How You Know You Don’t Have Impulsion (Yet)

ImpulsionImpulsion is the fourth of six stages on the dressage training scale (German or otherwise) and it is up there for good reason. We speak of impulsion all the time, and I personally introduce it to novice riders fairly early in their career. But this concept of increased energy is complex and it may take years to truly grasp as you progress in your riding career.

Impulsion affects so many other aspects of gait quality that it cannot be seen as an entity unto itself. In fact, when you are working on increasing impulsion, invariably, you are also working on rhythm, suppleness (over the back and laterally), "forward", quality of contact, engagement, collection - the list can be endless. Impulsion (or lack thereof) can dictate more than just the speed of your horse's legs.

You can also think of it as a sort of health insurance policy for your horse. The better the movement (which is highly influenced by impulsion), the healthier your horse may be over the long term. And hopefully, healthy movement is something that we're all aiming for.

What is impulsion?

Simply said, it's energy. But not all energy is "good" energy.

Impulsion is the type of energy that makes the gait feel bouncier. It creates a deeper stride in the hind end (therefore allowing for a more uphill balance). It feels bold, powerful, electric. The horse feels like he'll step into any gait or movement at a moment's notice.

The results of impulsion can actually be seen. The horse:

How do you know you don't have impulsion (yet)?

There are actually two fairly easy to spot signs.

1. First, what happens when you use your leg aids?

Does the horse go faster? Does the horse change gaits? Does the horse pull or root the reins out of your hands and get longer in the body? Does the horse resist, balk or buck?

Any or all of these responses are signs that you haven't yet achieved impulsion. Let's break it down.

Faster

When the horse goes faster, you know you've put in energy (through your leg and seat aids). The problem here is that the energy is "going out the front door". To create true impulsion, the energy must stay within the horse's body, allowing for that deeper hind leg stride, that increased bounce to the gait, that powerful rounding of the back in movement. Faster legs do not impulsion make!

Gait Change

The same goes for a change of gait. Many horses will easily respond to an increase in energy by changing from the trot to the canter. It is much, much more difficult for a horse to maintain the trot and allow that influx of energy into the trot than it is to just switch the legs. Impulsion does not a gait change make! (Although surely, increased impulsion before, through and after a gait change will improve the transition).

Heavier On The Reins

In this case, the horse is responding by lengthening through the body - front end and likely the hind end. Strung out, anyone? The horse has likely fallen to the forehand and lost balance, putting weight into the reins. The rider has likely let the reins slip through her fingers, allowing them to get longer longer longer. This sort of response happens often with young or uneducated horses and riders. It's one thing to put in the energy, but it's another thing to contain it!




Resistances

I call it "resistance", but you might call it "disobedience" or "miscommunication". Regardless, anything other than forward is backward (some people call it "sucking back"). And any backward movement is not impulsion (even if the legs are still moving in a forward manner). 

2. Second, what happens during a down transition?

Does the horse come to an abrupt stop? Does the horse change gait but go faster and faster in the new gait? Does the horse trip or take a bad step? Do you feel like you have to haul off and pulllll until the legs finally change gait?

All of these signs give you a strong indication that there was a lack of impulsion before the gait change. The horse simply doesn't have the power to "power-down" in a balanced and energetic manner. While we often think of downward transitions as slower, they are anything but slow. It takes strength and energy to change gaits cleanly and without falling to the forehand.

Impulsion: The Electric Rider

Of course, the rider is the root of all impulsion. A rider without impulsion does not an energetic horse make!

If you ride with impulsion, your horse will have impulsion too. The question is - how do you create the energy and how do you contain it?

Those last two questions take a lifetime to learn and develop. At first, you may be able to energize but not contain. Then you might go through a phase where you contain but can't energize. Then you might energize but not be able to stay with the horse as he reflects that energy.

Then you'll likely go through a balance phase - where you put in the energy, the horse falls more to the forehand, you reduce the energy, the horse loses his forward... and you feel like a teeter-totter until you finally find the happy medium (I have that T-shirt!).

Your horse will likely go through all these phases with you - hopefully patiently - and if not, then you will have to figure things out a little quicker! But in the end, it's all so worth it.

When you have that first moment of clear, bold, power that sustains and magnifies the gait, when you feel like your horse just grew an inch, and when you feel like you're floating in tandem with your trusty steed (that is willing and able to stop and turn on a dime), you won't ever want to come back to non-impulsion land. And that is when things begin to get interesting!

How would you describe impulsion? Comment below.

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From Horse Listening, The Book:
"There are many reasons why we enjoy riding horses. Maybe one of the most appealing facets of riding is the sense of freedom: freedom from our own limitations, freedom from gravity, freedom to (literally) roam the Earth. Time stands still while we have the privilege of feeling movement from the back of our four-legged friend.
Riding gives us the place to just be.
Of course, there are other purposes too. Some of us revel in the challenge of learning the skills required to becoming a good team member of this unlikely duo. Riding is like no other sport or recreational pursuit simply because of the equine partner that must not only carry us, but also do so effortlessly and gracefully. As we develop our specific skill sets, we also grow as human beings in character, emotional maturity and mental acuity.
But there is one other motivation that drives some of us to persevere in the never-ending learning process that is horseback riding: improving the horse. As your own skills develop, you begin to realize that not only can you meet your own needs through riding, but also that you can even become an instrument of benefit for the horse."
And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.
This book is geared toward the rider:
- the rider's motivations
- the essential skills for the rider
- some specific strategies
- solutions to common problems
- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience
Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!
Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Turn-In Talk (and Video)

Turn in Talk video horses
Actual video below

Before I put the truck into park, I can hear Annahi calling out. She can't even see me, but I guess she knows what the truck sounds like.

