This is where all riding begins, even if people tell you otherwise.
The seat is the main contact area with the horse. While we often speak of contact through the reins, we often neglect to think about the amazing power of connection you can have with your seat.
The seat is responsible for:
your balance
your horse's balance
half-halts
driving aids (bigger stride)
turning aids (point the seat in the direction of the turn)
transition aids (up or down)
maintenance of the gaits
"harmonization" (because if you can release through your seat, the rest of your body can follow)
Unfortunately, because we often want to just get going on the horse, we tend to focus more on the leg and hand aids simply because we want to have control and safety around the horse first.
However, if you ever have the opportunity, developing your seat aids and coordination before anything else is the quickest, most efficient, and more importantly, most effective route to control, safety and balance. There is no replacement for lunge lessons, if you can find them, because it is only by being lunged that you can focus on developing the muscle memory in your core - the type of movements that you really have little control over and can't will into being. It's purely physical, and by allowing someone else to control your horse, you can just work your body until it can do all the micro-adjustments on its own.
Off the lunge line, you still need to begin every aid and movement from the seat. Want to turn? Turn from your set (and then your upper body and legs can follow). Want to trot? Trot from your seat first (and then your legs can aid as needed). Want to stop? (Stop your seat and only after that, take pressure on the reins if you have to). Need to ride through a buck or over-exuberant duck-and-turn? Release through your seat and let it stick on the horse - the rest of you will follow!
I'm sure you can think of many other purposes for the seat, and I will list a few articles below that I've already written about it through the years. Suffice it to say that any riding on horseback must start with the seat. There is no other way!
How have you developed your riding seat? Comment below.
Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!
Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the new Horse Listening Practice Sessions.
This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.
Now is the time to re-evaluate your goals and path to riding success!
If you’d like a structured, but personal tool to set goals, take a look ourGoal Setting for the Equestrian: A Personal Workbook. The pages are designed for you to set and keep track of your progress over the course of a year.
Included in the book:
design your overarching goals
long- and short-term planning,
debrief your special events such as clinics or shows
reflect on, plan and evaluate your goals
sample goals and pages
The Workbook is available for instant digital download so you can print the pages right off your computer. There is also the option of a paperback version if you’d rather have a professionally bound book to hold in your hands.
While the leg aids change little between the walk and trot, the canter does require some change in function and coordination.
Even when riders seem to know what they're doing, there may be some confusion about the fine tuning of the aids. Students often ask me to review especially the leg aids for the canter to make sure they are asking for the correct lead, and timing the aid in a way that helps the horse the most.
Basic aids
The basic aids are the way you first learn to ask for the canter. This method helps the rider find and keep balance especially as the horse changes gait and takes that first step into the canter.
1. Inside leg at the girth
The inside leg must stay at the girth. This leg might not have to do much in terms of squeezing at the calf but it is important in case the horse falls in on the inside shoulder. Many horses will lean into a turn or come off the straight line when they move into the canter, and the inside leg is the aid that helps keep the horse straight through the transition.
Put pressure with the lower leg and calf if your horse falls in. Wait for the horse to straighten up before you apply the outside leg, even if it takes a few strides before he's ready. If he doesn't fall in, you can apply both legs almost simultaneously (inside leg should go first though).
2. Outside leg behind the girth
I call this the "windshield wiper" leg. If you can free your leg at the knees, you can "swoosh" your lower leg back behind the girth, and basically teach the horse to take that first step with the outside hind leg as you swing your leg back. Please note that the leg doesn't have to stay far back behind the girth, though it should be positioned a little further back than the inside leg to be effective in keeping the hip straight and asking for the correct lead.
In general, you shouldn't have to apply a lot of pressure with the outside leg.
3. Seat
Well, I'd be remiss to not mention the seat here, even though I know I'm focusing on the leg aids.
The seat really is THE aid that indicates the gait change. In other words, your legs position the horse's body so he doesn't swing in with the shoulders, or swing out with the hips... but really, it's the seat that indicates the canter.
