working really hard. Maybe there isn't enough impulsion, or the horse "leaks" in the shoulders or hips.
Eventually, though, it gets easier - for both you and your horse. You become looser, more supple. Your aids can be softer. Your horse can distribute his weight easier on the turn.
Then you develop that suppleness into all the gaits. Each gait has a different feel.
Then you learn there is even more - something called the (intentional) "counterbend" (or "renvers" in dressage). But that is a story for another day!
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If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look at the new Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.
Included in the book:
design your overarching goals
long- and short-term planning,
debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
sample goals and pages
The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.
I often watch riders pulling up on their reins to ask their horses to raise the head and neck. While we don't want the horse to trudge along with all their weight on their front legs, just pulling up on the rein is not the answer.
The horse might lift his neck in response to the discomfort in his mouth, but invariably, he drops it again within a few strides because a horse simply cannot lift the head and neck if the rest of the body is tending toward being on the forehand and strung out (not engaged in the hind end). He may try to please you by cranking his neck up, but that movement will only put more weight on the forelegs and tilt the horse's body more to the ground.
So how do you lighten the forehand, using the horse's "natural" biomechanics, especially in the late novice to beginning intermediate stages of training? Try this amazing transition exercise and see how your horse feels after several repetitions.
This exercise is a good one for several reasons:
First, it "tunes in" your horse to your aids, mainly because there are many things going on in succession. It also makes you stay active and balanced through the sequence of movements.
Second, it works on helping your horse bring his balance back to the hind end, while lightening the forehand.
Third, it requires more impulsion which in turn helps the horse round his back and strengthen over the topline.
Fourth, it adds "spice" to your flat work, which is nice for everyone!
Exercise
Canter
Trot
Canter
Walk
Start At Canter
Get to the canter, preferably from a walk. If a non-progressive transition is too advanced for you or your horse, do trot before the canter but make it as short as possible.
Canter several strides - let's say 20 strides. You can make it longer or shorter depending on your needs.
Transition to Trot
Once you have an active and rhythmical canter, do a downward transition to trot.
Do not stay in trot for long. Ideally, go back to the canter within three to five strides. If you can't make it that quickly, do as many strides as you need, but keep working toward three to five as a maximum.
Transition to Canter
Immediately ask for a new canter departure. If your horse slows down the canter tempo a little, accept it and slow your seat down too. You want to encourage any attempt your horse makes to "carry" rather than run. If his neck comes up, accept that too, because as he tucks his hind end under, his front end and neck will naturally elevate. Don't catch him in the mouth or pull on the reins or make him drop his head. Simply continue riding with the newly elevated forehand.
Transition to Walk
This one may be the most difficult, after all the energizing you just did. But it's well worth the effort.
Ideally, you would canter right to the walk, and then march out of the down transition in a forward flowing, active walk. However, it might not happen that way for a while until your horse understands. He might trot before the walk, or fall heavily to the forehand as he lurches to a walk.
That is ok. Just keep trying, keep feeling for and adjusting your timing of the aids, and use half-halts in preparation for each downward transition.
Continue the sequence with a new transition to canter after 3-5 walk strides, and start it all over again.
Notes
It is easier for the horse to do this exercise on a large 20-meter (or bigger) circle to begin. As you get better at it, you can do the transitions on a straight line (more difficult). If you get really good, you can do it on a circle, then on a line, then change directions to a new circle - all the while, going through the transitions.
The key to this exercise is to minimize the trot and walk sections so that the horse's weight shifts back and frees up the front end. The canter encourages the hind end while the trot and walk help to prevent the horse from falling to the forehand.
You can change the sequence to keep things fresh: canter-walk-canter-walk, canter-walk-canter-trot, canter-trot-canter-trot. It's really up to you, how your horse feels and what you want to get out of the exercise.
Keep in mind that this exercise is fairly taxing and requires a lot of muscular effort. If your horse isn't very fit, don't do too many in a row. Break it up with some walking or other low impact work before trying again, or do just a few each day for a while until your horse has a chance to build up stamina.
I like the canter-trot-canter-walk because of the walk at the end. It gives us a chance to gather ourselves up, take a breath and prepare again for the canter. I also think the walk-canter transition is very helpful in getting the horse to work from the hind end, which is always one of my major goals.
If you do try this exercise, let us know how it went in the comments below.
Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!
Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions.
This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.
I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!
Click to learn more.
If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look at the newGoal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.
Included in the book:
design your overarching goals
long- and short-term planning,
debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
sample goals and pages
The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.