It's turn-in time and I'm at the barn to do my stalls, feed and turn the horses in. We only have four horses (two are mine) so it's not a lot of work. In fact, this kind of "work" is always more inclined to be a pleasure.

There's nothing nicer than coming in to an already swept barn at the end of the day, when the sun is cooling off and the bugs are beginning to go wherever they go in cooler weather. It's calm, the air is fresh and the work itself is meditative.

It's a familiar routine. Do the stalls. Set up the dinner. Add water, make up tomorrow's breakfast beet pulp. Greet each horse with the same enthusiasm they bring with them to the gate (of course, their excitement is likely more about the dinner than seeing me).

There's a lot of walking, between setting up the stalls, catching and escorting the horses in, and whatever else needs to be done in the process. But it's a good kind of walking. The varied footing beneath your feet feels good. Sometimes you're on grass, sometimes the concrete floor of the barn. Other times, it's dried up mud.



Annahi knows when to call again. She waits while I do the stalls. She waits while I set up the other horses' feed - hears the banging of the feed bins, hears the buckets as they are picked up and put down. She even knows when they go into the stalls. Yet she waits - until just the moment after I dump the feed into her stall bucket. How does she know that one is hers? Horses can be so smart.

The walk to the paddock is so gratifying. Both "girls" are impatient. They want to get out of the bugs and into their dinners. This is when Annahi gives me an earful. She varies her tone. When I'm farther away, it's a loud squeal designed to be heard from far away. When I get closer, it's lower and more guttural and staccato. It sounds like the sweet nothing sounds a mare gives her foal.

Friends for almost a lifetime, they walk in together with me, Kayla on the left, Annahi on the right. My two legs to their four seem woefully inadequate. The catch - they both walk faster than I can, and invariably, I'm always telling them to wait up, wait up, wait up... until I have to reinforce with a tug on the lead. They reluctantly comply but they're always polite about it.

I pat Kayla's back as we walk, in rhythm with her strides. Her ears instantly flick forward, her pace picks up again and I ask her to wait one more time. But I know she likes it. I pet Annahi on the shoulder because she's closer to me and she too gets all perky-eared and enthusiastic. I walk a bit faster.

You might wonder how two horses can get through one doorway. It's easy, when you're Kayla and Annahi. Their long-standing herd dynamics sorts it all out with no fuss, no muss. Annahi first. Me beside her while Kayla waits behind (I leave extra lead rope for her so I don't pull on her in the meantime). Then Kayla's turn to delicately navigate through the doorway on her own. No sweat.

I can't help being satisfied when I hear the grinding and munching sounds - then the snorts and sighs. The occasional swish of a tail, face scratch on a leg. Sunshiny day to explore out in the open field, and cool, refreshing, bug-free barn to lounge in at night. Life really can't get any better.

 

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If you enjoyed this piece, you can find many more in our book, Horse Listening – Book 3: Horses. Riding. Life. now available for purchase! 

Available as an eBook or paperback.

horse listening book 3More fun reading:

42 Ways to Learn, Play and Grow With Your HorseHorses give to us in countless ways. We play, learn and grow with them, making horseback riding not merely a sport (which it truly is, like no other), but so much more.

Good Day For A Little Horseplay: Snort, snort, snort, SNORT! My gelding couldn’t tell me in any clearer terms how much he was enjoying the moment.

Living in Flying ChangesI wrote this short poem after a wonderfully exhilarating night ride.

Caught: A short piece of horsey fiction.

The Top 8 Perks of Horse Keeping: Here are a few positives that keep us going when everyone else is enjoying their leisure time.

No Molars? No Problem! (Feeding the Geriatric Horse)

book 3 cover
Well, it's not exactly like they have no molars. The molars are still miraculously there (I know older horses often have to get some of their teeth pulled) but they are so worn down, that they no longer connect top and bottom enough to do the strong grinding that is required for hay stems and grains.  

I learned just a few years ago that horse teeth stop growing after around age 25. Prior to that, their teeth continuously grow, which is why we need to get their teeth "floated" regularly. As their teeth grind food, there might be uneven wear on the molars, which is why horses may develop sharp points that need to be cleared off with a rasp or power floater.

So about four years ago, I noticed that my older mare, Kayla was leaving hay in her stall (very unusual for her). A vet visit later, and I learned that her molars were done growing, and we needed to reduce the floating to only take off the sharpest points, because whatever we removed would never grow back.

Fast forward to today. Now, both my older mares are done with hay. Actually, Annahi (the younger of the two at 28) can still eat a tiny amount of hay each night, but it's negligible. It certainly isn't enough to keep her weight up through the winter.