Just to keep it short - you position yourself so you are sitting tall on the inside seat bone, and you switch your seat rhythm from the trot to the canter. You can sit the last few trot steps so you can be in the saddle for the transition.
Please Note
Notice that I didn't mention a kick in any of the aids.
Sometimes I get questions about why I don't want to kick into the transition, and I realize it might be a little controversial for me to say this. However, in theory, the strike off for the canter does not need the rider to bang the horse on the sides and throw her weight forward (or fall behind backward). In fact, the quieter you can be, the better it is for the horse (and invariably, for you as you negotiate the balance change into the canter).
If your horse absolutely won't canter without a kick, then yes, go to the kick. But I encourage riders to work toward first positioning the legs as above, second exaggerating the windshield wiper outside leg, third changing the seat to a canter movement, and FOURTH - kicking with both legs. Then work toward weaning your horse off that kick, and become quieter in your position.
The Upper Body
The idea is to not fall forward or backward through the transition. Many of us want to collapse forward in attempt to encourage the horse to "go forward" - but changing from the trot (or walk) to canter is not really going forward at all.
In fact, it's more about changing the horse's legs. It's not about going faster, or getting longer in the body, or pulling on the horse to keep him shorter, or anything at all. There should really be no change (in our dreams!) other than the legs going from the two-beat trot, to the three-beat canter with an easily heard moment of suspension.
Ideally, the first step in the canter should be bold and strong, but not runaway. The next steps should be the same. You should clearly hear the three-beat rhythm of the footfalls. The canter should be round (not flat), ground-covering (not fast) and consistent (not slow down-speed up - slow down - speed up).
The Hands
This article is about the legs, so I won't go much into the hands except to say that they really shouldn't do much. 🙂
Ideally, they'd maintain the horse's flexion and bend. The rein might need to be shortened a little (an inch or so) if the reins were long-ish at the trot. Otherwise, there's little to do other than not interfere.
Now that I've shared my version of the leg aids for canter, I'd love to hear yours. What problems have you had with the transition to canter? What solutions have you found over the years? Share in the comments below.
Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!
Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions.
This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.
I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!
Click to learn more.
Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book:Stepping Forward to Effective Riding
From the book:
"There are many reasons why we enjoy riding horses. Maybe one of the most appealing facets of riding is the sense of freedom: freedom from our own limitations, freedom from gravity, freedom to (literally) roam the Earth. Time stands still while we have the privilege of feeling movement from the back of our four-legged friend.
Riding gives us the place to just be.
Of course, there are other purposes too. Some of us revel in the challenge of learning the skills required to becoming a good team member of this unlikely duo. Riding is like no other sport or recreational pursuit simply because of the equine partner that must not only carry us, but also do so effortlessly and gracefully. As we develop our specific skill sets, we also grow as human beings in character, emotional maturity and mental acuity.
But there is one other motivation that drives some of us to persevere in the never-ending learning process that is horseback riding: improving the horse. As your own skills develop, you begin to realize that not only can you meet your own needs through riding, but also that you can even become an instrument of benefit for the horse."
And so begins the book that reflects the most important learning I have had in all of my riding years: that I want to be the best rider I can be for the sake of my horses.
This book is geared toward the rider:
- the rider's motivations
- the essential skills for the rider
- some specific strategies
- solutions to common problems
- and the results: the great horsey moments we get to experience
Along the way, you will find chapters that discuss everything from the seat to the leg aids to the reins, discussions on half-halts, imbalance, halts, straightness and more!
Special in this book are the "In The Ring" sections that give specific suggestions based on the preceding chapters. Take these to the barn to try with your own horse!
Recently, I was inspired to think about my "journey" in discovering an effective (enough) seat that has allowed me to progress further than I ever thought possible in my own riding. I've harped on riding from your seat before (see the links at the end of this article), but thinking back, I remember how I went through so many realizations as I progressed.
Here are some of the lessons learned over the years as I focused on developing my seat.
You use muscles you didn't even know you had.
I'm not exaggerating! If you're not used to riding from the seat, the muscles you might feel the next few days are deep in your lower abs. Hard to access but evidently clear after a good ride!