You can do a beautiful back-up without ever releasing the reins. Soft ears and poll, engaged diagonal footsteps, straight and balanced.... Well, maybe after a lot of patient practice and with good communication between you and your horse.
I know what you're thinking: WHY wouldn't I want to release the reins if it's all that good?
Before I answer, I want to recap what I already wrote a while ago about the aids in the "Forward" Back-Up. At that time, I was writing the aids for a beginner - horse and/or rider.
1. Shorten the reins so you have contact.
2. Start with a gentle squeeze of your legs.
3. As the horse takes that forward step, he leans into the pressure of the contact and realizes that he cannot step ahead. The legs then begin the backward movement. At the same time, lighten your seat slightly to the front of the saddle.
4. Once the backward motion has started, lighten the contact (don’t throw it all away!) in order to give the horse a release.
So you might notice that in #4, I had said to lighten the contact to give the horse a release. I wrote that while I was starting to teach my own horse, Cyrus, the back-up. He was still fairly young and we were in the beginning stages of learning to back.
In The Beginning
He would often make "mistakes" (not really, because he was trying so hard - but they weren't the answers I was looking for). He would lean forward into the bit pressure. Sometimes he walked straight out of the halt with no hint of backing up. He might raise his head high, or drop his head super low. Other times, he'd back, but his legs would be "sticky" and kind of drag backward in a 4-beat sequence.
But as soon as he was even close to backing up, I'd soften the reins to let him know he was on the right track.
Slowly but surely, he got the idea. He went through a better phase - understood that when there was a "go" aid from my seat and legs, and with contact, he should move backwards. His legs became diagonal more often, and he kept his head level most of the time. He got better at stopping and walking forward again just from my seat.
No Pull Required
Now, we've gotten to yet another level of accomplishment. He is actually the one who reminded me that I don't actually have to release the rein when he backs up. Why?
Because I don't need to put any pressure on the reins period. Not even to initiate the movement.
This is what we speak of when we say that a horse in "on the aids". He has gotten so good at the back-up that I can initiate the movement only with my seat and legs. He will continue to back as long as my seat and legs are active.
New, Invisible Aids
Here are the more advanced aids. For the onlooker from the ground, it looks as if I have done nothing. For Cyrus, my movements are so slight that I don't imbalance or interfere with him in any way (well, the best I can).
1. Shorten the reins enough to have them be straight but with (next to) no pressure. Alternatively, if you ride with longer reins - as in western riding - then hold the reins as you normally would with no extra pressure.
2. Slightly tilt your seat until you lighten the tail bone area enough to free the horse's back. Don't actually tilt your upper body - your body position should stay the same.
3. Wrap your legs around the horse and squeeze. No kicking or jabbing with the spur. Just "active" legs versus "passive".
These aids should be enough to signal your horse to back. Because he is more experienced, he will likely not lean into the bit at all - the seat and legs should be enough for him to understand that he's backing.
He was so good the other day that I didn't have to give a release of the reins, mainly because I never had to take up any pressure in the first place. He has become so much better at backing straight that my legs don't have to put any extra pressure at any point to straighten his body - same even pressure through the back-up.
And then, when I re-tilt my seat back to the normal (3-point) position, and keep my legs active, he knows to walk out of the back, and march forward - straight.
I probably don't have to tell you that it is an amazing feeling! And I also should remind you that it has taken us several years to get to this point. Although it takes time, the practiceis well worth the effort, especially when you get to the "invisible aids" point.
We aren't perfect every time, of course. I imagine he won't be as light and responsive when there are distractions, or if I take him off property. But each time we make this sort of progress, we raise the bar just a little and look forward to more exciting challenges ahead.
How are you doing with your back-up journey? Have you tried invisible aids? Comment below.
Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!
Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the new Horse Listening Practice Sessions.
This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.
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In Part 2 of the 8 Things You'll Learn At The Show, we'll go over four more benefits of showing that really have more to do with life skills than just winning ribbons. Click here for Part 1.
Become Friends With Tension
Ah! The old nerves!
Well, yes, showing horses fires up a whole lot of emotions, including those fear and flight feelings that we usually try to stay away from. After all, the whole context of putting yourself in front of others - from friends to strangers to judges - is one that requires you to take risks and put it all out there.
There is good news! The more you get out there, the more you expose yourself, make mistakes and live through them, the easier it will become to make friends with your tension and actually "rein it in" to make it work for you instead of hinder you. I've written about how to use yournervous energy in the show ring here.
Accept Help
You'll become better at accepting help - from friends and strangers. The unpredictable nature of horses may put you in a position of need to accept help from someone, anyone - and now! When things go wrong, you'll discover that other show goers are often willing to help out in times of need, especially when horses are concerned. You will eventually become more comfortable to approach complete strangers with requests just because you'll learn that when it comes down to it, we're all there to support each other.