Last November, I ran into a little trouble as fall turned to winter and the amazing grass we have at their barn died off. There was a sudden decline in both horses' weight, even with the hay offered. The outside hay was pretty much untouched through the day. The nighttime hay was similar, except I could see that Kayla was indeed trying to eat, but always ended up with little balls of hay spit out on the stall floor (called "quidding" if you want to look that up).

Long story short, they couldn't absorb enough hay, which is the foundation of their fiber intake.

I started on a 6-week journey of figuring out how to find a hay substitute to avoid letting them starve over the winter. There is no way I will ever let them starve...

Thus began a thorough and varied research into feeding geriatric horses. I really knew nothing about maintaining horses "past hay" and so I was open to any and all suggestions. If you're ever in uncharted territory, do reach out to those around you. I couldn't believe all the help and information I was able to get from my vet, several nutritional experts at the feed stores and from my own friends who knew my horses (and their idiosyncrasies) and had excellent ideas.

The Diet That Is Working For My Horses

I know that there is no right answer for every horse, but I also know that horses are living longer than ever these days. I'm sure there are many people who might be able to use this information while making their own decisions.

Beet Pulp

I've been feeding beet pulp for over 15 years now. Annahi introduced me to beet pulp long ago thanks to being a hard-keeper. She is a finicky chestnut mare, and is the least food-motivated horse I know. She is THE hunger-strike expert. If the feed isn't just right, she'll go on hunger strike. If something is out of whack (i.e. horse show, anyone?), she goes on hunger strike. If she doesn't feel well... right - she stops eating.

So soaked beet pulp was the saving grace for her from many years past. Even though there has been tons of research on the benefits of beet pulp for horses in recent years, I still have people tell me that it is "just filler" or even not good for horses.

All I can say is that Annahi has taught me differently. I've also done a fair bit of research on it. As a former competitive trail rider, I was taught about beet pulp even before I owned Annahi. If you'd like to know more about it, this is a good article on the pros and cons, a good FAQ article, beet pulp myths, and an analysis of what is actually in beet pulp.

So although I have always fed a small amount of beet pulp to my horses, I went to "more" for my old girls. How much more, you ask? Well, I started feeding it twice a day instead of just once. I also increased the amount to as much as they would eat, and no more. It ended up being a little more than a half a bucket when soaked, each meal.

Grain

I have been a fan of textured grain so far in my horse life. But both horses didn't seem to be grinding or absorbing the oats (as evidenced by oats in their manure). Pellets were fine, thanks to the soft composition that doesn't require too much jaw strength. This led me to a long and windy road to figuring out which pellets I should feed.

Of course, I started with a Senior pellet, balanced especially for older horses. Nope. Annahi wouldn't touch it (and the rest of the beet pulp in that same bucket). I went to a normal maintenance pellet, for horses in light work. Nope! I think I went through five different pellets until I was at my wit's end - just get whatever Princess Annahi would accept!

We ended up with a super-duper high performance pellet, used for horses in moderate work. Yes, it tasted good. They both downed the first offering and I knew it would have to be the one. I don't feed a lot of it, but enough to encourage them to finish all the beet pulp along with the grain. 

Haygeriatric horse feed

This still left a conundrum about hay. The feed store nutritionist highly encouraged me to stick with some kind of hay, as it is essential for food movement and absorption in the gut. I tried soaking hay cubes and Kayla would have none of it (she has never been a fan of soaked anything). So I ended up with pelleted hay, which was accepted by the girls for the most part. The only problem was that it would pulverize to dust and a lot of it would be left in the feed buckets.



After some problem solving with my friend, I finally decided to try hay cubes again - not soaked. I doubted that they would be able to grind the cubes. Surprisingly, they both went to it like gang busters and most of the cubes were eaten. I think they can gnaw the cubes with their front teeth and the hay strands are small enough to go down without a fuss. So as long as we have front teeth, we can go with dry cubes!

Supplements

I also add a Vitamin E/Selenium supplement, and flax (because I can). The grain pellets are already balanced in their vitamins and minerals, so I don't have to add anything more. 

Feed schedule

It would take the mares hours to eat down their new breakfast combo. So in lieu of outside hay, I rigged up the buckets so they could have free choice breakfast outside (even when it was freezing cold). They had all day to eat whatever they wanted. I'd have the same thing ready for turn in at night. It was very strange to not have hay outside in their paddock during the day, but we all got used to it over time.

Results

Well, you wouldn't believe it. Not only did they gain the weight they lost in November, but they continued to gain over the winter. They didn't seem to have any digestive issues - there was enough feed around to last them hours in the morning, and hours at night. They ate with relish, which is what I learned is most important for older horses. 

And they finished the winter in better condition than the past few winters. Once the grass grew in, I stopped their morning grain altogether and they seem to be able to get what they need from grass and a small (normal) amount of grain and beet pulp meal, and hay cubes at night.

I'm sure there will be more challenges as they get older. I think my main goal at this point is to keep them as healthy and happy as I can for as long as I can.

