Three Steps To “Brilliance” In Horse Riding

Brilliance
Photo Credit: NBanaszak Photography

Let's say you and your horse are doing pretty well in all your movements.

Let's also say that you've got a good grasp of the aids, and are using them effectively.

So you do well, especially if you show, but even if you don't. You ride almost imperceptibly and your horse moves along with accuracy.

What's next?

You could learn new skills. Challenge yourself and your horse with movements you haven't done before, that require more collection or self-carriage.

Or, you could work on what you already know - only make it better.

Brilliance

In dressage, we often talk about this evasive concept of "brilliance". Lots of people can get the job done, but not everyone can achieve "brilliance".

It's more than just putting down a pattern, although the pattern is an essential component.

It's more than the movements, although the movements are enhanced by brilliance.

You can't take your eyes off brilliance. You somehow become captivated by the performance in front of you. Time stands still, and you find yourself teleported into an equine-driven story that mesmerizes you and stops your breath.

The rider almost seems to disappear. The horse seems to love every second.

Brilliance can be demonstrated in a show environment, competitive activity, or just in your back yard. You can find brilliance in the nearest riding ring, in any discipline and in any riding style.

But the key question is: how do you develop it?

The First Step: Lateral Flexion and Bend

Maintaining a steady lateral position in the direction of movement is the first key to relaxation for the horse.

Flexion refers to the horse looking in the direction of travel. It is achieved by turning the head in toward the arc of the turn, at the amount needed. So if you are on a large circle, only a small amount of flexion is needed.

The inside hand (and rein) is responsible for flexion. Make sure your own shoulders are "open" into the direction you're going in. Don't point your shoulders left while riding right! Use small finger squeezes to encourage your horse to look into the direction of travel. The smaller the circle, the more the horse should be looking in.

Bend happens in the body, and is the result of the horse "wrapping around" your inside leg. So bend is initiated by your inside leg. The horse's body should be bent into the turn pretty much to the same degree as the horse's head. So a large circle requires a fairly small bend while smaller circles should get the most bend through the horse's body.

Position your inside leg at the girth, and your outside leg behind the girth. Encourage your horse to shift away from your inside leg as you apply pressure. Your seat should also be pointing into the direction of movement and you should have more weight on the inside seat bone.

But there's more to brilliance than just bend and flexion.

The Second Step: Longitudinal Flexion

This is a fancy term for developing "roundness" in your horse. To me, longitudinal means "over the top line". The more flexion you have over the back, the rounder your horse moves and feels. The horse reaches deeper with the hind legs, the back rises (and drops equally in rhythm with the stride), the neck elevation rises and the neck gets thicker near the withers. You might see the neck muscles begin to contract and relax in the movement (as opposed to not being able to see any muscle movement at all).

Essentially, your horse begins to collect, even if only a little.

How much your horse can step underneath the body with his hind legs dictates how round he can get. The rounder he can get, the freer he can move in his body, and the better he can carry your weight. Roundness is an important part of "freeness", meaning that he can allow the energy you initiate come through his body and into the movement itself.

Longitudinal flexion dictates how flashy the horse can look. Even the flattest horse can develop animated, sweeping movement when he begins to learn to round.

Develop better roundness through energizing the horse with legs and seat, and half-halting and releasing in time so that the horse doesn't just move faster or change gait. Rather, you want him to move bigger, stronger, rounder (you have to ride that way in your seat too).

Third step: Activity

Your horse can have lateral and longitudinal flexion but still be a little short of "brilliance". That is because there is another key component that acts as the icing on the cake.

Here's one tip: you can probably never have enough activity in your horse's movement. So just when you think you have enough energy and bounce, you can probably add a shade more.

More movement, more energy, more freedom. (psst!! Not faster!)

Even if you work at a relatively slow pace (think western pleasure), you can still encourage more activity. Keep the flexions and work on allowing, or even developing, your horse's ability to move freely, especially in the front end.

The energy should not be stifled, but rather let through the body.




There should be no tension - in the topline, the underline, or anywhere else. The horse should look active but relaxed at the same time.

And the clincher - if all this falls into place together at the same time, he will appear happy. Think snorts, floppy ears, bright eyes, soft poll and jaw. Enthusiastic. Interested.

And What About You?

Well, the beauty of riding in brilliance is that all the attention is taken away from you. Your job is to disappear into the horse, becoming only a prop as he does his thing.