Your seat is more than just your "seat".
The seat includes everything from above your knee to your hips. Your lower back helps a lot too.
The lower back is essential in freeing up your seat.
Speaking of which, if you have a stiff lower back, you'll tend to have a hard time using your seat effectively and in control. Place one hand in the small of your backto help isolate the region which needs to release and contract as your horse moves.
You can develop nerve endings in interesting places.
As you become used to riding from the seat, you will develop an ability to "feel" the horse - his back, the movement of his hind legs, how round or hollow he is, and even the quality of your contact. Don't ask me how it happens. I was as surprised as you will be!
Your seat bones can be awfully strong when used correctly.
Try putting a hand under your seat bone while your horse is walking. First off, you'll know if your seat bone is really moving with the horse. But also, you might actually feel the effect of your seat bone. Dressage saddles are designed to help your horse feel the seat bones through the tree, but really, all the saddles will allow similar communication regardless of style.
You can walk on your seat bones much like you walk on your legs.
Have you ever tried that? As the horse walks, "walk" on your seat bones. Don't sway your hips side to side though - step forward and back in each seat bone in rhythm with the horse's belly swing.
The horse really appreciates being ridden from the seat.
My mare, Annahi, was the first horse to "tell" me about it. She changed so much, so dramatically, after my first few attempts, that I was sold immediately. In those early stages, "finding my seat" was quite difficult though, so I would be effective for a few strides and then not again for quite a while.
You can see the results of the effective seat more than you can see the seat being used.
The seat aid is mostly a feeling between you and your horse. While it is a definite aid and you certainly can use it intentionally, it would be difficult for an observer on the ground to actually see what you did with your seat. However, the horse's response is clearly evident when you know what to look for.
The seat aids must follow and reinforce the leg aids.
If you're used to using your legs and then waiting for the horse to respond, you'll find it difficult at first to activate your seat. But if you work at it, you'll see that your seat has the ability to embellish your leg aids like nothing else.
There is more than just one way to use your seat.
There is the passive seat, the driving seat, the restricting seat, the light seat, the heavy seat, the inviting seat. I'm sure there's more. Each takes time to develop.
You can shape your horse's outline from your seat better than from your hands.
It doesn't matter how hard you pull or crank or grab with the hands - the "roundness" of a horse comes from your ability to shape the horse's energy - you guessed it - through the seat.
The seat can control the horse's tempo in a given gait.
It's not about the hands. (Did I say that already?) Regulate your horse's footfalls by either going with the horse or resisting for just a moment longer to slow the legs. You'll be amazed at how easily a horse will respond if you can be aware of your own tempo.
You can use both seat bones together at the same time, or alternate left-right, or focus mainly one just one.
Well, this took me about two years to master well enough to be able to do it at will. I'm not sure if it takes everyone that long, but it took a lot of concerted effort on my part to be able to "separate" my seat bones at the right time, in the right way. But I'm here to tell you that it can be done, and both you and your horse will be happier for it. Then your communication can be even more precise.
You can invite your horse to swing in the back by lifting your seat.
If you swing in your back, your horse will have an easier time swinging in his back. I'm not sure if "lifting your seat" is the best way to describe it, but it isn't exactly like you lighten the seat (as in, perch or hover over the top of the saddle). You actually suck your seat up into your body in such a way that you invite the horse's back to come up and forward with the energy created by the hind end. Difficult to learn initially but again, you will reap rewards once you find it.
The seat helps you maintain quieter aids.
The more developed seat is the one that can balance the rest of the body as the horse moves. People often speak of developing an "independent seat" - which means that it can "talk" to the horse without causing a disruption of the other aids. Developing a quiet and independent seat is a prerequisite for being able to turn down the strength of your hands, legs and upper body.
There is no replacement to being lunged to develop a good seat.
I hate to tell you, but this is the truth. There's a reason that the "famous" riding schools lunged their students on experienced school masters. We don't get to see much of lunging these days, but if you are lucky enough to have a horse and instructor willing to do it, jump at the chance! You should be able to develop a basic, secure seat with just one lesson a week over a six month period. It's that powerful. If you can do more, it's time well spent.