I'd love to hear from you if you have geriatric horses. What do you feed and what has been your experience with horses as they get older?

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3D book 2

Related reading:

8 Ways To Help Your Horse Achieve His Highest Potential: Regardless of what we want to do with our horses, our first responsibility is always to the horse.

17 Wise Reflections - Straight From The Horse's MouthMy horse, Annahi, is full of words of wisdom for those horses around her who are willing to listen.

Eight Legs Plus Two: A poem.

Good Day For A Little Horseplay: Snort, snort, snort, SNORT! My gelding couldn’t tell me in any clearer terms how much he was enjoying the moment.

A Song and My Very Own Chestnut MareYou will find me bristling at the suggestion that chestnut mares are unworthy.

Where Should You Start?

start here
Start somewhere.

Start somewhere.

It's easy to get caught up in perfectionism. The kind that holds you back and makes you stop before you even start.

Take horse riding, for example. There are so many successful riders out there to compare ourselves to. They make it all look so easy. Their horses just cruise through their movements effortlessly and seemingly without a care. Everything just comes together or them - simple, smooth and fuss-free.

But don't be tricked into thinking that those riders didn't put in their dues long before we ever came on the scene. Invariably - the ones that are the most polished, the most prepared and the most perfect - are the ones who have put in countless hours and thousands of repetitions in the process of just getting " there", to the moment you are watching them.

So what can you do?

Recognize that the path is long but filled with joy and adventure. While you work with the long term in mind, identify what you can do in the short term.

Then just start. Figure out what you can do today. Make it easy enough - maybe just 5% more difficult than you want to - and just do it. Push through the exercise, no matter what the result. If you end up with a hollow horse, note the discomfort, and put effort into changing something so that it might become better in the shortest time possible. But still, give it a go.

Then take some time to rethink the situation.

  • Find some help.
  • Get an instructor.
  • Read a book or two.
  • Watch other people's lessons and clinic rides.
  • Watch some good videos on YouTube.
  • Talk to your friends and peers and see what works for their horses.

But there is no answer more critical than getting well-informed, educated feedback. What you think you feel might not be what it actually looks like. What you want might not be where you or your horse are ready to go. Horse riding is one of those things that always requires an eye on the ground, and an expert opinion can help you avoid reinventing the wheel. It might also help keep you safe and your horse happy.

In our yearning for instant gratification, we tend to want things to fall into place quickly and easily. Be willing to let go a little and allow yourself room to explore, make mistakes and grow. Your horse will benefit from every effort you put into yourself, and so will the horses you ride in the future.



However, you have to start somewhere.

Once you start, you will invariably take another step. And another. And soon enough, you'll find your way to places you never thought you could get to - and it all started with that first step.

So today, get off that computer, get out to the barn and do something. Your horse will appreciate it and you will be better for it. Start somewhere, and soon enough, you'll be amazed at what you can achieve!

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If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look at the new Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.

Included in the book:

  • design your overarching goals
  • long- and short-term planning,
  • debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
  • reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
  • sample goals and pages

The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.

Click here for more information.

Goal Setting For The Equestrian: A Personal Workbook

Read more here:

When "Good Enough" Just Isn't Good Enough In Horseback Riding: What does it really take to improve?

7 Great Tips For Beginner Horse RidersHere are a few ideas to help you navigate your way through your first steps (walk, trot and canter).

8 Ways To Help Your Horse Achieve His Highest PotentialRegardless of what we want to do with our horses, our first responsibility is always to the horse.

42 Ways to Learn, Play and Grow With Your HorseHorses give to us in countless ways. We play, learn and grow with them, making horseback riding not merely a sport (which it truly is, like no other), but so much more.

Top 10 Ways to Reward Your HorseA happy horse is a willing partner, and many horses will give everything they have if they feel your acknowledgement and generosity of spirit.

 

Your Horse Is How Old?? 7 Tips To Ride For Longevity

Riding
Kayla being ridden at 30 years of age for a photo shoot. Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Here's the thing: while the older horse may have a few hitches and "irregular" footfalls, the key to helping him lead a quality life in his later years is to keep him moving. It's the same with human beings - while there may be a pain component, maintaining your level of activity (or even increasing it) is one of the primary ways you can stay healthy.

First things first: the trick is to work with your veterinarian. Pinpoint the exact cause of the areas of concern and find out from your vet how to manage the condition. Your horse may have degenerative arthritis. There may be long-ago healed injuries that limit or hamper his movement. He may have developed metabolic conditions over the years.

If you don't already know what is going on, have a thorough discussion with your veterinarian. There may be medications or supplements that can support your horse's condition. Then, devise a riding plan that will keep your horse going well into his later years. Your vet might even suggest specific exercises suited to your horse's needs.

Although I am not a vet, nor am I able to tell you specifically what you can and can't do with your horse, I did ride my first two horses into old age before completely retiring them from riding as they passed the 25-year-old mark. Although many horses can continue to be ridden past 25, I had young horses to give attention to and it seemed like a good time to hang up their bridles at that age.

Both were able to stay fully active through their teens and into their early twenties. It took some careful "listening" on my part, but exercise through riding is at least as important in the later years as it is for young horses - of course, for different reasons.