Of course, we all know there is a lot more to it than that. But that is what it looks like.

One more note: brilliance doesn't happen every time you ride, although you can encourage it using the three steps above.

It doesn't even necessarily happen over the course of a whole ride. You might find brilliance one movement at a time, or minutes at a time. Don't worry. Keep working toward adding together moments of brilliance until you can maintain it longer and longer. It is a skill that can be developed - both of you can work toward it.

Can you think of other aspects to achieving brilliance in riding? Let us know in the comments below.

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9 Amazing Effects From Activating the Horse’s Back While Riding

active back

The active back is something we all strive for regardless of our riding disciplines. In theory, we know that it is a good thing to encourage the horse to "work through his back." We know that the hollow back is detrimental in more ways than one, and we regularly continue to use our aids in a way that encourages the horse to use his back through movement.

But what exactly is the result of an active back? What does it look and feel like?

Here are some ideas. Although it is easier to feel these results in the trot, you should be able to get similar feels in the canter.

1) "Swing" Through the Back and Shoulders

When the horse uses his back, he is engaging his abdominals more, which in turn allows the legs to flow better in the movement. Through the back's lifting and falling, the horse's legs seem to be freed and suddenly, the movement becomes looser and bouncier. If you can't feel the swing in your horse's back, you might be able to see the shoulders take rounder, more lofty strides.

2) Steadier Rhythm

An active back helps to stop the staccato sewing machine trot and because of the increased swing, allows a more relaxed, purposeful rhythm. The strides feel more balanced and controlled. They tempo settles and the legs seem to have more time to come through during each stride.

3) Deeper Stride

As the rhythm settles, the hind legs are freer to reach further underneath the body. The hind end tucks under, allowing more weight to be carried toward the hind end. The horse's balance improves and perhaps even the level of your contact improves.

4) More Ground Cover

A deeper stride generally translates into increased ground cover. If you notice that the horse seems to be travelling further without moving his legs faster, you have probably lifted the horse's back.

5) Release of Tension

All this improvement in balance translates into a softness that can become a release of tension. With improved swing, the horse might stop bracing through the shoulders and then the neck and jaw. He might start breathing deeper and eventually let out a body shaking snort. At this point, if you can keep the hind end active, you will be able to influence a continued release of tension which originates in energy coming from the hind end.

6) Rounding

As the horse releases and develops a better balance, he begins to round his back. His neck arches and his poll and jaw soften - with little effort on your part. This happens as a side-effect from impulsion and subsequent release.

7) Better Lateral and Longitudinal Suppleness

Release from tension allows the horse to be more limber, both over the top-line and side to side. So if you can get the horse to engage his back, you might also discover that bending left and right becomes much easier. If you can clearly position yourself into the bend, the horse should have an easier time following your lead.

8) Soft Eyes/Ears

Don't be surprised if your horse seems to relax into a soft-eared happy place as he begins to enjoy the tension releases. If you can encourage this feeling often enough, the horse will learn to enjoy your rides and release sooner in the ride.




9) Slobber

And this is the final pièce de resistance. As we already know, slobber is connected to the swinging of the back. Even if you can't tell whether your horse is "through" and active in the back, you will certainly notice the "white lipstick" as it develops in the corners of the horse's mouth.

How to encourage the horse to lift his back

Well, this one is a little more difficult than just reading an article. You probably need feedback from your instructor to learn to really feel the active back and recognize the above signs. However, I can give you a place to begin.

Start with the leg, then seat, then half-halt combination. I know that I keep mentioning the same aids but pretty much any balancing or rebalancing starts from these aids.

Then add transitions. Start with progressive changes of gait - trot/walk/trot or trot/canter/trot. Allow the increased energy to flow over the horse's topline by moving your seat in harmony with the horse's increased impulsion. Stay in the middle gait (walk or canter) only for a few strides.

You are using the transitions for better use of the hind end, so come back to the trot within three or four strides and work with the resulting energy to improve the horse's movement. The active back happens as the energy begins to travel over the horse's topline.

If you have a chance to try this, leave us a note in the comments to let us know how it went. 

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the new Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

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I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!

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Frame, Round or Collection?

Round - note the deep stepping hind legs, lightly lifted back, and general forward flow to the movement.