You can never finish developing your seat.
I guess it's like anything that takes a lifetime (or two) to master. You will happily celebrate each level of achievement as you develop your seat, but deep down, you'll realize especially as you become better that there is so much left for you to learn and discover.
This last point is probably the most important. Like many other things related to horses, there is no end to the levels youcan get to, especially when it comes to riding with the seat. I know I'm at a certain level of effectiveness when it comes to riding from the seat. I also know that I have a whole lot more to learn. (Can I have the second lifetime after I'm done with this one??). I've watched even Grand Prix level riders improve in their seat over the years - I don't think you ever stop learning.
Do you have anything to add to the list? Where are you in your "seat journey"?
Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the new Horse Listening Practice Sessions.
This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.
I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!
"Regardless of discipline, what would be the most significant effect a rider would want to have on her horse?
We all want our horses to improve in their athletic
development, skill acquisition and connectedness. Much of our rider development and training efforts go into working toward our show or personal goals....
But the best riders aspire to do one essential thing each and every day, regardless of goals and lesson plans: they work hard to improve their horse’s way of going.
Because proper balance and weight carriage is essential to a horse’s longevity. Each and every minute of each and every ride has the potential to contribute to your horse’s health and well-being.
Or not."
Just as with all the Horse Listening Collection Books, this book is focused on helping the rider improve for the sake of the horse. But this book goes deeper into the best training articles from the blog - horse-centered theory, strategies and ideas you can try with your own horse.
The book begins with the horse's hind end (!), considers the horse's back, moves on to rider development, and fills it all in with the fundamentals of horse riding so your horse can be:
Sometimes it is better to focus on just one or two skills than to try to fix everything all the time.
Photo Credit: J. Boesveld
We've previously considered the importance of the riding seat in all things horseback. The seat is the source of all strength, balance and looseness. Without the seat, all other aids become postures at best and completely unusable at worst. So before all else, put your effort into your seat.
However, as your seat develops, and improvement in balance allows you to become more aware of your arms, legs, torso and weight, you can begin to put more emphasis on other areas of your body.
In typical riding lessons, we often break down positional faults into bits and pieces - inside leg/outside seat bone/outside rein/watch your head tilt/dropped shoulder/collapsed hip - and the list goes on and on. It is true that as riders, we need to become as body aware as athletes in other sports that require balance and positional outlines (such as ballet, gymnastics, skating or dancing).
But instead of critiquing each movement into a multitude of positional corrections, it is possible to simplify things to get the best out of your body, in a way that is easy to remember and perhaps even easy(-ish) to do.
There are two essential upper-body skills to learn so that you can maintain an ideal balance and support your horse in his movements to the best of your ability.
1) Position Your Core To the Direction You Want To Go
Think of your belly button area as your core. If you are going straight, your core should be straight. It should also be in line with your horse's shoulders. If your horse isn't straight underneath you, you might need to correct his position with a shoulder-fore, a straighter use of the outside rein, or some other aid that will allow your horse to align his body.
When you go to turn, open your core into the turn. We often tend to point our shoulders too far to the outside, or too far to the inside, depending on the straightness of our bodies. Know your own tendency and work to counter it.
If you know you tend to point your core to the left (regardless of direction of travel), be prepared to put in the extra work to open to the right. You might also have to reduce the "openness" when travelling left, because that direction is likely easier for you to turn into. Try not to over turn in that direction.
Now the key: keep your head, shoulders, elbows and hands aligned with your body (the hands should not have a mind of their own). Instead of letting each body part do something on their own, keep them working in coordination with each other. Become "one".
What to Avoid
- try to keep your shoulders level while you open into the turn; don't tilt into the turn like a motorcycle
- try to stay "tall"; many people have a tendency to collapse through the hip area, thereby dropping their inside shoulder as they negotiate the turn
2) Loosen Through the Lower Back
The second most important skill is to be able to loosen your lower back at will. I'm not talking about being a jelly-backed rider that flip-flops even beyond the horse's movement. But most of us ride with tight, tense lower backs and that controlled looseness takes quite a bit of practice. When your back moves less than needed, you might be restricting the horse's movements without even knowing it. The bigger your horse moves, the more your lower back needs to be able to give.