Here are some "accommodations" I put into place for the girls as they aged. Some of these ideas might work for your horse as well.

Walk More

Walking took a more important role in maintaining a low-impact yet active lifestyle for my girls. With younger horses, where conditioning becomes important, I may push the trot and canter boundaries a bit. But when it came to the old girls, I would take breaks earlier and for longer periods of time. Walk warm-ups and cool-downs were also important.

But watch out for the quality of the walk! If you inadvertently allow your horse to plod along like he's stuck in quicksand, you might be doing him more harm than good. Quality of gait becomes even more important for older horses. Short strides, a hollow back and bracing front legs all contribute to putting even more pressure on the horse's joints and tendons. If you allow a lack of engagement (and therefore limited muscular effort), your body weight in itself can contribute to the stresses he already has on his body.

So even while you're "just" walking, make sure he has a strong tempo, a swinging back, a long(er) stride - all the components that go into a good marching walk that may even improve the horse's conditioning.

Large, Wide Circles and Straight Lines

Riding your older horse gives you permission to forget about accuracy of the figures, and pay more attention to your horse's needs. If he has trouble on circles, then make them wider. Or turn them into ovals, so that there are straight lines in between the turns.

Give him more straight lines as well. Look for long diagonals or ride the quarter lines - keeping him as straight as possible (not allowing him to be crooked).

Flexions and Bends

That doesn't mean you should give up completely on bending. Riding the horse in tension is a guaranteed way to put more harm in than good, so you should address tightness and stiffness each ride.

You should always position your horse so he is at least looking in the direction of movement (flexion) and even work on developing a good bend. The difference would be to insist on bend later into the ride, once the muscles have had more time to warm up. Take more walk breaks, especially after bending, and let the horse have a free walk to release the muscles after a good pretzeling session!

Stretches

Which leads us to stretches. If you read this blog often, you'll know how much I love the stretch, in walk/trot and canter. Stretch often and regularly with your older horse, at the beginning of the ride, as a break between more energetic work, and at the end. You'll both love it!




Progressive Transitions

While your older horse might be a pro at non-progressive transitions, there may come a time when you decide that it will be easier on his joints to make simple, progressive transitions. There is an inherent amount of stress on the body and joints when a horse is asked especially for downward transitions - say, from the canter to walk. Limit those and work instead on the quality of the canter to trot to walk. Always keep the joints in mind and reduce any unnecessary concussion.

Forward Activity

The older horse will benefit from forward movement at least as much as a younger horse. So while I'm saying to take it easy on the transitions, I'm not saying that you should let the horse block energy and "suck back". The true benefit of having your horse "ahead of your leg" is not just so that you can dance along in unison. It is so that he can carry your weight better, be softer and more supple in his body, and be better balanced overall. So don't give up on that much needed energy - let it wash over your horse and make him stay strong.

Maintain Roundness While Being Ridden

Roundness, or "over the back", or longitudinal flexion, is essential in maintaining the functions of the top line muscles. Many older horses will naturally begin to lose top line, because there may be some reduction in muscling overall. So put that extra effort into developing suppleness over the back and help your horse stay limber longer.

Keep Your Friends Guessing!

Invariably, there will come the day when a new friend says, "You're horse is HOW old??"

That is when you know you're on track to helping your horse maintain his best self as he ages in good health.

While these ideas are designed to maintain mobility with the least amount of stress, do keep fussing over your horse. Give him the same attention you always have - groomings, baths, hanging out with friends while your horse gets to hand graze - and you will have an interested, active horse for years to come!

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

Horse Listening The Book
Click to learn more.

Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

Available as an eBook or paperback.

Read More Here:

https://www.horselistening.com2013/06/01/hl-on-the-dressage-radio-show-yes/

https://www.horselistening.com2013/03/11/42-ways-to-play-learn-and-grow-with-your-horse/

https://www.horselistening.com2013/03/08/5-common-horse-and-riding-myths/

https://www.horselistening.com2012/10/29/10-ways-on-how-not-to-buy-your-dream-horse/

https://www.horselistening.com2012/06/29/14-reasons-to-love-horseback-riding/

The Many Uses Of The Oval (Exercise)

oval exerciseRide the circle but don't diss the oval!

The oval is rarely talked about in dressage circles (see the pun?) but it can be used quite successfully for many purposes. While a circle is helpful in establishing a bend and encouraging better use of the horse's hind end, the oval offers something that the circle does not: the straight line that occurs in between two turns.

If you want to throw a little line into your circles, the oval is a great option. The horse has to learn to not only bend and adjust the hind end activity for the circle, but then he can use that increased activity to take into a line. The line allows the horse an opportunity to move more forward, increase the stride length and reach ahead. Think expansion after compaction.

Then comes the next turn. Back to engagement of the hind end, bending, and using the inside hind leg deeper under the body.

Exercise

Try this exercise for some challenging balance and transition development. 

Transition points are in the middle of each turn section.

- Start with a trot as you come out of the turn into the straight line. Go up the line at trot (probably should use a shoulder-fore to ensure straightness). 