While it is possible to show completely alone, most people bring along helpers (family and friends), grooms and coaches - for a reason! Aside from the obvious advantages of having several hands "to make light work," your show crew will bring with them their perspective of what is going on. They'll help you mentally and emotionally, and be in your corner when you need it. They can cheer you on and boost you up.
Be Social
While the other show-goers theoretically are your "competition", they are also fellow horse lovers and dedicated riders. They are also going through a similar path to yours - putting in hours of practice, caring for their horses, taking lessons for improvement, spending the time and effort it takes to prepare to show, and so much more. You likely have more in common with them than you think.
In time, as you meet people and share experiences, you may find that some of your best horsey friendships evolve in the show grounds and carry over into the rest of your life.
Understand What Really Matters
Without a doubt, you go to a show to do well. Or at least, do well in terms of your goals. There's nothing better than receiving a ribbon to boost your confidence and give you the positive feedback that will encourage you to reach farther.
But there will also be the other days - the ones you'd rather forget about. Those days when nothing seems to go right, and no ribbons make it your way. The days when your competition wasn't as friendly as you'd like, or your performance just wasn't able to meet your expectations.
This is when you learn the most valuable life skill. Showing isn't only about ribbons, accolades and achievements. It is as much about "putting yourself out there" as it is about anything else. It's about doing something with and for your horse. It's about going, stepping out of your comfort zone, taking risks, overcoming obstacles.
These accomplishments, while less readily apparent, are as much - if not more - important than any points earned or any wins.
So get out and enjoy the show, or participate in the plentiful horsin' around activities that are out there!
And let us know in the comments below what you plan to do with your horse this season.
Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!
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This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.
Click here to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet.
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Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success
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What happens when you head to a horse show? Is it just a simple walk in, do your thing and walk out affair? Or does something more profound happen in the process?
Shows can be more valuable than you might think. Most people make progress as they accumulate the judges' feedback but there is so much more gained than just riding skills. Sure, improving your aids and becoming a quieter, more balanced rider could be a huge achievement in and of itself. But if you take a deeper look at the whole thing, you'll be surprised to discover what really happens during those horsey field trips.
*Although I use examples from showing (Dressage shows in particular), the following list applies to pretty much anything you can do with your horse - from shipping somewhere to go on a trail ride, to performing in a musical ride, to demonstrating tricks for a crowd, and everything in between.
Humility
One of the first things we learn from putting ourselves "out there" is how to become humble. This happens because no matter how much you prepare yourself and your horse, the unexpected occurs, or something doesn't go right.
The upside is that experience will make you much better able to overcome these less-than-perfect moments. You will learn that the world won't end when things don't go to plan and you will become a better person for it. Among other things, you'll learn to be more accepting of your own and others' weaknesses, put others' needs before your own, stay calm and generally become more confident.
Satisfaction
There is much satisfaction in a job well done. A first place ribbon - or any ribbon, really - is a wonderful, concrete way to recognize your hard work and achievements. But it's not all about the ribbon.
Just taking your well groomed horse, doing your best on that day, and having achieved some of your riding goals should be cause for celebration. You may not get a ribbon every day, but every day that you can go out and expose yourself and your horse to new, more challenging situations, are accomplishments in and of themselves. And that is satisfying.
Stepping Up
There is that element of pressure when you step into the show ring. The surge of energy you get from being put in the limelight can become a good thing. Just let it collect into laser-sharp focus and don't be too surprised if you discover that you can do things a little better than you usually do it at home.
With time and practice, you can learn to use your nerves to make you sharper and more accurate. Transitions come on the spot, your horse's impulsion flows easily, and you ride like a pro! Just the act of showing puts you in a position to try harder, be more accurate, reach for the next goal.
Consistency
There's really only one way that I know of that will bring about true consistency: doing it again and again until it becomes commonplace. Being consistent applies to everything!
For your horse, it means becoming used to things like:
braiding,
trailering,
leading in unfamiliar places,
maybe sleeping overnight in a strange stall.
For you, it means:
remembering everything you need,
developing a pre-class routine,
knowing when and how to complete a "just enough" warm-up,
riding in the show ring often enough until it becomes familiar and expected.
Your attention to detail and consistency will show up in everything from having your tack and grooming supplies when needed, to the regularity of your horse's tempo at each gait. At the show ring - consistency rules!