As your horse moves, your lower back loosens (momentarily in stride) to allow your lower abs to come through to the front of the saddle. This happens in both the trot and canter, although there is more movement when cantering.
If you can move with your horse, you might notice that your horse takes more confident, forward-moving strides. As you develop your strength, you can even dictate stride rhythm through the movement of your seat and lower back, alternating resistance with following.
***
By focusing on just these two aspects of riding, you should be able to fix many other smaller positional problems that depend on a supple, correctly held upper body. Remember that by keeping all the "pieces" together, you can become much clearer and more balanced to the horse.
Next time you ride, keep your upper body in mind. Try these skills and let us know how it went in the comments below.
Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!
Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions.
This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.
I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!
Beautiful paperbacks with all the excellence of the blog - in your hands! Click on the image for more information.
Have you ever wished your horseback riding lessons could come with a user manual? Do you feel that you could serve your horses better as a rider if you only know how and what to do?
From the writer of the popular Horse Listening blog comes a complete collection of one of the most enjoyable and rewarding activities of all time: horseback riding.
Just about everyone and their grandmother talks about the seat in riding. Do this with your seat; do THAT with your seat. Why the fixation on the riding seat?
The "seat" in horseback riding is not limited to the area of the "derriere" that comes into contact with the saddle. Some people include much more than that - all the way from the lower abdominals and waist to above the knees.
Essentially, the seat is THE most effective aid we have to influence our horse's movements.
The balanced seat is what allows us to develop independent hands, good riding posture and loose, supple legs that can aid at a moment's notice. The seat is also the prime factor in our ability to stay on the horse during the "bobbles" that invariably happen from time to time.
The Passive Seat
In general, beginning riders are taught the passive seat. As the name implies, you simply follow the horse's movements with your seat. If the horse offers a gait, your seat matches the movement in stride and depth. The idea here is to not interfere with the horse's movements. You let the horse lead, and you follow.
Don't get the wrong idea. The passive seat is not as easy to perform as it sounds. It takes hours and hours of riding practice to develop a strong enough core and a loose, supple lower back. Then you need to and coordinate your upper legs to tighten and release as needed to make following look easy.
You know you're on the right track when you stop bouncing, or having air-time, during the canter or trot. Another good checkpoint is to see if you can let the horse's energy float right through the saddle area and up toward the neck and head. If there is no restriction of energy (i.e. the horse doesn't quit, stumble, lean, toss the head or lose rhythm), you know you are following effectively enough to NOT interfere with the movement.
Advantages:
- allows the horse to move freely, almost as if without a rider on his back
- develops confidence and trust in the horse
- gives the horse a "yes!" answer - the following feels good and is rewarding to the horse
The Restricting Seat
Sometimes, you may not want to follow the horse's movements. The restricting seat helps in achieving better uphill balance in the horse. It gives the horse a "heads up" that a transition is about to happen. It lets the horse know that he should slow the tempo or lighten the forehand.
You restrict the movement in the seat by pausing in your lower back (and maybe even the upper legs) even while the horse is still moving. In the middle of the canter stride, at the exact right time, you hold back the seat. You resist the movement, and yes, the horse will feel it right through the saddle.
Be careful to restrict diligently, over a very short period of time so that you continue to allow the flow of the energy of the movement toward the front of the horse. Too much restricting seat can result in shutting down the horse's forward impulsion, or worse, cause a stumble if the horse was not prepared correctly.
Advantages:
- this is the central component to the half-halt
- allows you to control rhythm and tempo from the middle of the horse rather than from the front
- aids in rebalancing and straightening the horse
- makes for a very powerful downward transition
The Driving Seat
Use this type of seat to ask for more from your horse - more stride, more strength, more impulsion, even more rhythm. To "drive" you use your seat in a forward motion, at the moment the inside front leg comes back (inside hind leg is off the ground and therefore able to be influenced).