- Begin the next turn in trot. Transition to canter in the middle of the turn. 

- Finish the next turn and head into the straight line in canter.

- Transition back to trot in the middle of the new turn.

Keep going! Do it a few times, then you can take a walk break and change directions.

If you want to increase difficulty, do walk-canter transitions. 

If you think you're ready for it, try canter-counter-canter transitions through walk (as in, canter in the true lead for half the oval, and counter canter in the other half). 🙂

Possible Problems and Corrections

Correct ovals can be difficult to master, considering the various balance shifts and bend changes. If you can be aware of potential problems, you can help support your horse through the oval to help him (and you!) maintain the best balance he can as he goes through the exercises.

I've added several links to further reading, if you need more information.

Crookedness

The oval is a great tool to show you just how straight you and your horse really are. Any drifting, falling in, or shoulder-bulging will become very evident as you negotiate the end of a turn and head into the straight line.

Horse drifts out: Use a strong enough (as much as needed, as little as possible) neck rein to keep your horse's shoulders moving on the turn and not drifting out. You can add outside leg to help keep the hips on the line and a mild open rein on the inside rein to invite the shoulders a bit to the inside (shoulder-fore) if needed.

Horse falls in: Use a direct inside rein combined with an open outside rein to help invite the outside shoulder to stay on the track. Also use your inside leg and seat bone to push the horse outward.

Shoulder-Bulging: By this, I mean that the horse leans (or "falls") on one shoulder or the other. It can happen on the inside shoulder or the outside, depending on the crookedness of the horse, even if the horse still moves in a straight line. In either case, ride with two direct reins (with contact but not pulling), hands in front of the saddle by the withers, and don't let the horse take the reins away from you. Stabilize yourself through strong elbows on your body and tight core, and you can stabilize the horse too.

Add some leg for impulsion and get the horse to straighten thanks to the forward energy.

Speeding Up On The Line

Many horses will have a tendency to speed up after they round the final part of the turn. The extra energy and strength achieved by the turn will prompt them to speed up their legs and head off into the sunset! Beware of that extra tempo, because extra speed invariably means falling to the forehand.

You can't let all the energy just fly out the "front door", so to speak. This is where half-halts are essential in helping to keep the horse balanced and moving uphill as much as possible. Maintain the leg speed by half-halting even as you turn the last corner before the straight line. Then half-halt as needed as you straighten.

Your horse will begin to predict the balance control after you do this a few times. Always remember - you don't want the leg speed to increase. If anything, you want the stride length to increase. Not the speed!

"Sucking Back" on the Turn

The opposite can happen as you come into a turn. Your horse might actually disengage in the hind end - shorten his stride, hollow his back a bit, slow down... think that he leaves his hind end out behind him. You might actually feel like he becomes more comfortable as he moves less and stops swinging through the back.

It's perfectly reasonable for a horse to do this as he enters a turn, because negotiating a turn off a straight line takes work and strength. In this case, you will need to be aware and feel it coming on. Use both legs to encourage your horse forward, and use your reins to prepare for the bend and turn aids.




Again, you're not trying to get your horse to launch off to oblivion, but you are working on maintaining the energy you acquired on the straight line.

Using the Rail For the Turn

This is generally a rider problem. Sure, the horse might want to drift to the rail, but the track the horse takes is always determined by the rider.

Because it's a rider problem, it can be easily fixed! Make sure that you turn off the rail early, not at the end of your ring. Teach your horse that he can come off the rail at any point on the line. Then head to the opposite rail off the end of the ring as well.

You can also work on staying a few feet off the rail itself when you're on the straight line. Practice teaching the horse to move straight on his own, not using the rail for direction. If you have a large ring, this can be easily done. It's harder to do in a small ring, but you can make a point of staying off the rail even in that case.

Well, have fun with this exercise and let us know how it went in the comments below! What did you find success at? What was the challenging part? What do you need to change to improve you and your horse's balance as you negotiate the transitions and bend?

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions.

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

Goal Setting For The Equestrian
Click to learn more.

If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look our Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.

Included in the book:

  • design your overarching goals
  • long- and short-term planning,
  • debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
  • reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
  • sample goals and pages

The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.

Click here for more information. 

The Essential Open Rein

open rein
Right open rein. My wrists could be more upright (thumbs on top). Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Depending on whom you talk to, the open rein may be considered the "go to" aid, or the one rein aid with the bad rap. Many people move onto more sophisticated rein aids fairly soon in their riding process, convinced that the open rein is only for the young or the inexperienced.

The thing is, this rein aid is like the letter "a" in the alphabet. You simply can't start reading without knowing how it works and what it can do. Even when you become a fully mature, experienced reader, you can't just drop that letter in favor of all the others. It's always there, ready to be used in different ways, in a variety of circumstances.

And so it goes with the open rein.

What is the open rein?

It's the simplest, most basic rein aid we learn. It is of course useful in all the disciplines and with all types of bridles because of its primary effect, which is to invite the horse into the open space created by the rein action.