I've been using this exercise as a warm-up for both myself and my horse lately and I'm seeing great results! It's an active but relaxing way for both of us to loosen up. For me, it gives me time to loosen through my lower back and get onto my seatbones, find a nice tempo in the walk and maintain that tempo consistently.
It helps my horse loosen "over the top line" - getting longer through the neck and back, and then shorter - in a low-impact, non-rushed pace that gives him time to adjust himself physically and mentally to each posture. All the while, he practices swinging in the walk, stepping deep underneath his body with his hind legs and also maintaining a consistent tempo.
This article builds on a previous article I've written about the same concept, explaining the aids in detail, so you might want to read that first. "Can You Accordion Your Horse"? It's important to note that the "accordion" I talk about here is an over the top-line stretch and contraction. It isn't the same thing as a collection exercise (although this builds toward more collection). This one is more basic and can be effectively done by less advanced horses and riders (although it benefits everyone at every stage).
The Exercise
1. Stretch
Start on a large 20-metre circle.
Ask for a stretch, focusing on letting out your reins as the horse reaches for the bit and takes it out and down. Don't just drop the reins and hope for the best. Use your seat and legs to initiate the horse's stretch, and feel for the right moment to let the reins out through your fingers.
Photo Credit: J. Boesveld
When in stretch, feel for the swinging back. Get a friend to observe you to tell you if your horse is at least tracking up in his footsteps, or preferably over-tracking. Then also encourage your horse to open up his poll so that his nose approaches the vertical when his head is at the lowest point.
2. Contract
After a few steps (let's say 5-8 steps), ask for increased impulsion using both legs. As the horse lifts his head, begin to shorten the reins. The horse's head and neck should lift now to his "normal" height (the height will depend on your horse's conformation and level of training) and your reins should be at your normal, working length.
Now, you want to try to maintain that swing of the back that you had in the stretch, even while the horse is contracting his top line muscles and rounder in the back and neck. You want to maintain the walk tempo that you had during the stretch. The stride length will be shorter but ideally, you want to be tracking up even in this "medium walk". The activity stays the same - no dawdling and stopping your own seat (no vacations!) just because you're walking.
3. Now take the exercise around the ring.
Start at the 20-metre circle, but you don't have to stay there. Go to the rail and follow the rail for a few accordions, then come off the rail and change directions on a diagonal line with another accordion, the change directions and keep going.
It is important that you can stretch at will, on a line or curve, and in any place in the arena (scary locations, anyone?) - stretching when your horse wants to spook is a GREAT way to develop confidence and trust from your horse. Just be on guard and don't let the reins out if your horse is ready to run!
4. What next?
Time yourself and try this for 5-10 minutes. Stretch/contract and repeat, even if you think you're getting bored, or if you don't have your horse's undivided attention. Get you and your horse used to how it feels to let the muscles loosen, and how it feels to tighten them again after that looseness. Feel for strength in the medium walk.
Then you can do more! Why stop there? Do the same exercise in trot (more difficult) and canter (most difficult). Don't worry if things don't go perfect the first time - just keep at it and see what you need to adjust through each stretch/contract cycle.
It will get better over time. You will enjoy the fact that your horse will start to predict when he needs to come up and go down, and he will become more and more comfortable in both positions. And so will you!
Notes
Although we are thinking about the position of the head and neck, the idea is that the neck muscles are connected to the withers, which are connected to the muscular structures beneath the saddle all the way to the croup.
Stretch the neck, and you stretch the back.
But it is imperative that you also consider the hind end!
So while you are stretching, impulsionis key. Not fast legs though, just energy and strength for each stride. With each thrust of energy, the horse reaches underneath the body, thereby creating a better balance point in terms of biomechanics, but also activating the hind end muscles into their own stretch.
You want to maintain a light but steady contact at all times through this exercise, even at the stretchiest point. Long or short reins - keep some communication going through tiny half-halts.
If you have a chance to try this, let us know how things went in the comments below!
Try this exercise a few times this week. Let us know in the comments below if you have any questions, suggestions or accomplishments that you would like to share.
If you like this sort of pattern work, take a look at myPractice Sessions Premium Membership.The Practice Sessions are a complete program beginning with exercises like the one above, designed to improve specific aspects of the horse and rider. All set up and ready to go, all you have to do is watch the video, print off the pattern PDF and head to the barn!
But there's so much more! There's quality of movement exercises, theory "Mini-Classes" on specific aids and figures, a fantastic group of riders who motivate and encourage each other, and so much more!Click here to learn more.
I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!
Click to learn more.
If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look at the new Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.
Included in the book:
design your overarching goals
long- and short-term planning,
debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
sample goals and pages
The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.