It feels almost like you want to push the saddle over the horse's withers and neck. This way, you can use your seat in conjunction with your legs, which results in quieter, calmer legs that don't have to kick and demand at all times.
Advantages:
- less reliant on legs, allowing softer, more subtle leg aids
- helps to draw up the hind end of the horse, encouraging a longer hind leg stride deeper underneath the body
- aids in the development of engagement and impulsion
There are many other ways to use the seat, but these three form the basis of all other variations. Using the seat doesn't have to be for the few and far between - work with a good instructor and practice regularly, and you will be amazed at the progress you can make. The added bonus is that your horse learns to respond to the subtle changes of your seat and communication becomes invisible.
I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!
Click to learn more.
Buy the book!Horse Listening – Book 2: Forward and Round to Training Success
Stop printing off the articles! Your favorite training articles are compiled in this beautifully bound paperback book. Have everything at your fingertips - this book can be taken to the barn as a quick refresher or leisurely read at home.
Signed Author Copies available - perfect gifts!
From the book:
"Regardless of discipline, what would be the most significant effect a rider would want to have on her horse?
We all want our horses to improve in their athletic development, skill acquisition and connectedness. Much of our rider development and training efforts go into working toward our show or personal goals....
But the best riders aspire to do one essential thing each and every day, regardless of goals and lesson plans: they work hard to improve their horse’s way of going.
Because proper balance and weight carriage is essential to a horse’s longevity. Each and every minute of each and every ride has the potential to contribute to your horse’s health and well-being.
Or not."
Just as with all the Horse Listening Collection Books, this book is focused on helping the rider improve for the sake of the horse. But this book goes deeper into the best training articles from the blog - horse-centered theory, strategies and ideas you can try with your own horse.
The book begins with the horse's hind end (!), considers the horse's back, moves on to rider development, and fills it all in with the fundamentals of horse riding so your horse can be:
How many times have you caught yourself pulling on an already tight inside rein? Have you ever noticed your horse swing his neck to the inside, while you find yourself drifting out toward the rail (thank goodness for that rail, since without it, you would probably drift to oblivion!)? We've all been there and done that (and I have the T-shirt)!
The circle is used so frequently, not only in dressage, but in almost all disciplines, that we would be remiss to not include it in our "studies" about riding and training. The quotes below come from dressage sources, but you can surely find similar information in writing from any discipline.
"Every [dressage] test contains circles: large ones, small ones, some placed in difficult spots, some very easy ones, and some placed before or after a transition into the next movement. But all of them have a number of requirements:
- Circles must be round and executed exactly as stated in the test. This means the rider has to know where the "points" are. The rider must touch these points for one stride only.
- They must be ridden on one track. This means that the horse must be able to bend and have sufficient freedom of the shoulders and hips to accomodate the requested size of the circle without the hanuches falling out or the horse 'popping' his shoulder.
- The regularity of the rhythm must be the same throughout the circle, including engaggement and impulsion, while the horse stays on the bit. As a matter of fact, the horse should be in a better frame coming out of the circle than going into it."
Riding a circle is not just following the path of the circle (although that can be difficult enough) - it is more about helping the horse improve the use of his hind end, teach him about flexion and bend, and to enable the outside aids to become more effective. The aids for the circle come not only from the rein and leg aids, but even more importantly, from the seat and balance of the rider. Your shoulders and hips should be aligned with the horse's shoulders, while your weight is distributed slightly to the inside. Other things to be aware of:
- your inside seat bone is slightly more weighted than the outside, and is moving within the movement to encourage the horse to use his back.
- the outside hind is as engaged as the inside, because the outside has further to travel!
- the inside rein is softly maintaining flexion but that is all - don't let it interfere with the horse's movement.
- half-halts at every "point" of the circle help the horse to improve his balance and become more round and free-moving.
"One can say that a horse is on the aids and correctly bent on the large circle when he applies an even tension to both reins, when both hind feet tread in the tracks of the forefeet, when the crest tips over to the inside, and when the horse maintains the bend when the rider surrenders the contact with the inside rein.