To open the rein, you simply move it away from the horse's neck, in the intended direction. Note that you don't pull back while you open. The pressure on the rein should be the same as it was when your hand was close to the neck. Your elbow should still be on your side as usual (i.e. don't open your elbow in the direction as well - no "chicken wings!"). The opening comes from your forearm as it moves away from the horse's neck.

The rein should be only 4 to 6 inches off the horse's neck. It doesn't need to open wide, or for you to take your hand to your knee (however tempting that may be at times). In fact, as you get better at opening the rein, you can reduce the distance from the horse's neck. Most advanced horse and riders can find the smallest open rein as useful as a wide one. Think maybe 2 inches off the neck as you progress in your balance and aids.

It sounds so simple, right? Just like the letter "a". Once you know the sounds (short and long a), you're ready to read every word it's used in!

Till you come across the more complicated words!

There's more to it than that.

So here's the thing with the open rein. Although that rein is fairly simple, it can't happen on its own. There have to be supporting aids that go along with it. So while you're working on the one rein, you have to coordinate your seat, outside rein and leg aids at the same time.

Otherwise, you will accomplish little. The only thing that happens if you use the open rein in isolation is that you literally turn the horse's nose in the direction of the pressure. He may or may not follow that pressure (has your horse ever moved in the opposite direction of the rein aid?). He may swing his neck in the direction and lose his straightness. He may also lose balance and engagement.

So in reality, the open rein isn't for the faint hearted!

When can you use an open rein?

Here are five common situations in which you could use an open rein to encourage better balance, throughness, impulsion and suppleness, depending on the situation. I'll start at the beginning for a beginner rider and horse, and then develop into more advanced use.

1. New Rider

The new rider clearly benefits  from learning the open rein. As hand-dominated human beings, we are always pointing toward the objects of our attention. One of the most intuitive ways to learn to direct a horse is to essentially "point" with the rein. Open the rein to the direction you want to move in, and the better educated horse will comply.

However, you should also use your entire body and outside rein to support the open rein. Click here to read a detailed description of how the body and reins can work as one to achieve a turn from the whole body, rather than from just a rein.

2. Young or Uneducated Horse

The open rein is one of the first rein aids a young horse will learn, even if more developed rein aids are introduced shortly thereafter.

Used with the supporting aids from the rider's body, the open rein will teach the horse that pressure on the mouth translates into movement in a direction. It is an uncomplicated aid and naturally invites the horse to step into the opening created by the rein.

3. Straighten The Outside Shoulder

Does your horse have a tendency to "drop in" to the turn or circle? This means that when you turn, the horse cuts the circle toward the inside of the ring, thereby not really staying on the arc of the circle at all. You are lucky that your great seat can follow his trajectory, otherwise, you would continue on the circle (horseless) while he heads off somewhere completely different!

In this instance, the outside open rein can act as a correction.

A slight open rein on the outside will invite the outside shoulder to stay where it is and prevent it from falling in. In effect, you're creating some space to help encourage the shoulder to stay on the arc of the circle (straight on the circle). This is straightness.




You also need a direct inside rein (the rein that goes straight from the horse's mouth to your elbow, parallel to the horse's neck) as a support. This rein will also help to keep the horse's head from turning completely to the outside.

4. Invite Flexion

A mild open rein will invite the horse to turn his head just enough for you to be able to see the corner of his inside eye. That way, he will be looking in the direction of travel. Flexion is the beginning of softening of the poll, throughness and maintaining balance.

The inside open rein, coupled with an active inside leg, will encourage the horse to flex to the inside. You can also use an outside direct or neck rein (depending on if the horse is on a straight line or on a turn) to prevent overflexion to the outside. Flexion is the beginning of bend, so with the correct seat and leg aids, you can progress to bend as the horse becomes more educated.

5. Shift Weight To The Outside

This is the most complicated use of the open rein, and follows flexion.

Using an inside open rein (and outside rein as described above), and an active inside seat bone and leg, you can actually ask the horse to step out, away from the opening rein. This can be very helpful when you want to shift the horse's weight off the inside shoulder, and initiate a flexion or bend at the same time.

It also allows the horse to learn to step straight through with the inside shoulder rather than fall in or duck toward the middle of the ring (similar to #3 above, but focusing on the inside shoulder instead). A straight inside shoulder can be a big help when it comes to allowing the energy through the body - which means improved impulsion, throughness and suppleness. 

I'm sure there are other uses for the open rein that I haven't thought of. Let us know in the comments below what your experience with the open rein is, and how you use it in your rides.

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

Goal Setting For The Equestrian
Click to learn more.

If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look at the new Goal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.

Included in the book:

  • design your overarching goals
  • long- and short-term planning,
  • debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
  • reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
  • sample goals and pages

The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.

Click here for more information.

Keep It Interesting: Routine Riding Versus The Pop Quiz

happy-horse-800x1024 bw
Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

This article is for those riders who feel they are in a plateau.

You know....

When you feel like there's little progress being made.

When it seems that all you can do is ride the same thing over and over again.

When there is little external influence to make you change anything in your program.

When you feel you know it all! (Is that even a possibility?)

When you find yourself going round and round in circles, just doing whatever comes up. Maybe a trot here, a canter there. Then back to trot, and then walk.