So after a great ride - wearing just a long sleeve shirt and normal riding breeches (and feeling the freedom of riding sans heavy coat and winter riding pants) - I couldn't resist giving Cyrus a short but awesome first shower of the season.
Cyrus enjoyed the hosing as he usually does, and played his usual antics (licking at and chewing on the water stream). He truly seemed to appreciate the water washing out the winter grime from his coat. At the end, his coat was shiny and sleek and sweat-free.
Giving your horse a regular hose-down is one step toward maintaining great coat condition. If the temperature is warm enough, and you have a little extra time, go for it! Here are 8 things to keep in mind when it comes to giving your horse a bath.
1. You can wash off your horse with water every time you ride.
Water is harmless and in fact, can be very beneficial. Assuming that you have enough water to wash your horse after every ride, and the weather is mild enough, a nice hosing can wash off sweat, under-the-fur mud and accumulated dust. It's also a fun way to interact with your horse and get him used to things like wash stalls, water, different sounds (water stream, or water hitting off the far wall) and generally being fussed over.
2. Shampoo only once a month or so.
Soap can cut away at the horse's natural oils - the very ones that put the shine on. Shampooing is fine when it's done once in a while, especially if your horse is turned out and rolls in mud often. But if your horse is generally clean and gets a regular hosing with water, shampoo is not necessary very often.
If you show, time your shampoo days just before the show. With my non-showing horses, I shampoo them every 4-6 weeks through the summer just to get the mud and sweat out of their coats. Otherwise, I stick to plain water.
3. Use a strong enough water stream.
If you use a super soft water stream, you will only move the dirt and grime around on the horse's body. If you can get a strong "shower" from your nozzle, or even a steady single stream for any caked-on mud, you will do a better job at removing the dirt.
4. Go over the body at least twice.
The first time you wet the coat, you might notice that the water just slides off the top of the fur. This is a good thing, because this means that your horse's coat has plenty of oil coming to the surface and acts as a water repellent.
After you go over both sides of the horse, come back to the first side and go to it all over again. You'll be amazed to see how much extra dirt washes off the second time, because now the fur is wet and cannot let the water just glide off. This is your opportunity to really get to the dirt at the skin level.
5. Work the stream against the direction of the coat.
Don't be shy! You can aim the stream to fluff the fur around so that all the old sweat and grime is released. Get the water into the sticky saddle area, the neck and hind end, especially between the hind legs where sweat often builds up.
6. Remember the more difficult areas.
At this time of year, the pasterns and feet get the most mud damage. I use the steady water stream, making sure that I can see the pink skin underneath the white socks - a sure sign that I've gotten all the mud off.
Be sure to hose the belly, between the hind legs and under the elbows where the girth builds up sweat.
7. Use a squeegee or scraper at the end.
There are many types of water scrapers available now that will enable you to get almost all of the water off your horse before you leave the wash stall. Be sure to scrape the excess water off - to get that last bit of dirt off, and to remove as much moisture as you can manually. The horse will continue to dry off through evaporation but you can get the wettest areas mostly dry by hand. A wool or fleece cooler can help the horse dry quickly if it's cold after the shower.
8. Spend the time you have to, but be done quickly.
Don't wait until your horse becomes uncomfortable. Wash off, squeegee and be done!
Once Cyrus is squeaky clean, I will usually need to turn him back out into his paddock. Invariably, he'll be on a mission to roll - pronto! So when I know the ground is particularly muddy or wet, I'll be sure to cover him up with a blanket so that he won't be able to cake the mud right back into his fur.
It sounds almost too good to be true. Adding a regular hosing off with just water keeps the skin clean and clear of embedded grime, allows the natural oils to come to the surface of the coat, and clears off any old shedding fur.
And the bonus - future grooming is easier, quicker and more pleasurable for both you and your horse!
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If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look at the newGoal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.
Included in the book:
design your overarching goals
long- and short-term planning,
debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
sample goals and pages
The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.
42 Ways to Learn, Play and Grow With Your Horse: Horses give to us in countless ways. We play, learn and grow with them, making horseback riding not merely a sport (which it truly is, like no other), but so much more.
20 Ways Horse Riding Becomes Life Itself: You could say that horses are our teachers. Not only do we grow in terms of physical ability, but perhaps even more so, we grow in character.
What Responsible Horse Ownership Really Means: We need to keep in mind that horses are prey animals and long-time domesticated livestock. If we listen well enough, we discover that what we think of as giving might not be what the horses truly need.
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In Part 2 of the 8 Things You'll Learn At The Show, we'll go over four more benefits of showing that really have more to do with life skills than just winning ribbons. 