One should not, however, expect the horse to maintain the bend on his own for any length of time. To keep him precisely on the line of the circle, the rider must remain extremely attentive and continuously though imperceptibly, alternate between shoulder-in and travers-like aids according to the tendency of the horse to fall in or out from the prescribed line."
They say that the greatest riders look like they are doing nothing at all. The more you ride and you begin to feel the success that comes with the refinement of the aids, the more you will know this to be true. The secret to looking like you are doing nothing is to do a lot in tiny little increments. Once you get used to the subtle movements that are required, it will feel like you are doing nothing - but in fact, your body is making constant minute adjustments to ensure that it is either following the horse or helping the horse to maintain balance.
__________________________
"Excessive bend is wrong and creates tension rather than making the horse more supple. Another common fault, especially in lateral work, is excessiv flexion. Too much bend in the head and neck prevents the horse from bending through the ribs as required, and therefore also makes it impossible for the horse to be evenly bent throughout its length. The horse's neck is 'broken' just in front of the withers.
Exaggerated bend can also result in the horse falling sideways instead of answering the rider's inside leg. This defeats the object of the exercise, which is to bend the horse."
We know we should not be pulling on that inside rein, yet we continue to do it all the time. The trick to "unlearning" the reliance on the inside rein is to take a look at the neck. Just look down! I know everyone says not to - when you look, just don't tilt your head downward, so you can maintain your balance. But take a glance and actually see where that neck is. Learn how the "cranked" neck appears from above - it looks like the neck is disconnected at the withers area. The body seems to go one way while the neck is headed toward the middle of the circle.
When you see that, lighten the inside rein. Work on using a more active inside leg, use your seat to help rebalance the horse to the outside, and take up the (very likely) loop in the outside rein. Then allow the neck to straighten (note: don't just pull on the outside rein!). Straighten the horse's body, and start the circle again and see if you can continue on the circle without pulling on the rein.
And that's all there is to the circle! 🙂
What other tips do you have for us about riding the circle?
Don’t miss a single issue of Horse Listening! If you like what you are reading, become a subscriber and receive updates when new Horse Listening articles are published! Your email address will not be used on any other distribution list.Subscribe to Horse Listening by Email
Horse Listening Book Collection - beautiful paperbacks with all the excellence of the blog - in your hands! Click on the image for more information.
[pro_ad_display_adzone id="23593"]
More Listening Corner posts:
Contact And "On The Bit": I've tried to pick out the most relevant sections for today's quotes, but please go to the original books to get a much more in-depth analysis. Enjoy!
Riding Goals Defined: At some point, you're going to find yourself wondering: why am I riding? No two answers are going to be the same, and your own answer might change as time goes on.
The Rider: Although the world around the horse has changed over the years, the horse itself remains essentially the same, and therefore the requirements of riding are essentially unchanged.
The "Art" Of Riding: . We know 'art' when we see it - the performance transforms from just plain effortless and technically correct to evoking an emotional response, moving us in the depths of our beings and reminding us why we are so enthralled by the power and magnificence of the horse.
First, there are hands and legs. When we learn to ride, we tend to guide the horse primarily through the use of our hands, then through our legs. Rein aids and leg aids reign supreme (pun intended!): left rein here, right rein there, inside leg, outside leg... you know the routine.
And without a doubt, it is essential to learn the use of hands and legs to achieve a basic sense of control of the horse - it is not always a pleasant experience to have a spirited equine expressing his enthusiasm while you hang on for dear life!
As you become more subtle in the aiding process, you will begin to discover just how powerful the seat can be.
As time goes on, however, you begin to develop a sense for the horse's balance, for the energy that moves through the body, and for the 'release' that the horse can achieve given the opportunity. You begin to develop 'feel' through your seat.
When is the horse lifting/dropping his back? When are the hind legs underneath the body? How much energy is needed to allow just enough 'forward' for the horse to reach but not so much that he will fall to the forehand? As you become more subtle in the aiding process, you will begin to discover just how powerful the seat can be in guiding the horse without disturbing and interfering in his movement.