Which shall it be? Do you know the difference, and in a pinch, would you be able to identify it in a moving horse? Better yet, can you feel the difference when you are riding?

We use these words all the time. We "frame" our horse, we get him to "round" and we regularly work on "collection". But often, although we're sure we are working on something, we don't really know what to call it. We throw the words around randomly, seeking to describe the feeling we know exists, but not knowing the nuances between the three.

To be perfectly honest, many of our horses are rarely, if ever, collected.

 (Click here to tweet that if you agree.)

These words are not interchangeable.

The three terms are distinct in meaning, appearance and feel. Knowing the difference between them helps you to distinguish between the level of engagement your horse is working at.

The "Frame"

Simply put, a horse is "framed up" when it is travelling in a pre-determined outline. 

There may be the high frame, which essentially means that the neck is higher than the withers, and there may be the level frame, where the neck is at the height of the withers. In either case, the frame is usually being held in place by rein action (the hands). In comparison to no frame at all, riding in a frame might feel more comfortable and easier on both the rider and the horse.

The dilemma is that regardless of the placement of the head and neck, the back continues to be hollow and the hind end is disengaged. The horse moves on the forehand. The hind legs do not track up to the front footprints, and the front legs stride larger than the hind legs. Often, this body position is held in place by the hands. There is little or no release of the reins and the frame is being protected by a backward pressure that traps the horse's front end and restricts the hind end.

The best giveaway to a frame is that the horse falls out of the frame - either farther forward on the forehand, or the head and neck arches up and the back hollows even more. The claim to fame of the frame is that it does not maintain itself without either constant pressure from the hands, or momentary "jerks" on the mouth to communicate to the horse that it should keep its posture in place.

"Round"

 A horse travels "round" if there is a certain level of engagement from the hind end. The hind legs reach further forward underneath the body, and the hind stride length approaches the same distance as the front legs. Due to this reach, the hind end dips down slightly while the front end levels out or rises slightly higher than the withers. A round horse is bearing its weight more on the hind end, freeing up the front end to be more expressive and fluid. The rider's weight is carried more evenly with a mildly lifted back.
release of the reins allows the horse to stride "forward" toward the contact. There is a better sense of freedom in movement than in the framed up horse. To be round, the horse must be "on the bit" (go here for an excellent description),"on the aids" and moving with better "connection."

"Collection"

Typically, horses in collection move up and down more than forward, so collection is desired especially in events such as reining, western trail and dressage.



In dressage, collection is the highest level of training for the horse. In other words, travelling while collected is difficult and requires a sophisticated level of balance, mental/emotional control, and understanding from the horse. The collected horse has developed the strength to tilt the haunches so the hind legs are far underneath the body, and the front end (head and neck included) are at the highest point. The horse moves in an "uphill" manner.

Collection is achieved primarily by the seat and legs. The hands are the last to act, and ideally, serve to "catch and recycle" the energy produced by the seat and legs. The horse is not kept in place - the collected appearance is the result of the activity of the hind end. Let go of both reins, and the horse should stay in collection for several strides.

"Collection itself, however, is a state attained only after many years of patient, systematic, gymnastic work, which is made evident in a shorter, higher, rounder, more active stride. It is to be attained solely through greater balancing of the horse on the hindquarters, based on forward impulse - and not merely by shortening up the horse from the front. The horse's motion must remain forward, fluid, and energetic, and must always continue to show the correct footfall in all gaits. The hallmark of true collection is a clear lowering of the croup, brought about by the deeply bent, engaged haunches that carry more weight." (Herbermann, 1999, p.67)

To be perfectly honest, many of our horses are rarely, if ever, collected. Much of the time, we are working in a degree of roundness - whether more or less round - rather than in collection. 

All this talk begs the question:

Why bother?

That shall be a topic for another day!

Reference:

Herbermann, E., (1999). Dressage Formula, Third Ed., J.A.Allen, London.  p.67

Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!

Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the new Horse Listening Practice Sessions. 

This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.

Click here to read more and to join one of the most complete programs on the Internet!

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Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book: Stepping Forward to Effective Riding

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When Do You Start Riding Your Horse? This question was being posed to me by a very respected and horse-wise mentor.

Do You Make This Timing Mistake When Riding Your Horse? The timing of the aids has to do with everything.

When “Good Enough” Just Isn’t Good Enough In Horseback Riding: Hate to tell you this, but you DO have to get out of your own back yard!