*Note: You can use these ideas whether you do ring work, jumps, trail obstacles or go on the trail. Just take these ideas and make them your own in whatever way you are riding (or doing ground work).

Develop A Routine

To be sure, there is something to be said for developing a routine in your daily rides. Both you and your horse can feel assured that your ride will be within your means, comfortable and enjoyable. Riding in a routine can give you opportunity to fine tune your skills. You can work from a place of confidence and emanate that feeling to your horse.

Routine allows you to become predictable with your requests. This in turn will earn your horse's trust in you, the riding session and his overall riding experience. Developing a solid, predictable routine will help your horse (and yourself) especially if:

  • you are a new rider
  • you are riding a young or inexperienced horse
  • your horse is new to you
  • the environment is new to the horse

Earn Trust

You can earn trust by being a predictable rider.

If you can ride with consistency, your horse will begin to know what is coming next. In many situations, there is nothing better than able to predict what is going to happen. This way, your horse will not associate scary, uncomfortable or distressing feelings to you and your ride.

Routine can promote confidence from your horse (which will, in turn, develop your confidence in your horse), allowing both of you to know that you're working together as a team. You boost each other up, you develop mutual strengths.

If you ride consistently enough, your horse may even begin to help. He may take more initiative and anticipate the next movement, or to maintain the gait until you do something else. You won't have to set up the conditions as much and enjoy the ride more. There is something positive about letting the horse take more responsibility in the movements of the ride.



But there is a time when things become too routine.

There will come a time when you want to challenge yourself into new frontiers. Let's face it. Doing the  same thing, being predictable, and sticking to a routine - permanently - might also have a few drawbacks.

Pop Quiz!

Here's how you keep things interesting.

Stepping out of your comfort-zone can be nerve-wrecking at times, but it can also be invigorating. Being less predictable encourages you and your horse to become more tuned into each other. It also allows you to try things you don't normally do.

Do the regular routine ride, but throw in a few pop quizzes! It's ok to create a little challenge every now and then to see where you're at. It also gives your horse a chance to come out of his routine-induced snooze!

Change It Up!

Do something completely off-topic. If you've been working on transitions, switch it up and go for a 2-minute canter around the ring! Or conversely, work on developing your turn on the haunches after a stretch of steady movement.

Essentially, do something you haven't done in a while. Get creative. Push you and your horse out of your comfort zone - even for just a few minutes. Try something from another discipline! If you rarely do pole work, get that pole out and try a sidepass in each direction! Or if your routinely do the sidepass, put that pole higher and go for a small jump!

Do something that will completely take you out of your established zone. Let you and your horse deal with a little bit of discomfort or insecurity. You can always go back to your routine work and re-establish your sense of comfort.

That pop quiz will help in more ways than one. Aside from the obvious skill development, it will also help you and your horse develop a deeper sense of focus. You'll have to communicate at a higher level because of the unfamiliarity of the pop quiz movement. The sense of togetherness (or "tuning in" to each other) will also be improved as you try something new.

Timing Is Everything

Use the pop quiz when your horse least expects it. Spread it out - do something after your first warm-up. Do something different after your main lesson part of the ride. And save one for the end as well - after you've cooled down! Maybe after you've walked for the last 5 minutes, shorten your reins and go for a quick "canter-walk-canter in the new lead - walk" transition sequence - on a straight line!

Then call it a day.

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more.

Horse Listening

I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

Horse Listening Book 2
Click to learn more.

Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success

Stop printing off the articles! Your favorite training articles are compiled in this beautifully bound paperback book. Have everything at your fingertips - this book can be taken to the barn as a quick refresher or leisurely read at home.

From Horse Listening Book 2: Forward And Round To Training Success
"Regardless of discipline, what would be the most significant effect a rider would want to have on her horse?
We all want our horses to improve in their athletic
development, skill acquisition and connectedness. Much of our rider development and training efforts go into working toward our show or personal goals....
But the best riders aspire to do one essential thing each and every day, regardless of goals and lesson plans: they work hard to improve their horse’s way of going.
Because proper balance and weight carriage is essential to a horse’s longevity. Each and every minute of each and every ride has the potential to contribute to your horse’s health and well-being.
Or not."
Just as with all the Horse Listening Collection Books, this book is focused on helping the rider improve for the sake of the horse. But this book goes deeper into the best training articles from the blog - horse-centered theory, strategies and ideas you can try with your own horse.
The book begins with the horse's hind end (!), considers the horse's back, moves on to rider development, and fills it all in with the fundamentals of horse riding so your horse can be:
☑️ happier in his body
☑️happier in his "work"
☑️better balanced all-around
Click here for more information: https://www.horselistening.combook/

More reading here:

https://www.horselistening.com2013/05/22/20-ways-horse-riding-becomes-life-itself/

https://www.horselistening.com2013/05/03/first-plan-your-ride-then-be-ready-to-scrap-it/

https://www.horselistening.com2013/03/13/what-responsible-horse-ownership-really-means/

https://www.horselistening.com2012/12/17/do-you-want-to-own-a-horse/

https://www.horselistening.com2012/11/27/5-life-lessons-from-horses/