1.Find Your Seat.
Get yourself a good instructor that knows how to teach the finer points of using the seat during riding. There are a lot of people who use their seat effectively but for one reason or another, cannot seem to be able to explain well enough to break it down into achievable skills. You must learn how to activate your seat bones, and differentiate between using the seat versus weight aids.
Getting control of the "inner" components of the seat will take time and perseverance as this is likely not a typical movement that you're used to. Look at it as a 2-year goal - one that takes thousands of repetitions to master. Lunging on a reliable, rhythmical school horse might be on the menu in order to allow you to free your lower back, hips and thighs enough to begin to feel the physical requirements of using your seat.
Know that it is extremely worthwhile to put that much effort into the skill acquisition, as everything, including your balance, revolves around an effective use of the seat.
2.Develop Effective Half-halts.
The seat is a key component to a half-halt. Without the seat, your half-halt is about as effective as a pull from your hand, or a kick from the leg. Neither aids really help the horse in rebalancing, which is the ideal result desired from the half-halt. Use your seat to keep your horse "with" you - brace your lower back to rebalance the horse's momentum and weight to the hind end.
Use your seat bones laterally to allow half-halts to effect one side only (horse leaning on one side, or drifting through a shoulder) and alternately, use diagonal half-halts (inside seat bone to outside supporting rein) to encourage better use of the hind end by the horse.
3. Free Your Seat to Free the Horse's Back.
Encourage your horse to move 'forward' - rather than use your legs to kick a horse onward, use your seat to encourage the more balanced sense of being 'forward'. In the trot, you can follow along with the horse in a more giving way through your entire seat, opening on the "up" phase of the posting trot (without actually posting). Your seat has the power to encourage the horse to "step through" with his hind legs and develop a lovely rhythmical swinging of the back that will allow for a willing and supple response to your aids.
4. Transition From the Seat.
Rather than using your hands for a downward transition, or your legs for an upward transition, use your seat as the "root" to the transition - either upward or downward. Move your seat into the next gait (even if it is a downward transition) and expect the horse to respond almost entirely off your seat aid. Use hands/legs only if absolutely necessary, after you applied the seat aid.
5. Change Directions.
Did you know that you can allow a horse to turn smoothly and in balance simply from a seat aid? Your hands work on keeping the horsestraight through the turn, and your seat works to turn the horse from his middle. Soon you will be free from "steering" the horse with your hands. Eventually, the horse will appear to read your mind because the aids will become incredibly subtle and shared only between you and your horse. The only visible result will be the lack of fuss and a total unison in movement.
6. Stop! (No Hands Needed!)
After a series of half-halts, it will only take your seat to stop the horse's legs. Simply stop moving and "halt" with your seat. Remember to keep your legs on as the horse still needs to complete the halt by bringing his legs underneath him. Your thought process could go like this: "bring your (hind) legs under, bring your legs under, bring your legs under, halt." It will work every time, guaranteed!
The above ideas are just the beginning. Use your seat to do lateral work, half-passes, flying changes and even pirouettes. The more you learn about and activate your seat, the more you will discover about the incredible power of the seat.
Finally! The Ultimate Rider-Centered Program!
Ready for something completely different? If you liked what you read here, you might be interested in the Horse Listening Practice Sessions.
This is NOT a program where you watch other people's riding lessons. Start working with your horse from Day 1.
I don't believe in putting my work behind a paywall. But there are expenses in every venture. If you really liked this article, consider tipping us! Your tip will help me keep producing more riding TIPS (pun!) with free access to everyone. With thanks for reading!
Click to learn more.
Buy the book for many more riding tips! Horse Listening – The Book:Stepping Forward to Effective Riding
Would you like to be the rider that all horses dream of?
By following simple, useful exercises, you will be able to develop a better understanding about many topics including:
This website uses cookies to improve your experience. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. Cookie settingsACCEPT
Privacy & Cookies Policy
Privacy Overview
This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience.
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.
Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website.
